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The problem section cut out.

Should make it a little easier to work on.

Forgot about the 4 x 4 keeping it off the floor. Now I know why the shop was smokey. Oops.

 

anyone here work with well pumps? mine just shit the bed and im wondering if there's a huge difference in the $300 well pump and a $800 one. I really don't feel like dropping $800 on an identical replacement for the one that I have right now

pretty sure the motor seized up. shes got power but just does that electric motor thats seized up hum.

my current one is a 3/4hp Goulds.

 

It might just need a capicitor, if it has one. They are cheap.

 

Would the failed capacitor allow the motor casing to get hot without turning over?

 

How old is it? And got a part #?

 

Those are some whimsy lookin blades too.

 

Goulds c48aa33a06 jet pump. Assuming it’s the original work the house, about 20 years old?

 

Buy a name brand, not one from lowes. Learned that the hard way.

 

Probably just stick with the same one I have then. It did last 20 years with not much maintenance.

 

My lowes one lasted less than 4.

 

Oof. Yea definitely don’t want to have to mess with it anymore than I have to. It’s not in a nice location.

 

This is it and it’s all under the HVAC units with not much working room. Sorry about the spider pic it’s all I had with the units in it lol

 

Got the bent up part 90% straight. It at least lines up with the parent iron.

Still need to clean up the traumatized part in prep for welding.

Test fit is better than I hoped.

Easy math after this point ...except for finding time to finish it up.

 

start capacitor on left. I found this start capacitor but dont know if that matches up to yours.

https://www.pumpcatalog.com/goulds/pump-repair-parts/9k353/

 

Obviously: Turn off the power first.

See if the motor will spin over by hand, if yes proceed.

The thing at 6 o'clock with the copper looking hands is the start switch, it is actuated by the centrifugal weights with the springs on the motor shaft. If the contacts are dirty/burned it won't start. You can try cleaning them with a brass wire brush, fine Scotch-Brite or fine sand cloth.
The weight assembly needs to be able to slide easily on the shaft to work the start switch, if it is rusted that will prevent it from moving. Move the weights out by hand stretching the springs, the collar should move easily and you will see how the start switch works.

The black can is the capacitor, take it to any electric motor shop and they can test it for you in a minute and sell you a new one if needed. They aren't expensive.

Goulds is an old name quality brand normally stocked by professional plumbing supply houses (look for Plumber/HVAC vans out front) take a picture of all identification tags on the pump/motor and they should be able to get you parts.

If it can't be fixed don't get a Lowes/TSC cheap job - they just won't last.

 

X2 on contacts

 

Thanks for the write up for me! luckily the motor does turn by hand, and the contacts were burned a little, but I just cleaned them up and made sure the weights and springs were moving freely, and went to turn her back on and now I don't even get the hum I was getting before. I guess ill try replacing the capacitor next and see if that helps. Thank you again.

 

Glad to try to help, that is what we do around here.

Silence = trouble.

Do you have a volt meter you can make sure you have power at the pump? Is it wired 120 or 240 volts?
Usually a single phase motor will hum (and get hot quickly) if the start circuit isn't engaged or the capacitor is bad.

The pressure switch contacts can be bad as well.

There will be a single nut on the top of the pressure switch to remove the plastic cover, you can check for voltage there.

Speaking of the pressure switch if the tank is above the pump cut in pressure there will be no voltage to the pump - the switch is in the open state.
Normal pressure switch ranges are 20/40, 30/50, 40/60 the low number being the cut in and the high being the cut out. The range of your switch will marked under the plastic cover.

 

❓:

Brand new stator, test out @.04 Ohms. ( Within spec)

New flywheel magnets (installed by BIL)

New rectifier/voltage regulator.

I'm only getting 9 volts A/C out of the stator.

Battery voltage is 11ish VDC ( center post on rectifier)

I'm wondering if miss applied magnets will result in sub par voltage ( should be 30+ VA/C).

If magnets are miss aligned, will that cause low A/C voltage output?

If yes, I'm pulling this fucker again.

 

I do have a multimeter, and there is definitely power going to the pump. she was HOT when I first touched her. of course whatever failed happened while we were out of town. I tested the capacitor and got nothing so im assuming it was that. I have one coming from EBAY and hoping that solves my problem. $30 vs ~$800 ill take it! the pressure tank didn't have any pressure in it last time I tried everything out, would that cause it to not run too? I know there's a pressure switch but didn't know it wouldn't turn on with no pressure. thats good to know. ill have to get some pressure in it before trying it out in a few days. The tank is above the whole pump assembly if thats what you were asking.

EDIT: according to the one picture I had in the thread it had pressure in it, but I think the gauge was stuck. I tapped around on some things and it dropped back to zero.