Rubber hose ID/help

Fellas, doing a radiator flush this morning and i have two hose that arent connected to anything. the previous owner did some sort of ghetto air filter. Do these normally go to the factory airbox?

 

Surprised you don't have a p0171 with the rear vacuum leak.

Both hose are tied to the intake

 

Brother, i have all the codes

thanks for helping. The intake is makeshift. Anyone recommend a better intake or should i just order an oem airbox to get this right again?

 

Actually, i dont have 0171. But i have 0446, 0442, 0441, 0136. Not asking anyone to comment on these though. Im working through them one at a time. Im sure there are threads for each.


Thanks for AIRBOX comments

 

Keep in mind 1 fault can trigger multiple codes.

 

Those code are related to the fuel/evap system.

Fuel cap, vsv, evap

 

Both of those hoses connect to the air intake hose and on the factory hose there are plastic resonator chambers as well, see this post for pics - https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-3-4-vacuum-hose-thread.599838/page-9#post-23152472

I actually have an unused oem-style air intake hose if you're interested just pay for shipping (it has the same hole size as the post above where the factory plastic resonator doesn't fit perfectly)

 

The stock set up is about the best since you should have the new style MAF sensor.

 

Thank you for the offer. Let me think through how im going to approach this and ill let you know. Thanks!

 

Those two hoses just tie in up stream on the intake tube.....the fat tube is the IAC feed that bypasses the butterfly.....Its arbitrary where you tap in , that iac hose needs pretty big connector, 3/4" plastic or brass, elbow or straight.....drill a hole and use a rubber gourmet...

Make sure the charcoal cannister line ties in upstream/farside the of the MAF sensor so you dont get a code....

 

Osilver_taco

what intake system are you using? There is no box on my filter it just sucks hot air from the engine bay

 

Yeah that's not a good sign.....If you just stick on a cheap generic cold air induction... you may do more harm than good.

For one thing you dont want to just suck hot air out of the engine box, that's not what the factory does.
If you change air flow characteristics too much, messes with the ecm.

The expensive ones like $300 and up are engineered to preform best with a certain model/engine size...
that's what your paying for, their engineers to tweak that plastic tube and filter to make nice with the ecm.
That's the difference between the the $99 ones and the $400 ones.......

If you want to go back stock, plenty here that have those parts.....this would be cheapest and easiest fix....


Otherwise ......there are a few good ones.....even then you might get a too lean code......my fuel trim at idle is zero......at highway its +30...

Closed Box Air Intake (18634) 1999-2004 Toyota Tacoma, 1999-02 4Runner - Volant Performance

 

Again you can patch up existing until you figure it out.....

 

This is all good info. I like your set up- it looks really clean. Ill probably order a complete aftermarket kit

 

As your engine turns into a senior, vacuum leaks are sneaky little devils.....
It pays to have a nice clean intake and vacuum layout, and black aint the best color for future aging split hose inspections......