Front Cv axle inboard seal install

It appears I need a right seal redo. As I recall, I did struggle to get it in straight. It would start off ok & inevitably one side would end up in a little farther & I couldn’t get it to even out. Not sure if I just called it & hoped it’d hold. If that’s the case, we’ll, it didn’t.

I recall I tried an adapter from a ball joint set that fit the outer circumference of the seal. I tried a bearing seal press kit with various adapters. Also a larger, flat headed punch, lightly tapping around the edge.

Oh, & I did lube up the outer edge.

Any tips/ideas or something I’m missing?

 

Put seal in the freezer.

Use gear oil as lube to allow for the seal to go in easily.

Use a seal driver, to ensure even distribution of force.

5.5mm depth per FSM.

You can cheat and get the Wit's End driver.

 

So I was leery of the seal driver because the seal isn’t flat. The driver would “mush” the lip around the inner opening. This is no biggie after all?

 

Huh?

A seal driver, if used correctly, will drive a seal forward and evenly.

The tool depicted above has a lip that forces the seal to the specified depth required for your Toyota, hence it'll cost a bit more.

Not sure what you're asking, as the information provided achieves what you're trying to do.

 

i’ll have to do pics in a bit. 1st I must go loaner the seal driver I speak of….

 

I hope I'm not coming off as abrasive, but what I'm saying is replacing a cv axle seal is a rather basic process.

It is easy to drive a seal too far, or not enough, but with some patience and measuring (with a small caliper set), you'll get it.

A friend and I got some grief from doing ours at the same time, but we really pushed to get it done fast and it was really hot outside. We had also improvised and used PVC pipe that we half-assed in cutting with a reciprocating saw.

Once we each got our own seal driver, it was really quick and easy to do. Maybe half hour tops.

 

K. Thank you. I'm sure I'll get it....

 

Use a seal puller, or some kind of tool like a small pry bar, to wedge and yank out the old seal.

Doesn't matter if you damage it as it's garbage.



Make sure you've got some gear oil as you'll need to top off your diff once everything is reinstalled.

 

There's the tried and true redneck method as well. Freeze the seal, line it up close, then push it in place with the CV axle. I'm so far 4 for 4 on that method.

 

I just used a punch, gently tapping ‘round the perimeter of the seal. If you hold the punch so that it catches the lip on the inside of the diff tube (this lip is conveniently located at the desired depth), then you can easily set the depth, both evenly and correctly. Use a brass drift if you don’t know how hard to swing the hammer and are afraid of nicking the diff tube.

The fancy tool probably makes sense if you’re replacing diff seals all day, every day, or perhaps if you just enjoy expensive, shiny objects and have an empty spot in your toolbox. Hell, it would probably double as an espresso tamper, if you’re in to that kind of thing.

 

As I recall there is PVC pipe + cap that fits exactly, I have a few of those in tool box labelled with the use. I think another guy told me a standard canned food can works?

Also, I have pulled CV axles many times and have had to use a sledge (usually just one hit, not like I'm beating on it) to get them back into diff but the last time I did it I had a lot of trouble on one so I put the wheel end shaft in the loose hub which seems to line it up perfectly and it slid in on its own! I think the problem is that the alignment of the axle shaft going into the diff has to be perfect. I did try to pull it out with hand force and I think its OK but probably should double check.

Like to hear what others say on this.

The other hard part of front end work is getting the shock (with 2.5" lift makes it much worse) back on the lower mount when working alone - very difficult because I can't press down on the LCA while pressing or hammering the bolt in. I tried jamming a rubber mallet head in the bump stop area but it would not stay in. So I figured out that mounting the shock with ball joint disconnected (4 bolts) is much easier. Then put a jack under the LCA to get the 4 LBJ bolts back on.

With my previous shock/coil I would force a large Phillips head screwdriver into the outside shock hole and try to force it so so the inside of the shock hole lines up with the mount but it takes a huge force and screwdriver on the verge of breaking with my current shock/coil.

Any tips appreciated.

 

So I measured around & got a section at the top with some spots at 6.5-ish. This would do it I take it….

 

CV axles - I believe a key is to have the circlip opening on the bottom when installing & removing. I tried to figure it out today when removing by turning a smidge, pull. Turning a smidge, pull. Wash, rinse, repeat. My neighbor came over, gave it a few shots at it & out it came. Thought he was all that & a bag of chips. I didn't bother telling him I was doing the same thing. It's good to let people feel useful.
Think this time when I reinstall I'll line the circlip opening up with the boot ring clamp so I know how to position it next time.

Coilovers - I use a guide bar? (can't recall the wording). It's like a pry bar, however it has a point on one end. Then as the bolt works its way through, I switch to a fat punch. I'll post pics of both tomorrow if you want....

 

So taking my time. Looking things over. I notice, yes, surface rust around the outer surface edge where the axle goes in. Appears to
be more atop than bottom. I would wager that would throw off said caliper measurement, if using one like mine anyway.
Other thing I noticed is a ding on the same surface which created a burr? (not sure I’m using that word correctly here) on the inside where the dust seal sets.
& now I recall, I had finished the seal off last time using a wider flat head punch like @AmherstAndy had suggested. Doesn’t mean I got it perfect though.
Just sharing observations is all…. For what it’s worth. Or maybe I’m just listening to myself type out loud

 

The bar’s tip, being thinner & longer, helps only until you get the bolt to a certain point. Then it’s too thin. That’s why I switch. The leverage of the bar is great though, so more ideal would be if the punch was longer. I haven’t looked into whether “they” make a smaller bar. Anyway, both harbor freight “specials”….
Oh, & of course adjusting the LCA accordingly as you stated you do anyway. Wedging things like the punches or a small crow bar in between the bottom of the coilover & the LCA can help.

& lastly, if you’re trying to push the LCA down, some use a bottle jack in between the wheel well & the UCA. I’ve done this, but not a fan. Course this means leaving the LBJ as is.
Ok. Noted that you stated 2.5 lift & mine is only about 1in, so hopefully some/all/any of it helps.
Now back to the task at hand.

 

Thanks, also I just remembered that a previous time I did it I noticed that the sway bar appeared to be limiting the down travel. In theory if both wheels are off the ground the sway cannot limit down travel (since it has no real limit on far it can turn) but reality is the that the connection between sway bar and the link starts binding when angle gets extreme. So I removed sway bar at the link and it helps.

But forcing the shock end with a pointed tool is faster and as I'm sure you know when you are on your knees and trying to finish after a long day of reassembly you tend to go for what appears to be the faster method even if its a bit of a struggle.

 

Ha-ha! Sorry. I use those to guide the bolt. By sticking it in the side the bolt should be exiting you can manipulate the eye. Then tap he bolt. Manipulate the eye, tap....

 

I used the "redneck method" @m3bassman posted. Decided to do this in the driveway & it started to storm before I could get all reassembled, so we'll see.

 

Fingers crossed!

 

ood news is it worked! Bad news is I think I need to redo the drivers as well. I wasn’t sure because it was not as obvious. Maybe now there’s more pressure with the other sealed up? Good news though, is now I can use the same method to install. Thank you all for your help