Slip yoke issues!

OK,

2004 Prerunner auto.

I took off the rear driveshaft section to change the rear U-joint. An easy and successful weekend project. Used no special tools other than shop vice. GREAT!

Next, I went to put everything (finished/assembled yoke) back in, and it lines up with my marks and slide up to where it enters the main shaft....and stops. I removed it, re-lubed it, and same thing. No amount of pushing can get it to slide past the opening. I cleaned it twice and still the same

What am i missing?

Mark

 

Update! The female part had a burr on the inside. It explains why the U-joint wore out so quickly.

When i bought the truck, the receipts showed a new, rear u-joint. The burr prevented the yoke from slipping and kept a LOT of pressure on the u-join, and it killed it.

I used some emery cloth to smooth out the bur, cleaned it out with carb cleaner, then applied silicone lube on both parts. Next, I used a ratchet strap to pull the parts together, by wrapping the strap around the inside of the yokes to not put stress on the joints. Worked like a charm, and it fully inserted

Mark

 

If you had to use a ratchet strap to pull the yoke onto the driveshaft, I'd say you still have a problem.

 

Ratchet strap to force a slip joint !!

Something is still very wrong it should slide right in.

It did have the correct grease when you pulled it apart the first time?

 

Some where in that setup they has to be a pressure relief for the slip joint a hole in the yoke end is most common if you have ever see a tool to unplug a grease fitting that you hit with a hammer will give you the ideal of how much pressure grease can produce. It doesn't compress.

 

Yes indeed most have the hole in the center of the yoke to purge the extra grease.

The air would need to also be purged as the joint is put together.

I wonder if that hole is blocked causing the slip joint to need forced in the OP`s case?

 

Pull the zerk fitting before putting it together. This will allow trapped air to escape.

 

Thanks for the comments, guys!

I havn't driven the truck much since I got it three years ago (bought it sight-unseen). It's mainly for work and hauling bikes, and I'm still working out kinks.

I originally pulled this apart because the U-joint had tons of play in all directions, and I could feel it vibrating badly at all times. After reinstalling it, I still have vibrations (pretty noticeable), and now it ONLY vibrates under hard braking. I'm guessing it's axle wrap causing a bad pinion angle? I'm eliminating brake drums because they're new Centric units. Could still be drums I suppose but not likely warped that badly.

So.................

Here's what I did this time

-I did remove the zerk
-some sort of green, odd looking clumpy grease was in the part when I pulled it apart
-there WAS a small lip/bur, likely caused by rusting in-place. I say this because the Burr/Ridge was circular in form, around the inside. There was pitting on the male side as well
-I likely could have pushed the two pieces together, but it required more than I'd like to push at the weird angle under the truck. Once it cleared the ridge/burr/rust stop it wen waaay easier.
-The joint is moving now, as evidenced by more of the shaft showing than when I installed it which was 5 miles ago
-I cleaned and lubed both parts with Timken AL78242 (since I have tons of it laying around for the track car

Anyone got ideas on the vibrations when braking?? I haven't measured the angles yet, and I need to check the springs. They look like stock springs with 4 leaves, and are marked "4C". They don't seem to be sagging, and look almost new.

Mark

 

Time to start a new thread...