PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

This is what the valvetrain of a 12 year old Yaris 1NZ engine looks like having been fed Valvoline 10w30 High Mileage Maxlife synthetic for the last 4.5 years. Flawless and consumes zero oil. Is that because of the oil I've been using? Can't say. All modern oil is pretty good. But it's obviously not hurt it.



Engines don't have souls or brains. They don't know or care what oil is in them.....the 2.7 especially. All I can tell you is....if it were mine, I would continue to use 5w or 10w30 in a high mileage formula. They're no more expensive than non high mileage flavors....and if they are, you're buying it at the wrong place.

Peace.....I'm out

 

Apparently you're one of the few on this forum that got this memo. Good luck convincing the other 99%.

 

Oil discussions are up there with politics and religion. Should be avoided at all costs.

Frankly, most oil threads are filled with ancient, outdated horseshit passed down by fathers, grandfathers and mechanics over 60 that almost never apply to modern engines and lubricants.

 

Thanks, Bill; I agree with your advice, and I am going down to 5W30 high mileage to see see how she runs.

Also, I wish I knew why my truck was burning oil, because I've been taking really good care of it, and I have heard that switching back to conventional after running synthetic is a bad idea.

 

It's funny you mention that; My old mechanic falls into the "outdated horseshit" category. He would always write the reminder sticker for 3,000 miles instead of 5,000 miles. He was in his late 50s the last time I saw him, and another thing about him that pissed me off is whenever I talked about tires, he'd tried to push converting them from air to nitrogen. I didn't want or need nitrogen in my tires.

 

Absolute horseshit. You can alternate from conventional to synthetic all you want. Once again......old wives tales.

And you aren't "going down" using the 5w30. Both oils are 30 weights at operating temperature. The 5w will be slightly less viscous at cold startup......a difference that can only be measured once you get into air temps in the -20° F range.

 

My 4.0 has had 5-20, 5-30, and 10-30 run in it.
Not always by choice. But that’s what was poured in it.
I sure wasn’t about to drain it and buy more oil to pour in it.

Who am I kidding, I don’t even change the oil in my truck myself.
I’m still able to get it done for under $35.
I’m more than happy to pay for that convenience, no oil or filter to deal with.
I mean, I’m the guy that forgot to take the plug out of the oil drain pan and dump 5 quarts of used motor oil right in the middle of the driveway

 

The only thing that really drives me nuts is that I don't know why my damn truck is burning oil; How many miles on your daughter's Yaris and it isn't burning/using oil?

 

You can’t worry about it. At this point, it will be more expensive to find out why, than to just add oil.
It’s likely internal, as you’ve done everything externally to “fix it”


It will all be alright buddy. Add oil and drive on

 

He recommended 3k because $$. He also recommended nitrogen because $$.

The instant oil change industry "established" the 3k interval during the early to mid 70s as they began to become popular. People bit on to that like kids do candy on Halloween. It became engrained in people DNA. It will never die.

Manufacturers did not recommend this. My '86 Mazda B2000 had a 7500 OCI.

 

I can't do oil threads these days. I'm out.

Peace

 

If the owner's manual said to do it every 7,500 I would do it every 7,500; My owner's manual says every 5K so I do it every 5K. There was a brief period of time from about 90K to 115K where went over 6,500 between oil changes, and it was at about 115K or 120K when it first came up a quart low.

 

It don’t bother me.
I’m like a toddler, you can tell not to do it, while I’m standing there pouring in the “wrong” oil.

 

When I read & hear some of the outdated shit that gets spewed in the automotive, aerospace, marine, motorcycle, etc. world coming from supposed "experts" (a lot of them self proclaimed), the reality is they were "experts" in a earlier version of the world that no longer exists.

 

So now motor oil is a topic I should avoid at Thanksgiving dinner?!?!

 

Charlie.....my final comment. If you are, in fact, burning oil but the vehicle is otherwise running well.....save some coin and get some 5w30 synthetic SuperTech (Walmart), Kirkland (Costco), Harvest King, Amazon Bascis or Meijer brands. They are all the same oil made by Warren with a different label slapped on. Warren makes a fine product. If you see a HM version.....snag it. Won't hurt a thing.

I'm out for real this time.

 

Thanks, Bill!



Will it perform any better than the Mobil 1 I'm currently running though?!?!

 

How did I know that was a Goldwing without seeing the screen in the last pic?!?! Sweet bike! My uncle has a 2000 Honda; I forget whether it's a Goldwing or a Valkyrie, but I know it has a 6-cylinder engine and looks like a couch on wheels. I believe that it's a Valkyrie. Did you recently get your motorcycle license, or have you had it for a while?

 

I've been Licensed since 2016, I had a Honda Sabre 750 as my first bike and I had a 2009 Harley RoadKing. First bike I rode though was an 04 Goldwing since that's what my dad had around the house to teach me on haha.

 

TW "oil gurus" after reading the first couple sentences of your post...