TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You're basically at the point the whole rotor pack comes out. Are you doing a complete rebuild or just swapping out the coupling and fluid?

 

X2. If you need help you need to be more specific about what it is you are either asking the question about or attempting to accomplish or both.

 

ok, my dicks hard!

 

Did not do full rebuild.
Wanted to get as far as cleaning the needle bearings where the two impeller axels fit. During the process changed out coupler, and added new oil. Ceaned it all up and cleaned out throttle body since it was out. It was a good day! Learn a lot. Sorry for a the unclear questions haha I’m gonna blame it on the heat

 

I do have one question: the 3 bolts for the upper idler bracket, I am having trouble tightening the top two bolts. They almost catch but then they give out. In the picture, it’s weird, in the very back it’s like the threads change. I’m thinking about running to the store to get a longer bolts. Anybody else run into this?

bolts tighten down fine just by themselves (not attaching upper idler)

 

Heli coil.

Unfortunately the metal on these supercharger housings are made of soft aluminum, so it is very easy to pull the threads on them. That being said it also makes it very easy to MAKE new threads on them as well, so there's advantages and disadvantages to it all.

 

This may be useful for some people. (ABS wire swap for speedo operation.)

@Airdog

Quote, "Got my speedometer working today, finally proving that a simple wire swap at the abs ecu works. At the abs ecu plug I pulled the wires out for the left front wheel speed sensor (red and green) and right rear speed sensor (that no longer exists.Orange and black wires)
I then put the red and green wires into the 2 spots that the orange and black ones lived in. And like magic the speedometer came alive. I have a 2wd and so it gets it speed signal from the RR wheel speed sensor and with the new axle I no longer have rear speed sensors at all. So this is the trick fuck to making the Speedo work on my truck.
Where your sensor wires are at in the plug vary from year to year and what kind of Nannie’s(atrac,abs,VSC) you have installed…what kind of master cylinder is installed. So having a wiring diagram for your year and model is a must. Unless you don’t mind chasing wires with a meter.


The 2 wires I swapped have the arrows. (The green one has a bit of shrink wrap becase i tore the insulation a bit taking it out)To their right under the yellow wires is where they came from. I put the orange and black wires into those slots as storage since they are not hooked up to anything at the other end.
," Close quote.

 

One of those bolts u can fit a nut behind. It’s what I did for mine that stripped out.

 

What's your impression of the power difference?

 

Off topic update: Jeep is driving! And now that it can drive out of the garage, Tundra goodies going on soon!

 

That’s what I’m thinking as of rn

also appreciate the help @12TRDTacoma. I’ll keep those heli coils in mind

 

improvement but not much. im sure tuning will unlock a bigger slice of pie. it sounds like im able to spin my s/c belt easy. only 2k miles on it. spilt some coolant on it when wrenching. tb water lines burping fluid on them. could coolant compromise the belt?

 

It's probably quite considerable. Even 10 HP feels like a notable difference on these trucks.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZeqbqDkwOwo?feature=share

 

Man, that steering wheel is awesome!

 

Show a 3rd gear pull!

 

Not 100% sure but I believe the speedo works when at least 3 sensors are plugged in, doesn’t matter witch ones. Have you got a code yet for speed sensor ? Are you auto or manual oh I see the pic now your auto!

I’ve been working on a tundra that is converted to straight axle and trying to find a solution for the abs isn’t fun tho I did discover a lot of interesting things about the system. I have got the speedo to work and the 4wd system but it’s been a nightmare because it has dynatrac axles

 

@Airdog

 

