YotaWerx Tuning Services and Development

Perfect example of why different options are available, because some people feel that the regular throttle option is not even close to responsive enough.

Everyone has a different opinion of what's right and what's enough, how it should drive.

 

the surging that I feel while in CC going up slight inclines: is that more pronounced with stryker+?

 

Yep! On my race car my PCV “can” is designed to drain the oil back into the pan when crankcase pressures drop. It lets light vapors like water escape though. I want to keep my oil lol! It still has the brass and baffles like a normal catch can, but the bottom connects back to under the valve cover.

 

@mZiggy I believe that Gear Lock is probably working properly. What I learned recently is that at somewhere near 2,100 rpm and less, it will downshift if you are aggressive with the throttle. Somewhere around 1500 rpm it will downshift as necessary. At greater RPMs, it does not matter, even put to the floor, it will not downshift (very nice), and when passing, it appears it will red-line and kill the engine, it will not up-shift to a gear higher than selected! This one surprised me, but now that I know, I am fine with this. I think the engineers today inject their opinions into everything too much, taking away user controls because they know better! Hate that, this is better!

Another thing that I noticed and like very much, in the city, is to use gear-lock (ECT-ON and S-mode) and leave S-mole in 5 or 6, and just drive. This does not fully support aggressive driving, as it will not downshift for throttle input (unless RPMs are low); but this tune with the SC has plenty of torque, and driving like this, the transmission short shifts thru the gears (though not excessively), and is quite impressive. The recent city driving where I tested this was a very small part of the trip, so not sure what it does for fuel economy; but suspect it will be better than driving in regular automatic, unless you are driving aggressively enough that throttle inputs cause rich AFR, as it will not downshift. But I really like this for city driving.

On the Highway, S-lock is the BOMB! I again was driving the same route with #350 in the back, and the added wind drag of having the tonnau cover stood up behind the cab; and this time with Gear Lock on, left it in 6th for majority of the highway, and only down-shifted to 5th for a few very long uphills. The truck had plenty of torque to remain in 6th and hold speed, but these hills were miles long each, and I noticed that the AFR was much richer than the most typical 14.3 to 14.5, so downshifting brought the fuel ratio back, and likely saved fuel. I do not use CC, as the surging is often, and annoying; need to find a fix for this; maybe an add on device to the throttle body? This total run was about 200+ miles, one way empty, return was loaded and tank average was 19.5. I believe the trip for the way to the destination (not loaded) read 21.8; I was wicked impressed, but did not think to take a picture. In an earlier post, same trip, same load, but using cruise and not using gear lock, my fuel economy was considerably worse.

Reminder: This truck has a mechanical fan delete, and the electric fan is off at highway speeds (and runs variable speed only as needed at other speeds); This fan at full speed is 70 amps, that totals very near 1000 watts, so with engine efficiency at about 33%, this means running this fan at 100% for 11 hours burns one gallon of gas, or uses 0.09 gallons/hour to run the fan. This translates to that: 19.5 MPG (without fan) would be reduced to 17.7 (With fan running 100%); a difference of 1.8 MPG just to run this fan at 100%. This also translates for a general sense, that if the Toyota mechanical fan happens to move an equivalent amount of air as this electric fan (seems it is likely to be considerably less, but just for the understanding), then simply deleting the mechanical fan on a stock truck would increase fuel economy by this same 1.8 MPG for daily driving. I say for daily driving, because if your current fuel economy is substantially less than 19 MPG, then the 1.8 MPG for the fan will also be less; as the fuel saved by turning off the fan, will carry the truck a shorter distance. Moral of this story, Save $10.00/ fill-up, by converting to an electric fan, and controlling it to sense the bottom hose of the radiator, and only run when needed. Return on a $1000 investment is 101 tanks of fuel, or 36,000 miles. (@ $5.50/gallon and 19mpg avg). 3 year return on investment is pretty good!

 

I can definitely revisit the cruise control surge with willing tester(s). I'd worked on it pretty extensively with @Freerdr17 but that doesn't necessarily mean that what we'd settled on with him is best for all trucks. I always assumed there'd be room for improvement there.

Regarding gearlock, that makes sense since it's technically possible to meet the conditions where it'll downshift to prevent a condition where you either stall or effectively can't drive the truck in that gear at the requested load.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-diy-dyno-video.693562/page-131#post-27496805

 

Looking for some fun to start summer? Hit me up for a tune if you're in Washington.

Have a good one!

 

there was a post a few pages back espousing the installation of an oil catch can. Are there any solid instructions for installing one?

 

Would anyone just be willing to point out on a photo which hoses need to go where?

 

For a single catch can, with a Maggie, it goes in this PCV line, on the f=drivers side. Take the hose (high-lighted Green) off at the yellow arrow, to the "In" of the CC, then add a new hose from the "Out of the CC to the nipple on the SC with the yellow arrow. Of course you can put the CC anywhere in the run of this line, it runs toward the firewall, and connects to the valve cover; you can see the other end of this hose in the picture, also high-lighted in green. The catch can must be vertical, and you must be able to remove the CC bowl on a regular interval (or otherwise drain it).

BTW: no need for the check valve on a NA or SC engine; that is only needed for a Turbo setup.

Some have mounted it to the rear bracket for the SC. That is what I also hope to do.

For a 2nd CC, it goes on the vent line on the passenger side, but i do not have a picture for that one.

Note that an over-full CC, from lack of draining it often enough, is WAY Worse than not having one at all. Please monitor your CC every 1-2 K miles, until you learn how often it needs emptying, which may need emptying more often in cold climates. I suggest not letting it ever get much more than 1/2 full; 3/4 full is possibly too high. You do not want to go over a bump or stop fast and have a stream of oil get sucked into the intake.

 

Follow the instructions @Pinchaser posted, they are spot on. Here's a picture of mine. I used the SC bracket and bent the bracket that came with the CC to make it fit.

 

I may have missed it somewhere, but if we upgrade to an AGM battery at some point AFTER purchasing a YW tune, do you guys offer that file adjustment for the voltage regulator or what have you? What's the cost for that?

My battery is starting to seep around the top and even though it's not showing signs of failing yet, we all know it will before too long...

 

We do support AGM settings for our tunes, and tune adjustment for tune files due to customer vehicle modification on what could be called "minor" adjustment is $10 for the updated tune pack.

It's tune updates that we make to our tunes and publish that are made available to previous customers for free. So for example, VFTuner is supposed to be publishing EROM 1.2 soon-ish (which I know doesn't mean anything to the average person reading this), but additional tuning tools are supposed to be included with that. Any update that we make and publish for Stryker can be obtained for free by existing Stryker tune customers.

Charging for tune modifications is effectively a representation of our time spent preparing and sending off the appropriate updated tune(s), similar to how we have an hourly rate for the same purpose for local customers we support.

 

That's more than fair and super reasonable. Thank you.

 

I’d be happy to help with this if others are also interested. Super minor issue in the grand scheme of things, but I have experienced it.

 

@Pinchaser @Matt Sierra

What speed does it happen at? Does it happen when not using CC, or only in CC? Both regular and Adaptive, or only one?

 

I'm also getting faint surging while using regular cruise control. Don't know about adaptive as mine is disabled at the moment because of a camera alignment issue after a windshield replacement...

 

I’ve only experienced it with 80+ mph interstate driving. Happens in both adaptive and regular, haven’t encountered it outside of CC.

 

80mph in a MT is like 2500 rpm or so right?

 

I'm also seeing it at 70-75 MPH. For me on 33's is about 2200-2300 RPM