ETCS 10 amp fuse raptor lights question

Hey guys I’m new to this website but I would like to know if the ETCS 10 amp fuse be good to connect add a fuse for the raptor lights. I’ve heard the EFI 10amp something about fuel injectors would do a self test and the raptor lights would come on when the truck is off. I want the raptor lights to be on when the truck is on. (07 prerunner V6 SR5 Tacoma)

Does anyone know if the ETCS fuse 10 amp does the same thing that turns on by itself while truck is off? I don’t want the lights to drain battery.

 

You could always check the wiring diagram to check for something like this. Or just grab a multimeter and measure yourself with the ignition in different positions. I forget if ECTS is on or off with the ignition though.

I have mine wired into existing lighting for the parking lamps. The LEDs I have draw <300mA, so the only existing circuit handles it just fine.

 

In my opinion that fuse is NOT a good location.
It’s tied to critical components of the engine. I never like to add things to critical operating circuits.
In my opinion, it’s somewhat of a safety concern.

Hers is what that fuse is connected to.

 

yeah but doesn’t the add a fuse protect it from that original fuse being blown? I’m thinking on connecting the grill lights to the low beams or if I want it on always when the truck is on I could connect it to the power outlet fuse which is inside the cab. But my wires aren’t long enough to reach and I have no idea how to extend them to reach inside the cab through the firewall grommet.

 

I don't understand why you don't just tap into headlight wiring for the parking light, to be on when the switch is turned forward one click.

There's a fuse box in the engine bay.

Wire can be lengthened with more wire and NSPA KrimpaSeal

 

I don’t want to tap into a factory wire I saw a video were a guy did and it messed up the computer not letting turning on the daytime running lights the next day or a few days later. Apparently it blew some fuses. That’s why I decided to go with add a fuse but I’m trying to know which fuse would be good without any issues in the future.

 

an LED with low power draw should not blow a fuse.
The existing circuit powering the headlights, already has a fuse. That can potentially be increased in size.
Many people here have tapped into headlight wiring without issue.


These are not supposed to be DRL's. They are supposed to be Parking Lights, just like the rest of the stock Parking Lights

 

So for my 07 Tacoma I could tap into the marker lights headlight but that’s kind of like a permanent thing. I’ve heard you use some T-Tap connectors to tap into headlight marker light wire.

 

The marker lights are powered by the tail fuse.
If you are wanting to add a fuse, then that might be an option.

 

tail fuse? I believe that’s located in the cabin. I think I will give a try on that and see if they work. I might have to extend the wires so I’ll watch videos on how to extend wires so I can reach to the inside of the cabin. I’ll post a follow up with pictures after.

 

why add a fuse if it already has a fuse

I just ordered a piercing wire insertion tool for $10. It looks like a pain to put any new wires through the firewall.

I’m not sure why you would need to. If you can tap from the headlight wiring to turn on automatically with parking lights. This is what I plan to do for mine

The tail fuse is a mini red 10 amp behind the left little cubby under the steering wheel.

the lights would be disconnectable if you use T taps. This is how people wire in tracking GPS locators such as for anti theft.

you can also wire in connectors that can be disconnected. NiLight has a kit of like 10 of them on Amazon. Waterproof. I have 3 Oznium amber LED bolts. Probably 11mm. 2 wire.
So I will crimp in 3 of those connectors, 1 to each light. Or, 1 connector, farther down at the harness. Both so the light unit is replaceable if it ever fails, and to be disconnectable for when I have to remove the grill. Which I probably will have to later on. Whether it’s to gain access to install a steel bumper if that day ever comes, or to clean or replace my front cooling fin parts as preventative maintenance such as the AC condenser and radiator.

I need to bend some of the condenser fins straight. I washed it the other day trying to improve their efficiency. From off roading, the condenser and radiator had a huge layer of brown dirt that I’m sure was making the AC blow not as cold. It was recharged approx 3yr ago so maybe I’ll give it another recharge just to be sure it’s good still and not leaking.

did the cleaning by removing the grill (fast), spraying AC coil cleaner, then water rinse from pressure washer

 

OP, said he didn’t like to modify or tap into existing wires.
That’s why I mentioned it. And it wasn’t my idea add for adding a fuse, it was his.

 

OP also said he wants lights on with truck on for no other reason than to let carjackers know where the target is,
and to tap into fuel injectors so the engine shuts off unexpectedly
Wiring from the fuel injector wouldn't look clean, either.

wiring is simply that. Pathways for electricity. Manufacturer made those pathways to power existing components. Truck did not come with raptor lights. More pathways have to be created. Makes sense to do that off of the existing front lighting harness, which already has a fuse. That is the nearest pathway.
Wouldn't make sense to run wires from the rear of the truck across the frame from a license plate light which is the farthest away point

For future repairability, as the owner of the truck, he knows what he did to it/what components and wiring is added.
If not, you can mark it, by wiring differently (cloth tape wrap from another manufacturer instead of conduit like Toyota) or putting a wrap of colored 3M Super 33 electrical tape. Yellow typically is used for marking "repair to OEM harness was done here", such as rodent damage repair.

Fuse tap is another option
Then arises the question of how to make the fuse tap waterproof. Or maybe using an enclosed inline fuse holder instead. So that it as just as waterproof as a wire, which is waterproof due to being enclosed in sheathing/insulation + conduit



SDHQ billet battery terminal upgrade kit has more attachment points for power
plenty of places for chassis negative/ground

aux fuse block is more expensive and commonly only added when putting a bunch more significant components such as roof rack LED lightbar etc.
Overland Equipped tray $70
breaker switch $100
Blue Sea panel $80 = $250 total minimum

 

I was referring to a Fuse-Tap.

I don’t care how he wires them. Wire them directly to the battery for all I care.
He asked for opinions on, if the ETCS was a good place. I gave my opinion. (Mistake 1)
Then mentions he didn’t like tapping into existing wires. Which, I never even recommend.
Because again, I don’t care how he runs the wires. I only, and regrettably, mentioned “a fuse” (mistake 2) because OP sounded like he wasn’t comfortable tapping into existing wires. And OP was the one that mentioned the add-a-fuse in post #6. (Again, not me.) That’s were the “fuse” talk started.

Again, I don’t care. And I’ll not express my opinion or give any more advice on this post.

Your advice seems solid, as does your knowledge on electronics. He should probably follow your advice.
I am just a guy that tries to help people if he can, I never to took electronics classes.
I sometimes fix things that break. But formal education on mechanical or electrical repairs, I have none.


Best of luck to you OP. Hopefully you get those lights working how you want them.

 

don’t worry you don’t have to reply to this post but I found a better place where they can work near the tail fuse there is a empty spot which I’ve just been told that slot will work great if you only want to use add a fuse. Thanks for letting me know about the tail fuse though.