Long Travel BS Thread

I'm sure on the highway it probably rides like a mid travel setup without a sway bar correct?

 

I don’t remember much difference in handling really. Maybe a little better since it’s wider. I was totally fine driving anywhere with LT, never stopped me from going anywhere and it used to be my daily driver until I back halved it.

 

Got any pics of the truck with the kit on it?

 

Before I linked it and had a bunch of heavy crap-


best head on pic I have-


This thread will tell you a lot more about the kit-

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-now-adding-long-travel-and-934-cv’s.626274/

 

Add limit straps and have your shocks tuned.
You will be surprised how much more you get can out of the setups with tuning alone. The limit straps will help with the shock harsh unloading. This is will be your best bang for your buck scenario.

For +2 vs 3.5 ride quality, I would still land back on shock tuning. There is a little more travel to work with, but ride quality will not come from adding travel alone. Tune tune tune.

They all can be ran without bypasses, but my opinion for the 3rd question still stands at tuning.

Oem geometry, +2, +3.5 will all have shock pistons at some point in the travel at ride height. Let’s say they’re all in the middle, all valved the same generic way. What you feel in the truck will mostly be the same for a majority of the terrain. Yeah the other kits have more usable travel for bigger hits, but if it’s not tuned they don’t quite seem like the dream ride everybody chalks LT to be.

 

I agree about the shock tuning 100%
I dont have dscs' on my current fox 2.5s so every adjustment would require dissasembly. At that point if im going to upgrade to a dsc setup id rather just go up alltogether.

Last question. If I decide to get the axle
Shafts to build myself and save 600$, do I HAVE to use oem cv joints?

 

I mostly agree with @RonRon23 on this. There are many unknown variables on your current setup but I'm guessing you've got the truck sitting too high at ride height and are very limited on down travel which is why you're experiencing the harsh top out. You can fix this with proper vehicle setup but you'll likely loose a bit of lift in the process.

LT kits (2+ or 3.5+" kits) are great and basically resolve this but it's a lot of cost for minimal returns if you're not trying to hit the rough terrain. The extra shock/wheel travel allows you to obtain the desired ride height and keep the proper amount of down travel for good ride quality. Overall the key is shock valving and setup though.

To answer the third question, you can run these setups without but you're loosing a lot of performance if you do. A well tuned MT setup will out perform a poorly tuned LT kit so don't invest in one or the other without at least a baseline valve code, which most reputable LT companies have already done.

 

I should also note that I’m not doing any high speed stuff like the desert guys. I doubt I go over 35 “offroad” around here. Whatever generic off the shelf tuning JD specifies is fine for me. My rear coilovers have a basic bitch Accutune adventure tune whatever that is. I don’t think valving is as picky for crawling or I just don’t care right now. I noticed a huge difference from increased travel. That’s more important to me right now. If we went fast, tuning would be a much bigger priority I’d imagine.

 

JD has a spec'd valve code on the shocks they sell. I agree that valving isn't as big of a concern when crawling but what you've got isn't "standard."

 

mine’s pretty much stock lol





if you ask State Farm

 

Great advice for sure! Im definately more interested in a truck that can perform instead of looking as though it could. I love a lifted truck but most of the true LT trucks I dool over are maybe an inch over stock and most of the time stock height in rear from SUA.

For probably half of a LT kit I could get limit straps, dsc coilovers, and a better UCA than my current JBAs. And not have to worry about axles at all. And still afford some hammer hangers for the rear.

Lots to think about, thanks everyone for the sound advice!

 

I figure I could probably get 1500$ for my current JBAs and fox 2.5 rr so that would at least put a dent in it.

 

So at almost 190k miles I need to replace my wheel bearings, I’m about to gusset my spindles so it’s the perfect timing to do it. I love Moog parts when replacing/upgrading from stock parts, however from everyone’s point of view that actually beats the hell out of their vehicles; is OE the best route or a different company? I’ve seen some people say the aftermarket hasn’t been able to come close to what OE is for our wheel bearings but I’m not sure if that’s the consensus or not.

 

I’ve had good luck with these. They use a koyo bearing which I believe is oem

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1619364842...X9iNZ90QPi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

There's a guy on here that does bearings, if he still does them. Let me try to dig up that thread.
EDIT: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-6-lug-2wd.537080/

but honestly, you could always buy two sets of the moog and then you can always swap out since IIRC they have a lifetime warranty. Not sure if it still applies to offroad abuse though.

 

That’s who’s I used when I switched to the +4. So far so good.

 

I got a set to swap on to my truck with gusseted spindles. Just been lazy and the truck sits till I can get out.

 

2yrs strong using his on my truck as well

 

Interesting that he used NSK bearings, not too familiar with them. I’m good on pressing them and installing them though, just looking for which brand is best that everyone is using.

 

Nsk is one of the top bearing manufacturers in the world. They were one of 2 manufactures used as standards in some of my engineering books