1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Slip yoke issues!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by mluckey, Jul 16, 2022.

  1. Jul 16, 2022 at 2:10 PM
    #1
    mluckey

    mluckey [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Member:
    #121233
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2004 AND 2003 2.7L Tacoma PreRunner, AT, Ext. Cab
    OK,

    2004 Prerunner auto.

    I took off the rear driveshaft section to change the rear U-joint. An easy and successful weekend project. Used no special tools other than shop vice. GREAT!

    Next, I went to put everything (finished/assembled yoke) back in, and it lines up with my marks and slide up to where it enters the main shaft....and stops. I removed it, re-lubed it, and same thing. No amount of pushing can get it to slide past the opening. I cleaned it twice and still the same

    What am i missing?

    Mark
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2022
  2. Jul 16, 2022 at 3:38 PM
    #2
    mluckey

    mluckey [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Member:
    #121233
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2004 AND 2003 2.7L Tacoma PreRunner, AT, Ext. Cab
    Update! The female part had a burr on the inside. It explains why the U-joint wore out so quickly.

    When i bought the truck, the receipts showed a new, rear u-joint. The burr prevented the yoke from slipping and kept a LOT of pressure on the u-join, and it killed it.

    I used some emery cloth to smooth out the bur, cleaned it out with carb cleaner, then applied silicone lube on both parts. Next, I used a ratchet strap to pull the parts together, by wrapping the strap around the inside of the yokes to not put stress on the joints. Worked like a charm, and it fully inserted

    Mark
     
    Madjik_Man likes this.
  3. Jul 17, 2022 at 6:21 AM
    #3
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2010
    Member:
    #45512
    Messages:
    2,330
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    1998 Limited
    If you had to use a ratchet strap to pull the yoke onto the driveshaft, I'd say you still have a problem.
     
    Bivouac likes this.
  4. Jul 17, 2022 at 6:45 AM
    #4
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2021
    Member:
    #376253
    Messages:
    11,588
    Northern Lehigh Valley Pa
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma 5 speed 3.4
    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along
    Ratchet strap to force a slip joint !!

    Something is still very wrong it should slide right in.

    It did have the correct grease when you pulled it apart the first time?
     
  5. Jul 17, 2022 at 7:03 AM
    #5
    maineah

    maineah Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2011
    Member:
    #53641
    Messages:
    6,803
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tim
    Maine
    Vehicle:
    4X4 SR5 V6 6spd
    Some where in that setup they has to be a pressure relief for the slip joint a hole in the yoke end is most common if you have ever see a tool to unplug a grease fitting that you hit with a hammer will give you the ideal of how much pressure grease can produce. It doesn't compress.
     
  6. Jul 17, 2022 at 7:08 AM
    #6
    Bivouac

    Bivouac Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2021
    Member:
    #376253
    Messages:
    11,588
    Northern Lehigh Valley Pa
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma 5 speed 3.4
    Remains to be seen I bought the tires and wheels the rest came along
    Yes indeed most have the hole in the center of the yoke to purge the extra grease.

    The air would need to also be purged as the joint is put together.

    I wonder if that hole is blocked causing the slip joint to need forced in the OP`s case?
     
  7. Jul 17, 2022 at 7:21 AM
    #7
    Gyrkin

    Gyrkin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2017
    Member:
    #227041
    Messages:
    2,391
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Steve
    Wyoming
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma TRD v6 5-speed
    Pull the zerk fitting before putting it together. This will allow trapped air to escape.
     
  8. Jul 17, 2022 at 1:53 PM
    #8
    mluckey

    mluckey [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2014
    Member:
    #121233
    Messages:
    84
    Gender:
    Male
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2004 AND 2003 2.7L Tacoma PreRunner, AT, Ext. Cab
    Thanks for the comments, guys!

    I havn't driven the truck much since I got it three years ago (bought it sight-unseen). It's mainly for work and hauling bikes, and I'm still working out kinks.

    I originally pulled this apart because the U-joint had tons of play in all directions, and I could feel it vibrating badly at all times. After reinstalling it, I still have vibrations (pretty noticeable), and now it ONLY vibrates under hard braking. I'm guessing it's axle wrap causing a bad pinion angle? I'm eliminating brake drums because they're new Centric units. Could still be drums I suppose but not likely warped that badly.

    So.................

    Here's what I did this time

    -I did remove the zerk
    -some sort of green, odd looking clumpy grease was in the part when I pulled it apart
    -there WAS a small lip/bur, likely caused by rusting in-place. I say this because the Burr/Ridge was circular in form, around the inside. There was pitting on the male side as well
    -I likely could have pushed the two pieces together, but it required more than I'd like to push at the weird angle under the truck. Once it cleared the ridge/burr/rust stop it wen waaay easier.
    -The joint is moving now, as evidenced by more of the shaft showing than when I installed it which was 5 miles ago
    -I cleaned and lubed both parts with Timken AL78242 (since I have tons of it laying around for the track car

    Anyone got ideas on the vibrations when braking?? I haven't measured the angles yet, and I need to check the springs. They look like stock springs with 4 leaves, and are marked "4C". They don't seem to be sagging, and look almost new.

    Mark
     
  9. Jul 18, 2022 at 7:30 AM
    #9
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2010
    Member:
    #45512
    Messages:
    2,330
    Gender:
    Male
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    1998 Limited
    Time to start a new thread...
     

Products Discussed in

To Top