My fix is because i do not have any sensors at all on the rear since Ive gone to a full float axle. As of right now I only have 2 speed sensors that work, both fronts and one of them is plugged into the right rear spot at the ABS ECU. I have completly bypassed ABS. The only reason the module is still even in my truck is because the ABS ECU is part of the ABS module and the speed signal comes from the ABS ECU in my truck. My only reason for wanting the speedo to work is because it throws a p0500 code that gives you a check engine light thus not allowing to get the car smogged in california. There is only one solution for ABS to function on any vehicle and that is a speed sensor on each wheel...it needs to know what each wheel is doing seperately in order for it to work. I agree that I learned a lot about the ABS system than i care to know just trying to figure out how to keep the p0500 code away. Everything else can go into the garbage as far as I care. Being 2 wheel drive has its upside in this process as I dont lose things like atrac(another system that needs speed sensors at each wheel in order to work.) Though it is interesting that my VSC and traction contol lights did not come on...I was expecting that...but i'm pretty sure they are inop since go inop when the ABS system is not working. Currently I only have 3 lights..ABS, the skid light and the red word "Brake" light....all expected. On 4wd its possible to pull a speed signal from the xfer case @RonRon23 can probably give more info on that since hes been working on this stuff with me. But regardless it will not keep the ABS working if you do not have speed sensors at each wheel.


PIc of the tees I used to bypass the abs module. It will be getting a proportioning valve put in later this week as the rear brakes are just way to touchy at the moment. I thought doing the sequoia master cylinder from SOS performance would take care of that...but it seems that if you take the abs module out of the system you require a proportioning valve. Toyota sells them for this master cylinder for 180 bucks....i'm just putting in a wilwood proportioning valve that cost 45 bucks and does the same thing and its adjustable. I'll be making a plate to support these tees and the valve this week....so they wont be just floating around in the engine bay.

 

I have been trying so many different ways to get the speedometer to work without the abs module plugged in. Like Tom said, I’ve learned too much about how the abs works to care especially since I’m disabling it altogether as well.

I’ve been using a Dakota digital speedometer module. I’ve ruled out using any of the abs/wheel speed sensors. They are digital and do not produce any ac or dc signal high enough to be useable. The abs ecu actually monitors a current in the mA when the tone ring spins.

So I also tried VSS #2, which on an automatic is the tail shaft speed. While this would of been a 2wd only fix, I had more luck with this sensor but still did not work. It produced AC voltage as a typical reluctance type sensor. Now here’s the kick, this sensor satisfied the Dakota digital module, and it was able to pass it through and only make my ecu show speed. It kept my check engine light off too. The VSS #2, converted with Dakota digital allowed my ecu to see my speed accurately with some adjustment. It showed up on my ultra gauge but the speedometer still would not move. IIRC, the voltage was sub 3vac. Which conditioned though Dakota digital was about 5v. Which made me think the signal worked for the ecu but not high enough for the stepper motor of the speedometer.

Back to the drawing board, more reading, the FSM says the manual 4x4 trucks pull speed off the drivetrain(specifically the speed sensor off a transfer case) directly to the speedometer on a square wave 11-14vdc signal.

So I bought a couple speed sensors off eBay, they have 3 wires. Power, signal, and ground.
Found out they were mixed up color wise but I verified that the signal from the TCase sensor put out 11vdc square wave just like the FSM shows. Verified this on an oscilloscope. For the heck of it, I even monitored the signal that goes from abs ecu to speedometer. It was the same exact signal.

So I have not 100% verified this yet, but on 4x4 trucks, I’m leaning towards a TCase sourced speed sensor fed directly to the speedometer would make it work and then be passed backwards to the ecu. I need to pull my driveshaft flange off the T case and pull part of the case apart to swap a spacer for a worm gear that I was lucky enough to not have like some cases. I figured when I pull my truck apart for my full floater, I’ll mess around with it while it’s on stands.

If I confirm the sensor works out for everything on a 2012+ (non off-road) I’ll update this thread too. If it does, for 2wd models, there should be two options. One that Tom has done, leaving the module on the truck strictly to condition one of the front sensors for speed but will not function abs. Or use of a pick up sensor off the driveshaft could be used through a Dakota digital module to the speedometer.

For those who alter it like Tom’s solution, I tossed this idea out to him to make the footprint smaller. Split the ecu from the pump and make a cover plate. Pictures are not from a Tacoma but you get the idea.