Home Improvement Today?

I havent taken one apart but i think you can replace them. They usually have screws holding them in covered by white caps.

 

They came from Lowe’s, but are now discontinued, so either Reliabilt or Jeld Wen. I contacted Jeld Wen needing a part number for the bottom boot for the astragal, they said none of the numbers I gave them were their part numbers. They asked for the numbers etched on the bottom corners of the glass, and of course you can’t read them.

I may end up replacing the entire insert, the glass started fogging up a little on the inside this past winter.

 

I just found the receipt, purchased and installed July 2009. Maybe it’s time to replace a few parts on them!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-...2-in-x-80-in-Actual-71-5-in-x-79-5-in/1241413

 

Hanging plywood panels.

Any tricky tips on lining up and cutting holes for outlet boxes?

 

I assume the outlet boxes are pre hung? I measure from the closest board and pre drill a 1" hole. Then once its hung, flush trim bit on a router with a bottom bearing. It rides in the electrical box for a perfect fit. Just make sure you push the electrical wires deep into the boxes.

-J

 

If your glass is fogging, the glass seal is gone and they are no longer efficient. They need replaced.

Measure 10 times and cut 4 times and still get it wrong?

 

New build? Basically like drywall guys, mark the location and use plunge bit to route the holes out

 

I’ve tried countless times to explain that to my better half!

 

There should be a brand on the inside of the door or on the frame. Or even measurements of the opening

 

Yes. Next panel coming.

 

example
https://www.lowes.com/pd/ODL-Clear-view-22-in-x-64-in-Clear-Entry-Door-Sidelight-Glass/5000174277

 

Installed a Ring Security system to replace our old Brinks (now ADT) security system which required a landline (AT&T, $98/month). The Ring has cellular backup so saving over $120/month. Ring professional monitoring is $20 a month, ADT had just increased to $46/month.
The reason I went with Ring is they have a Retrofit Kit which allows me to use the existing hardwired sensors (door sensors and glass break sensors). Using the existing systems power supply and 12V battery backup to power the glass break sensors. All working well and no false alarms in the 10 days I’ve had it up. Plan on getting a Ring pro 2 doorbell when/if they go in sale.

Retrofit kit with existing contact sensors wired to it:


Existing doorbell transformer (in utility closet) is 16V 10VA and not adequate for a Ring wired doorbell:

Replaced existing doorbell transformer above with new duplex receptacle, plug in 16.5v 40VA doorbell transformer, installed Ring base station:

Also mounted the ring keypad in the hallway but typically I use the ring ap on my phone to arm/disarm, check status of everything, etc. Love the ap.

 

Bead board is all done. Doing some painting today. Yes paint not stain. Wife wants it white. Spent the time picking boards with the least amount of knots.

 

I usually just try my best to triangulate where it's at. Measure from the floor up to the bottom of the box, from the previous piece of plywood over, from the ceiling down to the top of the box, etc.

 

I think we’re going to have the experts come out and fix it, that way if something happens in the future I’ll know who to get ahold of. Now the joy of trying to find some place.

 

^^^ My method, perfectly explained... ^^^

I have always been better on the mechanical side of the job than the finish side.

 

I always have to use those jumbo outlet covers

 

That looks so sweet --- for paint...
Oh well, happy wife - happy life they say.

 

When I did the walls a few years ago I was going to paint them white with the natural wood ceiling, but when I put on a coat of white primer sealer she didn’t like the white at all so painted it the same color as the house. She loved it but thought it was to dark for a natural look ceiling so asked if I could do it in white.

 

In this case, I'd pull the faceplate and outlet from the box, measure from the center of the box to the panel on the right. If your leaving a small gap between sheets, make sure you account for that. Also, pull a line straight down to the floor to give you that measurement. Mark your plywood at the same spot and drill your hole. Make sure you push those electrical cables deep into the electrical box. Set the depth on your router making sure that the bearing has clearance below the plywood. Hang the sheet and then route the hole. If you're mounting flush, then you'll want to swap out the bearing for one that's about 1/8-1/4" smaller than the diameter of the flush trim bit. I hope that makes sense.

-J