Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

The best internet doctors that I have seen hang out here.

 

No doubt! Really impressed by that.

 

I spoke with Marc from Frankenstein Motorworks who knows the 2GR series of motors in and out. The 2GR-FKS should not have any problems with what the Magnuson Supercharger puts out. No real increase in risk to its reliability.

 

Other than @Murd3rd, anyone experienced oil leaks like the one on the image below?

I get one drop of oil on the ground after every drive I've done (2 so far). It looks like the oil is coming from the oil filter housing. But if you look closely, there is some oil by the oil cooler spacer too. Wondering if that will stop after things settle a bit.

Torque wrench was used for every nut, bolt, oil filter housing, etc.

 

I could see how that particular location could be an issue - I was worried about it after my install - and I used the torque wrench as prescribed. If you used the Loctite as required I would simply recommend using a hand wrench to add additional tightening where you can feel it tighten. Likely a very small amount of additional love required to fix that problem. Feel is a key factor when it comes to adding just a little more tightening - especially once you have it torqued to spec.

 

I did a bit more tightening where I could without taking anything off. However, if the problem is coming from the oil cooler spacer, that will require draining the oil and coolant, taking the fan out and recheck those bolts since 2 out of the 3 bolts from the spacer are covered by the oil cooler.

The other thought is that if it’s mainly leaking out of the oil filter housing (maybe o-ring didn’t set properly), I would basically need to do another oil change.

 

When you remove the oil filter housing to change the filter you only lose what oil is in the housing...I didn't even change the oil in my truck when I added the s/c...because it had just been changed. I just added the 1/4-1/2 quart that I drained out of the housing...I did change the filter since I pulled it, but I also keep a stock of filters since my girlfriend's RAV4 uses the same filters.

you need to take some carb cleaner and clean the whole area really well then run the truck for a few mins to get it to operating temp and watch that area and look to see if you can see where it's seeping from. Also, kill the engine and do the same thing if you can't tell while it's running.

 

@aleja_333 Mine leaked in the same spot after install.

I went back and checked/re-tightened what bolts I could and it hasn’t leaked since.

Clean it well and keep an eye on it.

 

Roger! Interesting that the area is pretty common for leaking. I’ll run the truck tonight to see if I can see where exactly is sipping through.

 

You can remove the fan and plastic guard, and get enough access. No need to drain the coolant, with leaving the radiator in place, and no need to remove the coolant lines from the Oil Cooler.

Best of luck.

 

Go ahead and run it long enough the gasket is heat/lubricant saturated/sealed (30 minute drive). Give the bolts/nuts you can access pre heat-treatment a snug and again after heat treatment. Wipe surfaces before and check after. Very likely this will seal gasket and stop issue.

 

After snugging the bolts spray it down with brake cleaner to remove oil residue.

 

After sitting underneath the truck last night for about 20 minutes, I saw the oil sipping through a few different spots.




1. Oil filter canister: There's a small burping of oil out of the oil filter canister. Maybe a damaged o-ring?
2. Oil cooler bolt: There was a bit of oil coming out of one of the bolt threads on the oil cooler. This is an interesting one because those bolts never got removed during the SC install.
3. Oil cooler spacer: Another tiny bit coming out of the spacer.

I tighten the bolts on locations 2 and 3 while the truck was a bit warm running and I didn't see any oil coming out of those locations this morning. Still keeping an eye on it for the next few rides.

Number 1, I might have to replace the filter along with a new o-ring as I think the canister is plenty tight right now. Any more tight and I probably tear the o-ring even more.

Another eventful morning getting into work as I got a CEL when I arrive. I got two codes P0174 and P117B. Digging into what those are, one possible culprit is an air leak. Looked on the engine bay for about 30 seconds and found the hose coming out of the air intake completely out. Clamp seemed a bit loose so put the hose back and secured it with a new more robust clamp.

 

One thing to note, that vacuum line never sees boost, so there's no reason it would have fallen (or popped) off unless it was barely reinstalled or just not reinstalled at all. That port is pre-throttle body, so it only ever sees ambient pressure or vacuum, that's it.

 

I had a similar problem. Contacted Magnuson and they said they had issues with the spacer on some kits. Sent out a new one and still had leak. My issue was that I had a small “gouge” on the oil filter housing. I probably did some damage on initial install. I removed housing, used fine grit sandpaper and flat block. Too deep of a gouge to sand smooth again. My fix was to use a gasket maker, I think it was called Gascacinch. It basically filled in the void, installed new gaskets with it torques to specs and haven’t had a leak in 5000 miles.

 

I thought of the possibility of not being installed at all but I drove for two days with no CEL. That tells me it was on and popped off at some point triggering the CEL.

 

Not necessarily. The computer goes through cycles of running checks. You can have a failed sensor even and it could possibly not throw a code for days. It just depends on when in the diagnostic cycle that sensor failed and how long\often you drove the vehicle. That's why you can't clear codes and immediately get an OBDII scan for like a state inspection or something, it literally will say "not ready". The ECU needs time to go through it's full diagnostic. Since you flashed a tune and wiped the logged data then it resets everything. And unless you drove somewhere around 100miles or so straight without cutting the ignition off then the computer couldn't have completed all of its diagnostic scans in the allotted time. A bunch of short trips back to back only lengthens this process.

Ex: I had a Corolla that constantly threw a code for the EVAP system. But I would just clear it with my Bluetooth dongle and then it wouldn't be back for another week or so. There's no state insp or emissions where I live so I didn't care, but that just goes to show that the system can't always detect a fault immediately and give the code within milliseconds each time. It needs time to run diagnostics and determine that there is a fault then throw a code.

 

With regard to the O-ring on the oil filter, the O-ring seal has nothing to do with how tight the body is torqued; thread it together and leave it loose and not even bottomed out, and the O-ring is still within spec. to provide a seal. The O-ring is not squeezed by tightening the filter body, it simply seals by being confined in its groove, and lightly squeezed against the sidewall of the receiver. Never over tighten the filer body, or the drain cover; it simply needs to be snug enough to prevent it loosening itself.

Very likely dirty or damaged O-ring for that leak. Best of luck!

EDIT: Even a piece of rag lint can make an O-ring leak.

In case this is useful:
- Take care to not stretch the O-ring when placing it into groove, and on this note, slightly better to install the new O-rings immediately following disassembly, not wait till ready for assembly; this provides a little time for them to shrink back to size, before threading in. A stretched O-ring is Prone to getting pinched.
- Always better to lube the O-ring and the receiver, before assembling (fresh oil is good); without lube it is way more likely to get pinched during assembly, as it must slide along inside the receiver, for the length of the threads, till it reaches its final position.

 

Anyone look at the AFe cai to go with the sc? I'm thinking about more airflow.