Oil Change evry 10,000 miles???

Especially the people who say “every 10,000 miles per the manual’ aren’t reading it. The manual says every 10,000 miles OR 12 months.

OP I had the dealer do the 10k oil change at the 5k service, did it early due to engine break in period and working from home not driving as much. It’s up to you.

Now que the “these engines don’t have a break in period” guys for fun.

 

Oil life monitor? Really? Please share how that operates. Thanks!

 

Won't say that.

What I will point out is that the previous 'standard' regarding break in was that it had to be on dino oil, and you could only switch to syn after whatever you felt the break in period was.

Then one day Mercedes and Corvettes started coming from the factory filled with syn.

Now most everything comes filled with syn.

What happened? New things were learned, based on actual 'measured' experiences, not 'feel good' thinking or what dad taught us as teens. Not that dad was wrong back then, but things change. Production processes became more accurate, things fit better, things wear less.

 

Lol, what about the timing cover leak? What about the rear diff howl? What about the plastic Y coolant pipe? They certainly don’t design for longest possible life. Your claims would be more accurate if this were only a land cruiser forum.

 

Yep everything’s better. However even today every new engine, transmission, drive train will be broken in regardless of synthetic oil. Synthetic oil doesn’t change the fact it just reduces initial wear.
Here’s what Toyota says regarding towing:

Is that a “Break-In Schedule” heading at the top? Why, yes it is.

 

Personally I'm fine with 10k oil changes but I do regularly check the level and color of the oil. If it gets low or starts turning darker faster than expected it's time to change.

 

I can ‘splain. It shows you mileage since the last monitor reset, divided by 10,000, as a percentage.

 

I honestly don't know what I find more pathetic. The fact that yet another oil thread is 5 pages long and counting, or the fact that I'm reading through it.

 

LOL. Of course they don’t get everything right 100% of the time. Your cherry picking of a few items out of literally tens of thousands of components doesn’t really carry much weight. And, is a bit of an apples to oranges comparison.

Years of experience with oils and internal combustion engines and all the knowledge gained from that, in a general and specific sense, means they’re less likely to whiff when it comes to an oil change interval.

You point out a couple times they messed up. Things that have now shown themselves to be issues. Well, you know what, there’s a whole lot of proof now from years of long interval oil changes to show that they didn’t mess this one up. If this longer oil change issue was dangerous we would already know about it and the interval would have been changed.

Feel free to continue to waste money and resources by shortening your interval if that gives you the warm fuzzies. I’m happy to have some faith in Toyota but back it up with Blackstone analysis.

 

Of course not. It’s just a dumb computer doing a calculation.

 

$50 more per year is wasting money? You overpaid for those tires and wheels waaay more than that, lol.

 

I do 5-6k intervals

 

All my bikes had the jetting and exhaust done before the first oil change,...

 

You mean the fact that once our engines are all sabotaged by these 10,000 mile intervals, and we can’t use our trucks to escape, the lizard people are going to invade?

I just….I can’t help myself.

 

No need to be calling me names.

I grew up on air cooled VW engines.... 2500-3k oil changes... there is no filter on them. In those times oil was cheap insurance.
In todays world, with modern synthetics and driving diesels with 15-16 qt capacities there is no such thing as cheap oil changes anymore. I installed fumotos on the diesel fleet and learned that while Ford would like to tell you 10k intervals, that the fuel dilution at 5k was about the limit, by 10k they actually gained volume due to the fuel dilution. So I became more diligent. Another aspect of the F350 I won't miss.

I did a 1k change on my new Tacoma because I wanted to look at the filter and see what kind of debris was left in the case from the factory. I had a couple of small pieces of polymer gasket material and each leaf of the filter had some metallic sparkle to it... nothing crazy, just typical of what I've seen in every filter I've ever inspected on a new engine or a rebuild. I put a fumoto on the Taco out of habit. I'll pull a sample at 5k and send it in, my expectations are that it will be fine and if that's the case I will probably settle into a 7500 - 10k interval and never think about it again, until I hit 50k or so. The cost of the analysis on a small capacity engine is more expensive than just buying the oil.

 

Rusty- he’s talking about me.

 

Just adding to the conversation with a little anecdotal quibble.. I'll go to the back of the line.

 

See, he confirmed this by liking my post. I’m not offended in the least. I know his type. He believes propoganda, gets emotional, doesn’t like it when they don’t get their way, wants everyone to do what they say, can’t think for themselves.

Go ahead. Insult me all you want if it makes you feel better.

 

You’re not alone my friend.

 

After going through and reading ALL the oil threads here, I am convinced that the right strategy is to never shut the engine off…

if wear takes place at start-up, then no start-up = no engine wear!
And no oil changes!

now I’m leaving the truck on always. - The only downside is that the garage gets a bit smelly overnight…

One month into this and I have no adverse effects to report!