PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Run whats recommended. 5w-20 Using less than a quart over 3500mi is nothing and normal.

 

I'm actually switching to 5W30 next oil change; Can't 5W20 high mileage in stores, and as stated above I don't want to try ordering it online again...

 

Why do you feel the need for high mileage? 160k is not high miles in the scheme of these trucks, and high mileage oil should really only be used in the case you are leaking out a worn out seal in which the high mileage oil additives help to soften up and slightly swell the seals on stuff like the crank to help with any leaking there.

 

A few people on here told me I should be using high mileage...?

 

Unless you are bad about changing oil at regular proper length intervals (where sludge could be a problem and the extra detergents of the high mileage oil helps clean) or you have leaks caused by worn seals. You dont need high mileage oil.

Also, unless you are in the COLD north no reason to run outside of whats recommended weight wise from the cap / manual of your vehicle.

 

I guess I'll do 5W20 then; @Plain Jane Taco said I shouldn't be running anything less than 5W30 though...?

 

What does your manual say?

 

The manual says 0W20 or 5W20, just like the filler cap; I was informed, also by @Plain Jane Taco, that the recommended oil in the 2TR-FE 2.7L prior to 2010 was 5W30 and that the only reason Toyota changed the recommendation had to do with CAFE standards.

 

That is likely correct. Needless to say 5w-30 is not going to hurt, but neither is 5w-20. But there is no point to run 10w-30 not when 5w-30 / 5w-20 is available

 

And I'm due for an oil change sometime in August; I'm going to upstate New York for a huge car show in two weeks and I'm gonna hit 154K while I'm up there, then I'm going to California to see family I haven't seen in 2014, and my truck will sit for a week while I'm in California. I bought 5W30 high mileage after seeing it on sale at AutoZone so I will run that, and then my truck hits 160K I'll go to either regular (not high mileage formula) full synthetic 5W30 or possibly 5W20. My mechanic flushed and changed my diff fluid in the summer of 2019 when I hit 100K, and it was a synthetic diff fluid that he said would last me 60K miles, so that's obviously getting done sometime before the end of winter 2022-2023.

 

Okay, well 0W20 seems kind of worthless compared to 5W20 or 5W30...

 

0w-20 offers better cold start protection vs 5w-20 and offers the same warmed up engine protection as each other. No reason to not run 0w-20 vs 5w-20 if its the same price and availability.

And when I say cold start, anything thats not engine up to temp is a cold start, even at 100*F a 0w oil is thicker than a 30w oil at 200*F.

 

While I do respect @nd4spdbh opinion.
As he definitely knows a lot more than I do.

I can’t say I’d worry much about 5/20 vs 5/30. Mostly because the early 2nd Gen trucks with the 2.7 came with and was recommended to use 5/30.

Sure 5/20 is likely better. But to be worried? No, don’t sweat it.

These engines are more tolerant friendly to a wider range of oil viscosities than others. Be happy your engine is still “dumb”. Those 0/16 engines are smart and can refuse to allow timing to occur appropriately if a thick oil is used.


Seriously, it is fast approaching that we will no longer be able to pour in run of the mill oil and continue on long enough to get home, or the job done. This is getting ridiculous.

 

Yeah agreed, either one will be fine, just more of why jump off the cliff when someone says jump, especially with high mileage formulations.

And big time to your last statement... i look at the tech needed and to keep a vehicle running down the road and im over here like... shit, my 2013 needs to last me for the next 50 yrs till im 80!

 

Are we doing this again?

You overthink things Charlie. No one told you that you had to run a HM oil. It was only a suggested option. HM oils tend to have a little heavier base stocks and additional detergents to help keep older engines clean. That's the main benefits for an older engine and why I would and do use them.

All oils have seal conditioners. But HM oils tend to have a little extra formulated in. That will be of little benefit for you because modern Toyota engines are sealed with neoprene gaskets/oil rings and use FIPG as a sealing barrier. The conditioners have little effect on those. They're really meant more for natural rubber and cork gaskets.....which few engines use these days. So no harm will come to you by using a HM oil.

As for the weight? Absolutely no harm will be done by using a 5w/10w30 oil. And the 10w30 will flow all the way down to -30° at startup. I mostly use 10w30 because that weight tends to have less viscosity modifiers than 5w30. But that's for another discussion.

You have an engine that is burning some oil. Whether it's an excessive amount is a bit subjective because you're in that gray area.....1 quart every 3500....meh, not good, not terrible either.

I do believe you will find that stepping back to a 0w/5w20 will result in a higher oil consumption vs a heavier weight.

As for those who may believe that a heavier oil will harm and engine recommending 0w20......remember, 0w20 at startup is considerably more viscous than a 5w30 is an operating temperature. So if that's the case, you are harming your engine every time you start it and for the 1st several miles of driving.

 

I don’t think me or my truck will be around for 50 more years.
Let’s just say, this ol’ boy ain’t climbing mountains any more.
I’ll take an airplane and meet you guys on the other side

 

Thanks for your input, Bill; I have Aspergers and will always overthink things, especially a truck I've had since new that means the world to me. This time it's not that I was overthinking it, but rather that I've got two different people telling me two different things about what oil I should use; Also, should I keep using the high mileage formula, or normal full synthetic?

 

OEM radiator cap from dealer vs the one from Amazon...

 

I also replaced the cabin air filter and air intake filter; The air filter under the hood was not bad, but the cabin filter definitely needed to be replaced!