1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Take your pick...

$53 Hayden 678 Universal Rapid-Cool 9.5” x 11” Add-On Transmission Cooler – Not for Direct Replacement of the OE Cooler

Hayden 678, 679 both scream FU at that AC line.

If that one support wasn't bent slightly I think the bumper wouldn't be an issue. Maybe its time for the BFH.

 

Cool, thanks.

Just wondering if it's practical to actually use my piggyback to retard or not. I reset the battery the other week, watched timing, and once I got around 3-4k RPM at high load (just before WOT), it throws a cam position sensor code and retards to -4*. I don't think it's pinging. I'm basically NA still. Something else is going on and whatever it is is probably why I get such terrible mileage too.

 

If it's throwing codes that needs to be addressed first, but yeah the retard function of the piggybacks is to retard a little in high load areas so the ECU doesn't pull a ton at that point and neuter the top of the range

 

I always thought the cam code was due to the piggyback, since it started right after I installed it years ago. It only triggers in that RPM/load region, with or without retard set. It resets itself after 3-4 engine restarts so I've just been living with it. URD ofc was no help at the time.

 

That's what the bumper is for haha

 

Speaking of bumpers. Is a 1.75 dom bumper in 1/8th wall acceptable or does it need to be 1/4 wall?

 

Send me an engine

 

@Speedytech7

How do I wire in a standalone ecu to my celica, jumper harness style.

I've always wanted to but never had the reason

 

God damn, rust is so bad you've got wire wound resistors freaking rusting!

 

The car is spotless its just the capacitor juices

 

You have to build an intercept harness. It's a lot of work. You'll have to buy the female ECU plug to get started and go through your piggyback wiring harness and the EWD for the celly and match em up.

 

That sounds familiar. Think NJ used car salesmen may have that trademarked.

 

Oof

 

I kinda already have the female on from the junk ecu I just got myself

 

I've learned that too many times in my life lol

Definitely prefer to pay more upfront for less effort down the line

 

Jésus Christa that's alotta welding to do

 

What standalone are you going to use and what method of tuning are you going to use?

 

Not a fucking clue hence why I'm asking you

I feel like I could get away with a haltech 750, but feel like a 1500 would be adequite future proofing in case I get jiggy wit it

 

I'm mostly concerned abou how I'm going to retain a speedometer, dash guages, ac, and cruise control

Like, how does a standalone communicate to the rest of the car or is that's not the engines sensors

 

Non-issue.

The 4R runs a similar setup.