Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Those are not mine. My setup doesn't really compare because I don't have my air compressor there. But thanks!

Mine finished and kinda hidden back there:

 

Yes on that switch. Only had the negative terminals disconnected. I should have just disconnected the positive cables too. One weird thing I noticed was weeks ago once I disconnected the negative cables I saw a faint flicker at the switch inside a few minutes after. Though nothing of it, went on welding and no issues. I have that in the back of my mind now.

It seems like odd timing the things glitching now.

The batteries won’t automatically latch when running and I know the batteries are both fully charged, not just from the voltmeter, but a couple weeks ago I hooked up a solar panel directly to the second battery and it would latch both batteries just sitting in the sun.

I have the 3 amp fuse wired between the switch and the battery, fuse is in good shape, switched it for good measure. Checked all wiring, grounds, no bare wires, everything snug in the connectors and insulated.

What you described having to manually latch under the hood applies to what I’m seeing.

I bought a new switch, they’re only like $25 so I’ll see if that’s the case.

I don’t think it’d be the panel, the truck went into the garage with the switch latched then welded with the panel disconnected from the battery and after that’s when I noticed the switch was not functioning.

Frustrating because I have a trip planned in a couple weeks and my dash is torn apart checking wiring

 

Quick question.

I have a Renogy 20A DC-DC charger mounted near my battery in the bed. I'm about to run my cables (4/0) to my main battery and put a fuse at the positive terminal of the cranking battery.

My question is where do you guys usually run the wire(s) that tells the charger that the truck is running. The manual said to splice into the alternator wire. But, I don't think that's really necessary. I should be able to use a tap a fuse to get a wire that's hot when the truck is running. The purpose is to tell the Renogy that the truck is running - you can charge.

Am I missing something?

 

I tapped into an ignition fuse in the cab

 

Perfect that's what I was going to do. And, you ran both wires (D+ and LC - according to Renogy) from the renogy to the same 'hot'. That's my understanding.

Thanks again for the quick input. Very helpful.

 

I thought about getting secondary battery under the hood on passenger side. I noticed I have no room for it... Did you move factory stuff before you placed battery in that spot?

I have 4 or 5 metal lines going in that area. Not sure what it is... maybe ABS braking system?

 

I have a CTEK dcdc charger. It needed an ignition signal to start charging from alternator (but I attached my + to the house battery)

Im not sure what LC is

 

What’s the verdict?

 

Only certain models don’t have control lines there (I have an OR). I still had to bend the horn mount.

Edit for quote/clarity

 

@jsackspot

Figures. I guess I'll get solar panel placed on the rack or put secondary battery in the bed somewhere.

I will upgrade my main battery to bigger one.

 

I’ve been reviewing solar panels for charging; I think the hood mounted versions (Lensun has slightly higher wattage than Cascadia 4x4) are best for topping off a dual battery while on the road and at times, parked; while at camp fold-out panels (150W – 200W +) are better options for charging since you can reposition panels for the best power throughput.

So far, the Bluetti panels are the only ones I’ve found that has the best price/performance (when on sale), since the sites are wired in parallel, so when there’s partial cover, other site areas are still optimized for charging.

 

Thanks for info..

I have been figuring out the idea on my own which I have so far other day: The solar panels would be used for overhead leds and bed leds only, (maybe phone charging as well). The secondary battery are for everything else such as fridge, other stuff. I plan to get inverter so the power won't get interrupted. Right now I have 100/400 watt outlet in bed but it sucks. I want more watts and no more interrupting. I plan to replace stock inverter to something else with more watts. If new inverter gets interrupted, then there should be a timer in the truck hidden somewhere which should be changed or take it out or bypass it.

The last option would be getting a trailer that will have everything in it. I mean, battery, leds, matteress, etc.

 

Just curious but what do you want the inverter for that won’t run on 12v? The conversion loses energy. My folks RV has a microwave and AC unit that are 110 AC only so I can understand the need. Their fridge runs on either 110AC, 12VDC, or propane.

 

I used bed outlet for tools for work (i work for home remodeling co.) while back but it kept interrupting. I gave that up and I used either house outlet or battery operated tools. My worker sometimes bring generator for corded tools if no power at the house.

That's the reason I plan to change inverter. Which made me think it could interrupt the fridge... I don't know.

My parents has RV too. I wish they kept the long RV that mounted in the bed hitch. They have 'Van-like' RV for now.

 

I picked up a 12V charger for my battery tools(I have a full kit and 10 or so 18V batteries) to go with the 110 2-bay charger I normally use. Any 15A corded tool is looking at needing close to a 2000W inverter and keeping the truck running. At that point a generator becomes a better option. For small jobs where I need a bit of compressed air I use HP paintball bottles and have a 4500psi compressor to refill them.

 

Yeah I know about corded tools require more watt inverter. I saw a video a guy replaced inverter with a 3000W inverter.

 

Just reminding that W = V * A or A = W/V so 2000watts at 12V is ~ 167A. That’s some serious juice to be running through the truck just to avoid using a generator. You’d need a bank of batteries to run even part of a day not to mention the weight and cost of the copper cables supplying it. A generator plus gas would likely weigh less and last longer. I don’t think I’d want to put that much time on my tacos motor and the necessary alternator and system upgrades to avoid that running the taco instead. What works for the minimum requirements for over landing doesn’t necessarily translate to an off grid job site. It could be done though.

 

I will figure something out. You said about off grid job site... Not what I meant, I meant was that the house lose power due storm or something like that. Only temporary. I am not planning to use the power from the truck everyday or all day.. just for small cutting jobs such as 2x4s when there is no power around.. something like that. If for wider boards, then I use something else instead of truck's power. If something require heavy work, then I can wait until the house power back on or a worker bring the generator.

I would like to install a fridge in bed and we use it to keep drinks cold. If I plan to go on weekend/week vacation, then I leave work stuff at home and use my truck for camping... the fridge is ready.

Someday, I will get another truck and turn it to a DD/work truck... and my current truck would be for off road only.. that way, I don't have to replace work tools with camping stuff.. back and forth.

I wish I take my parent's RV out to off road but I don't trust it because it is not designed for off road. It will need off road tires, 4x4, etc. I don't want to get stuck with it.

 

Got it. A decent house battery, solar panel, charge controller, and a decent inverter should take care of you. The panel won’t keep up with high drain power tools but should be fine for a fridge. Cordless saws have come a long ways and are well suited to most things short of long rips in thick lumber. I’d get one instead of those instead of a bigger inverter so you’re not limited to the length of your cords from the truck.

 

Thanks.