Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I saw that step of the instructions but skipped past it. What’s the easiest way to crank and not start? I imagine pull some fuse or relay but not sure which one. I’ll add that my list of things to do during the bleed. And I’m down at Uwharrie, windrock and Potts so that wouldn’t be difficult to make happen.

 

I just turned the key and didn’t let it crank long enough to start just a few blips to turn the pump around a few times.

nice I’m just 2.5 hours from Potts or Uwharrie.

 

Oh that’s simple enough, I’ll have to give that a shot. I’m gonna tackle this tomorrow and I’ll let you know next time I go wheeling those places.

 

Just pull the fuel pump fuse. Not sure which IGN fuse would be for the coil packs. Can pull that one too

 

Sounds good. Let me know.

 

re: Change rear LCA bushing to fit pivots,

What's everyone doing? (4x4)

-AC Delco 45G3800; can't find any
-RockAuto says use Moog K200774; doesn't fit, too small. _774 under 2nd gen RockAuto calls it "2wd/prerunner" yet when selecting '17 Tacoma implies it fits both lol (2wd LCA probably smaller)

only option I'm seeing left is to put an OEM bushing in there and drill to 5/8" like listed as another way of doing it; hopefully it works fine
which is

$16 MOOG K200773 Suspension Control Arm Bushing for Toyota Tacoma

MOOG K200773 according to RockAuto
My Milwaukee drill bit set goes up to 1/2"; maybe it's time to get 5/8"

 

Get a reamer for like 20$ like everybody has discussed. You should find a link and info a few pages back. Plus, you will need it if you ever go double shear anyways.

 

I still need to do this. And put bumps on.


In my defense, I've never bottomed out the suspension hard yet, even hopping the occasional train track. I've stuffed it offroad without issue. As far as the bolts, I didn't notice I dragged them out in the rocks, but I also wasn't under the truck. May have to do that this weekend if I remember.

 

What material thickness did you use for the patch? I have my arms pushed all the way forward which gives me just enough clearance to slightly rub the firewall at full lock and full stuff.

 

I personally used 20g on mine just because its so easy to form and work with and it was close to factory thickness. On my firewall I used 16g just for a little extra protection.

 

That's what I use too. It seems too thin when it's in your hand but once it's formed and welded, it's solid.

 

I pulled the fuel pump relay and it worked wonderfully. Though the first time I cranked the truck started and it really threw me off. Must’ve been the residual gas in there.

 

I think I got it all fixed so I figure I'd share what was going on.

I bled the system again this morning and got all of the air out. I jacked the front end up and cycled the steering wheel a whole bunch. Then removed the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine for a few seconds, and then cycled the steering some more. I repeated that 3-4 times. Then I started the truck and let it idle for 2 minutes, then turned the steering wheel a dozen times but stayed off of steering stops. Turned the truck off and waited 5 minutes. Good to go.

Went for a 4 minute test drive and when I got home, more bubbles in the reservoir.

Both fittings on the pump were seeping so I tightened them more. They were already tight, but I really cranked down on those suckers and I bled the system again.

So far so good, so I presume it was sucking air in through those fittings. I think there may be a little air left in the system so I'm leaving the cap off of the reservoir overnight, something I read on pirate as well as recommended to me by a mechanic buddy.

 

I'm running into this issue as well so I've mounted my cooler horizontally like yours. I am picking up the straight fitting today so the hose routing isn't so funky.

 

That one guys OCD will thank you for that. I’ll be honest, I almost picked up a straight fitting when I was at the hydraulic store the other day, but decided against it.

 

Haha. I'm not OCD and it'll function as intended with the 90*. Plus, the grill will hide the routing anyway. I haven't reopened the system up yet though to re-route the hoses so might as well take the opportunity and do it "right".

 

So you already had the system installed and ran into winch issues so you're remounting the cooler? Am I getting that right? But yeah, may as well get the straight fitting on there while you're already in there.

 

That is correct. I had the PS setup installed but had the bumper off for modifications. So now I get to redo my work.

 

Damn! That came out very good. Looks mean as hell.

 

Thanks man!