Crashnburn80's 1st Gen TRD Double Cab Build

Definitely agreed. If I went 15s it would be the tri-spokes for sure. That is what I ran on my last 1st Gen. I do like the tri-spokes in their brushed aluminum finish best.

 

Waxed it for the first time today. I usually like to do 1-2 coats of scratch remover applied on all spots as needed followed by 2 coats hand waxed. Only had time for 1 of each today with some extra spot treatments. Always love how a little waxing and detailing brings old paint back to life.





What I typically use. Scratch remover as needed first, covered with wax second to make it last longer.


I need to get some back to black product for the flares.

 

Yea… you reminded me gears are probably next for my tundra after going 30.06 to pretty much 33s… yay, more money lol

 

I know a guy…

 

Indeed you do.
But the headers really woke it up and my mileage hasn’t suffered at all. So as of now it’s fine. But it’ll happen soon. 3.91 gears are meh. And the LSD is getting weak (but still working) so a rebuild of the LSD and shorter gears would be nice.


As of now at 80MPH I’m sitting at like 2500rpm on the ol thing.

 

Don’t rebuild the LSD! Truetrac torsion LSD and never look back. Stronger and better LSD in every way and doesn’t wear out.

 

That’s the other option. I’m still a few months at least from doing it.
I’ve got a part out to do, an mr2 to rebuild a transmission for, and other things first lol

 

I’m excited to get the 2002 to you for an eval once it’s ready. I really haven’t stressed it yet because the suspension hasn’t been done.

Are headers less of a smog problem outside of California or is it really just Illinois who DGAF about exhaust mods?

 

80% of American doesn’t care. I have emissions. But as long as my check engine lights off I’m good



well I take that back, my tundra doesn’t need emissions and I have no clue why.

 

I am not a fan of headers at all. OEM headers/manifolds are designed for sound suppression, typically this means using cast parts as the material weight will offer superior sound deadening. In 2nd Gen they did an interesting double wall tube design to offer similar sound deadening with reduced weight and increased performance. Aftermarket headers are all simple single tube. This means the loudest part of the exhaust system will have the least sound suppression qualities, greatly reduced from stock, which translates to significant noise increase in the cab. I've done them multiple times on Toyotas. Not something I would do again. Power gains can be had, particularly in quality equal length headers, but unless it is a dedicated high speed rig, it is not worth it on something as a regular/daily driver IMO.

 

After an initial “it’s been mounted so it’s not returnable” response from the wheel vendor, they agreed to exchange the poorly refinished wheel. Sounds like it should ship in roughly a week.

Pic from the morning kid drop off.

 

What about the super important question of bulbs for CHMSL? My 5s attempt to search says maybe 168’s? We have a favorite there?

 

Why would you deviate from stock for the 3rd brake light?

 

I was asking about replacement bulbs for

$84 81570-04030 Stop Lamp Assembly

81570-04030 which I can’t quite tell if it’s the same as used on your first gen. At some point after 20 years of use I figure the bulbs are worth replacing.

And I see it is possible to buy OEM spec bulbs as 90981-12010

 

I believe all Tacoma's (95-current and likely the 94 pickup) use the same 168 bulb in the 3rd brake light, though the assemblies vary by generation. I'm not sure what the OEM bulb brand was, but for this application picking up some basic Sylvania bulbs at the local autoparts store would be fine IMO. You could pay more for a Philips bulb, or even Hella bulbs, but I don't see the point as they will all be similar. Note when looking at replacement guides that promote LEDs, the 3rd brake light is often listed as a 194 bulb because the base and bulb shape are the same as 168 and the LEDs are more generic in nature. However, in incandescent the 194 is a lower output bulb than the 168. A 168 is 4.9w vs the 194 at 3.8w, so you want the OEM spec 168. Just a reminder to pay attention to where you are getting your fitment specs for the bulb type. Incandescent bulbs do dim 20%+ over time so if the bulbs are old a simple fresh set of 168s will be a small performance improvement plus reset the clock on the 1500 hour lifespan.

 

The truck has a few small scratches and chips in the paint I'd like to touch up. I ordered a factory matched paint touch up paint pen from here:
https://touchuppaintfactory.com

There were two beige shades listed, though I'd clearly call mine gold. The paint is sold by paint code, mine is 4P7.

The factory paint code is listed right above the axle code on the door jamb sticker. Using the example from above, the paint code on this sticker is 1C8, silver.

 

I was torn on getting a set of the 16" tri spokes for my '04 but eventually settled on the 5-stars.

I know black is so common but I've been running black wheels on my cars since '91. I'm a sucker for the look.

 

Ummm, excuse me, but that's "Lunar Mist Metallic" thank you very much.

Be careful about touchuppaintfactory, I ordered paint from them and it wasn't even close to the 1C8 on my truck. Now granted:

1. The paint on my truck has been oxidizing for 18 years so...

2. When I had my topper sprayed to color match, the body shop said there are 14 variations of 1C8 from Toyota. Some are more cool/silver/blue, some are more warm/gold/silver... mine is somewhere closer to the warm/gold/silver variation.

 

All valid points! TBD on the quality of the color match.

 

So why go 1st gen this time over getting another 2nd gen?