What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

A Front Diff Drain (and Fill) Plug that Doesn’t Suck

 

Anyone know how much life these friction disks have? I can’t remember what it looked like new.

 

If I'm not mistaken, aren't those round dots the wear indicators? Like when it wears down to one of those, its time to change or something. At least that's what I gathered from Timmy's video on clutch change.

 

Looks like you're pretty good to your clutch, that has lots of life left. Though it does feel a bit off to put an old clutch in while you've got things apart.

 

That's all I needed to hear. While I agree, I don't like spending money to spend money. This is 68k miles in 8 years of use, and now the truck pretty much only gets driven to go wheel so I a probably looking at another 8 years (especially with how much wheeling got reduced with the kid mod)

 

I finally found my spot. Newbie to this site, but not Toyota's. I finally drove my '96 to work (without a front bumper). Here's my build post: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tacoma-project-1996-4x4.768168/#post-27556730
I plan on doing so much more to this girl. I have the 5-speed ready to convert it, just need a clutch pedal and figure out the whole hydraulic thing. Truck has 253,000 miles and this was Day 1 vs. yesterday:

 

Anyone have any experience with Cooper Evolution M/T?

Looks like the pattern is more hybrid M/T-A/T (like Duratrac) than their STT Pro.

I know a lot of people with Maxx and Pro, but I don't think I've heard anyone talk about the Evolution.

 

I just finished putting in a new clutch and replacing the oil pump seal. I wrote some notes on my process on my build thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1995-5-2-7-manual-4x4-vermont-transplant.607411/

On my test drive today I unfortunately found that I didn't lose the nasty clickity clack I've been hearing (thought it was the clutch before). Upon further investigation, I think it's coming from my front passenger suspension. It's wheelspeed dependent, and pretty much goes away over about 15mph (or you just can't hear it), but it's loud enough to be embarrassing when I find myself in stop and go traffic.

I crawled under there to see what's what and the only thing that seemed loose (without jacking up the truck) was this aluminium cylinder thing on the back side of the knuckle. It was loose on both driver and passenger sides, but on the passenger side it clickity clacks as you're wiggling it. Is that the likely culprit? Or am I way off base?

 

I can't tell if you are pointing to the cv boot clamps or the lower ball joints?

 

Slick Rock Part 1

https://youtu.be/lMIziOvO7qw



Gunna have to do the rest after we get back from another run this weekend

 

It's the CV axle. I've been dancing around that being the culprit already. Doesn't sound like a wheel bearing. I just don't understand how a CV axle can go bad if the hubs are freewheeling all the time. I've probably only driven 10 miles with them locked this year.

 

nvm gentlemen, I think I found the problem. Here's what the inside of the forward ujoint on my rear driveshaft looks like.

You can't really see it, but there's a shredded boot in there. I wish I could figure out how to upload a video, there's quite a lot of clickity clacking coming from there.

EDIT: I figured out how to post a video

 

That piece falling out right on cue

 

is that a rare rear driveshaft I've got there on the right? after a little searching, I'm not finding anything on rebuilding or replacing the cv joint at all. no parts listed/available from Toyota, either.



I found another thread where the OP called it a "double cardan" joint, and talked about how most 1st gens had 2-piece rear driveshafts with a carrier bearing. He also mentioned it's not rebuildable https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-rear-drive-shaft-u-joints-help.466721/

 

From all my experience, those double cardan's are not rebuildable. You can buy good used ones for $50 at Marlin Crawler. I don't work for them or get a penny, just was considering putting a double cardan on my rear driveshaft on my 4Runner and this is where I was going to get it from. You just take your driveshaft and the double cardan from MC and have the driveshaft shop weld the newer one in place, then speed balance it. Probably cost about $200.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/discounted-parts/cv-joint-double-cardan-cores

 

This is the post you need to read:

Double Cardan joint

Out of curiosity, when's the last time you greased that middle zerk for the double cardan?

Edit: I also don't believe there's any boot or seal in there, wonder if you're looking at old grease?

 

Thanks for that thread.

I've only owned the rig for 22k miles, and that's all highway. I put the grease to them zerks when I bought it, and one time since. No idea when that was or the mileage. I'm thinking the grease I used wasn't up to the task - with cheap grease I probably should have been pumpin em full every oil change, but... if that's a factory part, it's certainly done it's time. 240k miles ain't bad.

 

Could bring it to a local driveline shop and have it replaced

 

I'd really rather have stock toyota parts where possible, and I highly doubt my local driveline shop would adhere to that at all.

I've found some good leads on used driveshafts, so I'm chasing that route first. If I can find a used 1-piece and clean it up, maybe I'll rebuild mine and keep it for a spare.

That link Squeaky Penguin shared is great, but it seems like you can buy an entire used driveshaft for the price of rebuilding the CV thing. We'll see. I'll be surprised considering I'd thought they were rare, but it's looking promising.

 

Disclaimer... I'm not sure of the correct names for the different types of drive shafts, so bear with me and feel free to correct me.

With all this "rare" talk I think you're making it out to be more mysterious than it actually is. You've got a standard cab truck. The shorter wheelbase means it has a simpler driveshaft with no carrier bearing. Extended and double cab trucks get a split driveshaft with a carrier bearing in the middle.

Standard cabs are certainly less common than extended and double cabs, but they're out there.

I'm not sure, but the drive shaft length might vary between engine and transmission options. @Speedytech7 probably knows.