Crashnburn80's 1st Gen TRD Double Cab Build

Is the first gen like my '05? If so, the parking brake tension is adjusted underneath the cupholders, just two wrenches gets it done. Nice to have faith in the brake. I need to do my Tundra too, it's useless right now.

 

Sounds like a fairly positive dealership experience. Many folk on here are always quick to trash them.

 

Is the return AC line insulated on the 1st gen? I remember my T100 was not and adding it helped a lot.

 

Honestly haven’t looked at it on this truck. Anything with drums though I’m happy to pay for. Toyota stated shoes were adjusted.

I’ve usually had a positive experience at mine. Yes it does cost more. The local Toyota service department is so clean and organized enough it looks like they could be building rockets. I wish I took a photo of the Jeep service area customers were not supposed to see so you could see the extreme comparison.

That is great info! I’ll take a look!

 

If our 04s are anything like my 98 you can adjust the parking brake tension using a couple of wrenches on two nuts which are along in the inside of the frame rail just underneath the driver's door.

As for the AC my 04 doesn't blow particularly cold either and had a bit of a struggle clearing all of the condensation on the inside of the windshield during the winter precipitations.

I was going to bring it to an AC shop for at least a diagnosis, eg is it leaking. If not then I might attempt the recharge per Scotty Kilmer's video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HCSsv3uYfM

 

Dam that's a clean 1st gen! I used to have one but rolled it off a bridge in a sleet storm

 

I adjusted the dual nuts under the cab on my 2003 and the parking brake still never grabbed enough to make me feel like it would actually save me in an emergency stop… drums were adjusted and checked… some things like this are worth paying for to have done and not worry about it.

 

Speaking of diagnosing/fixing.. I think I finally found the popping in the front end of the 2nd gen… I have new OEM sway bar links to install.

 

Yikes. Hope everyone was ok.

Parking brake grabs hard now. Truck definitely will not budge with it engaged even under power. Service was something like $100. Well worth it to me.

Really? I mean nearly everything else was replaced but hadn’t occurred to me to be an end link.

 

hopefully this is it. I’ve had the sway bar off for about a month and need a few more ditches/loading ramps to flex out to fully confirm my assumption before installing the expensive OEM links.

 

Which line is this Low port or High port?

 

Just went through the thread.

Too cool OP

 

Neither were insulted on the T100, I used @BamZipPow instructions over on toyotanation at the time https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/t100-air-conditioning.305103/post-10002826

But you want to insulate the cold line(s) so they retain cold while the warm line(s) should shed heat

 

Swapped the plug wires today. Replaced the 210k OEM Sumitomo wires with made in Japan NGK wires. NGKs are a longtime favorite for classic Toyotas offering excellent quality at a reasonable price.

NGK part number for the 3.4 is RC-TE66


Since the 3.4 uses 3 coils with wasted spark, there are only 3 plug wires. I suggest replacing one wire at a time to make routing easiest.


My OEM wires were brittle and had the clips break in removal. Interestingly the new wires made no difference in the startup time. Not bad for nearly 20 years old and 210k miles on the original wires.

I’ve used NGK wires on my other 22RE Toyotas and they have been perfect. On this set the #3 wire was slightly long compared to OEM. I’d still buy them again, but was a little surprised.

Next thing to check for quicker startup would be fuel filter. It turns over 1-2 times more than I feel it should periodically. According to the local Toyota techs, they never change the fuel filter as it is a lifetime part, even at 200k miles. I’m betting that has more to do with what could go wrong on the old fuel lines though in taking it apart.

 

I'm loving the attention to detail here and the OEM parts.

Those wires should have a lifetime warranty on them too, depending on where you bought them. I put them on around 140k miles and at my last spark plug change around 265k I had them replaced because the boot that seals to the valve cover was starting to separate.

I did my fuel filter around 180k miles or so I believe. I don't think I noticed much of a change in startup time. It was hard to say if it was a difference or if I wanted to feel like there was a difference after doing the fuel filter. I'd probably still change it at your mileage just to be safe. 292k miles on mine currently and it starts right up.

 

Replaced the end links for the rear sway bar on the wife’s Pilot a couple of weeks ago….they were making a horrendous squeaking/groaning sound. Not a peep now. Took me a few weeks to track the noise down.

 

The refreshed cold AC was nice to come back to after a 20 mile bike ride with temps in the mid-upper 80s. I can’t say enough good things about the Ride 88 bike racks either. I thought the hanger bar mount would bother me more than it does, the function easily outweighs the look.

 

Replaced the driver side seatbelt assembly today. The original was badly frayed and no longer retracted without help. While it still “worked”, it is one of those things you interact with every time you drive and to me it was worth replacing to work properly.

OEM part number for 03-04 Double cab left front in Oak color: 73220-04151-E0
(Yes 03-04 have a different PN than <02, I suspect due to the electrical connector)


Turns out many dealers will not ship this part as it is deemed hazardous due to the explosive charge, or will charge you a ridiculous fee. I hunted around on https://parts.toyota.com/ for a local dealer that had the best price so I could pickup in person.
^The site allows you to compare online prices at dealers near you.

Instructions with torque specs are included in the box.



1) Disconnect the battery. Seat belts have an explosive charge in them to recoil in an accident. You want the power to be off.
2) Remove the trim panel by first removing both lower door sills (which cover the base of the trim panel. The trim panel pulls straight off. I’m always paranoid on old plastic parts of breaking clips, but all remained intact.


3) The seatbelt assembly has 4 15mm bolts holding it in place, 2 on the assembly, one at the belt adjustment on the B-pillar and one at the end of the belt on the floor.

4) The electrical connector is removed by pulling the black collar back like so. There is one additional wiring harness strap to disconnect and the assembly is free.


Old vs new. I should have not stood in the sunlight, the new buckle is chrome like the old.


Install is just the reverse. Per the instructions, the torque specs are 32 ft-lbs on all bolts except the smaller bolt just above the roller assembly at 27 ft-lbs. *Converted torque specs, OEM is in Nm and kgfcm.

After you’re finished, reconnect the battery, reset the clock and radio presets. And enjoy a properly functioning seat belt.

Doesn’t look like much, but so nice when things function like they are supposed to.


Only noticeable sign it has been replaced.

 

What do the explosive charges do? I'm assuming they work differently than the inertial locks (the ones that kick in and lock the belts if they extract too quickly, like under sudden braking or when you're reaching for a chili dog at the Weinershnitzel drive-thru window).

 

I believe they are tied to the airbag sensor and tighten the belt in the event of a crash. I may be wrong on how they are triggered. But I know they tighten the belt.