1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

100% metal as far as I could tell. I didn't notice any marking at all on the spring. It was an easy bend with a pair of forceps to the straight not coiled portion of the spring. Just enough to put the RPM's where my ear said they should be. I know I'm running it higher then factory but the motor sounds good and strong. For now.

Honestly, it's lived a good life and returning it to "normal" RPM's isn't a concern. When it goes it goes. I'm also the kinda guy that runs the 3.4L motor into the 4K range all the time. lol

 

Oohhhh okay, sounds like you've got one of the flathead briggs.. something like a 126M02 model. The long spring you easily bent was wrapped around/alongside a metal link piece correct? So long as the metal arm is there, It won't blow up that much more prematurely. .. the fact you were able to fix it by increasing the revs tells me it was more than likely getting too much gas, seats staeting to wear out and if it starts flooding or soaking the air filter, thats why. Needle and seat rebuild kit is cheap, briggs part number 398188. All these are governed to run at 3600rpm But honestly you can run these little guys at 3.9k without risk of snapping a con rod.

4k though, make sure you preclear your yard of sticks cause cause a sudden jolt to the crankshaft is not going to be well received lol

 

Any of my LT bros need these?

 

1"?

 

Was gonna say damn you're close, must be familiar with what 1" looks like

It's 1.25"

 

Or maybe, Gary was never really into Doris

 

To me it looks more like Gary lost a bet with his buddies

Or it's his birthday and he's got some lovely a-hole friends lol

 

Filling up the garage rack; found all this in storage!



Also got these @Area51Runner if you need

 

Thanks bud, but I'm all set.

Now if you have a spare drive shaft (rear front section) or an A340f sitting in storage....

 

back in my college days for sure

 

Have a driveline shop make one for you.

I'm sure you can but custom ones online if you ask someone in here for the length you need.

 

Tom Woods if you want the beef

 

@Wulf

I always forget you have manual hubs, cause I always think of your crawler and not your Tacoma.

You need those parts?

Ball and detent spring are for a manual hub, lock washers are for manual hub cv axles, and the bolts act as a backup cv axle retention if the lock washers fail. I normally call them snap rings but they're not exactly the same as a snap ring (though they act like one).

 

I got one. It's still attached to my wheeling rig which is for sale. Take the whole package. lol

 

He doesn't even wheel tho

 

This.

Their CS is on par with ECGS. About a month after I got my F/R shafts from them the rear shaft blew apart at the flange. Now, it wasn't Woods fault. I had snapped a lower link and that pulled my drivers axle WAY forward. I knew I was bound up and putting it in lo/lo would either move that axle back or something would fail. That something was the diff side flange on the new shaft.

I called Woods and they sent an RMA immediately. It shipped out of Bishop on a Monday. I had it back in my hands that same Friday. Oh, and the invoice they sent me? An email that said it was my freebie. And they didn't just replace the flange. The gave me a brand new shaft. I didn't even pay for shipping. Yep. That's how you run a business and retain customers.

 

Why don't you have your old one shortened? It's cheaper and easier. Driveline Services of San Leandro only charged me around $100 with new tube welded and re-balance. Took them... 2 days.

 

When both 4x4's stand by waiting to get new replacement parts installed



(Other one in the driveway)

 

Put me last on the list, I'll take em if nobody else does