Ontario BS Thread

10-4 that backs my thought about great load. The bushing should be fine I guess too. Gave er a little grease on assembly so should be fine untill it gets oil splash.

 

You asked a cunt for a cunty opinion...


I miss @Joe23

 

With mine, hammering via the notches didn't work. Hammer + kevlar rope didn't work. A 2-ft long pry bar against the diff housing popped the CV joint free from the circlip, then hammering via the notches moved it the rest of the way. My truck is a year older than yours.

Safe to drive 10 minutes to your nearest CT/Napa/PartSource for gear oil, yes. You can also top it up with engine oil in a pinch: 30 weight engine oil is similar to 80 weight gear oil at operating temps. Just drain and refill with proper GL5 soon.

 

U bolts turned out to be just too long. Stock are too short. Guess the stock now are "temporary" spacers now.

 

Just cut the long ones after setting them up, that’s how we all do

 

Yes most U-bolts are supplied long and trimmed after install. However, I think the threads on @somebody's U-bolts didn't extend far enough.

 

That I expected, however there are a bit too long still (they came with the 6112s that were shipped with 2"blocks). After screwing around, I went back to the stock ones as a better temporary solution.

 

Sounds like a good excuse to order a U-bolt flip kit with upgraded bumpstops...
https://archivegarage.com/explore-archive/ols/products/stealth-toyota-u-bolt-flip

 

It is. Might see if there's some at the parts store tomorrow. Just being cheap.

 

Who?

 

Fuckin send it bud

 

>he's one of our most knowledgeable guys
>says he's not
>feeds us info like "you can use your engine oil cap on the block if you remove the neck/if it breaks off" and w30 oil is similar to w80.
>helps start a 2nd gen after it flips over
>no really ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ no idea


Stay humble our walking encyclopedia...

 

I can say from experience that a TRD OR can easily drive over that little bump on the end and not notice it...

 

Apparently at my next service I need a spark plug replacement.
$ 540.00 ???

I'm guessing it's a major PITA to replace the plugs, but for that money I might give it a try myself [fires up interwebz search engine]

 

The plugs are $30 apiece at the dealer, so $200 of the $540 are parts. Then an hour or so for the labor. Rest is a profit center for the dealer.

Best price on the plugs if you buy it online is $17 apiece: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5706984&pt=7212&jsn=5342

 

Passenger side super easy, just strap the top of airbox to the hood and go for it. driver side is a bit more annoying, but if you remove L shape metal bracket it's much easier. Took me about 2 hours to get it done, with beer break.

 

Time for some toe and go!

 

Or leave it and let it do some self clearancing

 

Yeah. Oem plugs ran me like $200.
Labour is a bastard to reach the driverside plugs. Get yourself a 10" long 1/2" extension ..or two

Actually... just grab 2 of the longest extension you can find. And get a flexy joint bit while you're at it