regear for only $170! (?)

Are the cheap Mini kits good enough to slap some 4.10 gears in? Revolution says they are.

"Revolution Gear and Axle's Minimum Install Kits comes with the basic pieces needed to install a new Ring and Pinion gear set."

I have two spare sets of bearings (both diffs), working; one low miles, one higher miles

 

How does that regear the diff?

 

I believe OP is inquiring about the quality of the accessory install kit.

Cheap and gears do not work well together IMO. I'd be looking at a kit like this from Rogue (and others).

 

Title makes is sound like he found gears for 170

 

Does it include a AAA or Matt's Offroad discount card?

 

Mini instal kit, is just that. Not all the parts you need to do a complete rebuild of the diff. If you're low milage, the bearings are still probably good, this replaces most of the rest. No ring and pinion, the biggest expense.
Try it, tell us how it went.....

 

That’s what I thought.

 

not really thinking about the gear set
Picked them up a while ago approx $300

Which is cheaper either way than shops wanting $2-3k to put no lockers

post says 2 mini kits are $170 (they are). Post asks if the mini kits are enough to install 4.10 gears

you need an install kit to put gears, such as shims, crush sleeve, etc

not sure what good gears cost. Revolution is out of stock. If it’s not crazy I’d consider 4.56. But already have 4.10 and trying to figure out if there’s a cheap way to put them in.
Regarding labor time I don’t mind giving up a day to do it

I have two full f/r sets of bearings. The set I’m currently driving on with 150k and keep good gear oil changed in it. And the set that came with the 4.10’s that have 60k and weren’t beat on. Some consider 60k low miles, others consider only sub-30k to be low miles such as someone regearing a modded new 3rd gen

I believe ECGS lists the option to use “good used bearings”

True. I can do that if needed. I’ve seen multiple places with both mini install kits ($90) and master install kits ($300+) the difference appearing to be master has new bearings.
I just don’t know if it’s necessary to go master over mini

if a diff is set up properly regarding spin torque, shim adjustment, paint mark pattern, etc I don’t see why it matters to have new bearings versus a used set that worked without issue.

I know some shops always sell new parts because they make money off it. And it’s faster to quickly damage, remove, and throw out an old part, than to carefully remove to try and re use it. And makes it easier to have a long warranty on a new part. But ECGS still might have their warranty even if “good used bearings”, I imagine due to their focus being on correct installation, as opposed to incorrect. That and a shop not wanting to lose money on a warranty claim, having more faith that new bearings will function properly. Because if the customer does spend $3k on the job, they still make money on labor and there’s really nothing to lose.

 

From the picture, it looks like the mini kit doesn't include new carrier bearings. If your diff is lower miles and your able to press the old bearings off without damaging them in order to reuse them, then you should be good. I buddy of mine a few years back took his lower mileage Tacoma to a shop to have it regeared and they were able to use mini kits since he only had like 25k on his truck at the time. Made it considerably cheaper

 

exactly. If it was a new 3rd gen I’d try that. But, the truck bearings have 160k on them, still work (daily drive it), and “taken care of”. In that I’ve kept gear oil in it. Only drawback is I didn’t buy the truck until 130k used. Previous owner didn’t appear to beat on it. But there’s no way to know if they changed the gear oil before that or how important it is. While I’ve seen tons of vehicles get no gear oil changed, or their first one at 100k, and still work, it’s still worth it to do it earlier with no downside.

And the second set of bearings I have is somewhat low miles with good gear oil changed and no abuse, with 60k

it may not be much more cost for a pinion bearing only, without the ring bearings. They even have medium kits made for that, to be used if it exhibits issue such as noise and needs replacing. Which i could do later if it develops an issue (not that i want to)

 

Personally. If you’re pulling the 3rd member I’d buy the master kit. Spend the extra and know the new set is good to go. Piece of mind is worth it.

 

I would offer same advice as @gotoman1969 with that high of miles. Regearing is a fair amount of work, especially for someone not rebuilding them regularly. It makes sense to me to do a full rebuild. Both trucks I’ve regeared, I went through this dilemma over and over and the most cost effective way I found to Regear was through ECGS and swapping the diffs myself.

 

wrong forum champ.

 

yeah I get it. ECGS’s big warranty is appealing. I heard they even sent a guy a Dana after he kept breaking and warrantying upgraded Tacoma axles. Never heard of customer service like that.

if I’m gonna pay the big bucks $3k of having someone else do it then it’s gonna have to/may as well get lockers at the same time.

not sure what’s better ARB air locker or Harrop/Eaton e locker which is more common to Australia. ZUK @ gearinstalls prefers the Harrop.
I’ve heard ARB air locker is quicker to engage in any circumstance than Harrop; simply push the button. But I don’t know how true that is.

if the Harrop is anything like my stock 4HI/LO electric button in that it can be finicky and work/prefer certain conditions. I would hope not.

I’m sure it would climb MUCH better than now/stock which is mech LSD rear and open front. Sometimes I have to give momentum into a climb because of that which I’m sure runs the risk of damaging parts like bending a tie rod or spindle from the hit, hard on wheel bearings, etc instead of just simply slowly but surely climbing up fully locked even if there’s some tire spin; just means the tires are looking for grip which they’ll eventually find with the right line


Was only considering install kits to try DIY cheap the first time. Even if master kit, that’s $300/ea, still much cheaper than sending it out. To slap in the 4.10’s (maybe 4.56/35” later) for some better accel and mpg.
I work at a shop so I already have a torque wrench, press, dial indicator, and the experience of engine rebuild etc which I hear is just as complex (an engine rebuild may or may not be complex based on what exactly you do to it) so at this point regear is at least a skill I want to learn and would feel like an accomplishment if I pull it off

not to mention the guy who sold me his 4.10’s said he regeared himself, that it was doable, and the fact his truck pulled up to make the sale tells me it’s driving well.
Install kits also often come with instructions and guides on how to read optimal paint mark, not to mention the tons of online guides including but not limited to zuk @ gearinstalls website

 

It’s sounds like you have all the tools and the skill set. You just have to be patient with setting up your shims as it’s a trial and error process that can be very redundant. The part that always kept be from doing it myself was setting up the backlash properly.

 

yes assemble and dis-assemble diff to test lash/etc. and adjust shims properly requires a lot of attempts/time; hopefully between whatever parts are in the truck, came with the 4.10's, and come with the install kits include enough good quality shims to work. I've heard some shim kits to be lacking, or even people shaving them down if needed.
Saw a post where

Really wanted to buy spare cores to set up and then swap in fast. Because having extra diffs means no rush at all to get it right, and no consequence for not having it fully set up in one day.
But junkyards want $1200 for both diffs on what's almost a 20yo basic vehicle, with high miles. On something they probably bought totaled at the insurance auction nearby for a few grand. Insane
No idea why there is a "market price" average on carpartcom for a part that basically nobody ever buys. Not exactly a "hot item" that gets crash damaged or fails often requiring replacement.
Last time I bought diffs on a vehicle (different model) years ago was a few hundred for 3.
Maybe it's time to waste a day or two walking through every Pick-N-Pull

One thing I know I may be lacking a bit is press sleeves. I have maybe 10, and a puller. Was thinking of buying this kit, though the reviews say the sleeves break easily
No idea where those certain shops with a vast collection of sleeves get them from, unless they just collect races from different vehicles any time they do wheel bearings over the years (rears can use a large inner and outer sleeve and be stronger than fronts depending on model)