^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

The PPS would give inaccurate positions to fic6. As you we'll know if you stomp the throttle the throttle plate doesn't open at the same speed. It opens slower.

Have you done any data recording to analyze?

 

No. I don’t know where to start or what I’m looking for. I wish I had the tools and knowledge to look at each signal and determine if it’s clean and in spec.

it’s like the AEM is confusing the OEM ECU, or vise versa, especially when there is a idle up command. It’s like they’re fighting for control.

The ECU should be totally unaware that anything is going on and even with no modifications on any map in that area its all confused.

Thats 2 of us that have issues with the ETCSi Throttle bodies. Sounds like a trend.

 

I am not sure if this is the same thing as what you are seeing, but on mine the Haltech software reads ~0.5v lower than the OBDII does through the scan gauge and a multi-meter at the battery. Makes no sense to me.

No ETCSi here.

 

I Tapped the TPS for input. But I’m curious if if really needs it. Not using tip in.

 

That’s about what I see. I guess I can kind of rule that out.

 

@mechanicjon. Do you have your MAF intercepted?

 

Update:

I ended up removing the MAF and no longer have the TPS tapped.

TPS could still probably be re-attached.

seems to have solved that issue. I was always suspicious of MAF noise to being with when my trims were very different before and after FIC.

Anybody have any idea if it’s possible to rent a Oscilloscope? I would would like to verify and try and learn something useful.

 

I have an oscilloscope. Are you wanting Maf signal after fic6?

 

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Yeah, that was the plan anyway. Still messing with it.

while the inconsistent idle seems to have gone away my fuel trims and AFR have also changed. It’s all complicated by the fact that I just had a new cat installed today.

Before all this and without the AEM my trims were near zero from idle all the way up.

I might still need the TPS but I’m not sure how much the FIC uses it unless you’re using tip-in or TPS as a value on a map.

 

I still think you need to properly wire the crank rpm signal. Could be wrong, but that's where I would start.

I've heard the 03-04 is more troubled than previous years.

I dont think you need Tps like you said since Map based input. Could be wrong again.

Maybe post images of your maps.

 

My maps keep changing as I’m just trying to keep it from the transitional bucking, hesitation. That’s proving to be difficult.

The idle fluctuations are gone ever since I wired the MAF back to factory.

Based on what I’ve seen I believe the FICs interpretation of the MAF is not benign when simply passing through and no changes being made. My fuel trims were effected all the way through closed loop. Simply putting the smallest value on the entire map fixed the trims everywhere but idle. So that’s why I assumed there’s some sort of signal noise creating that issue.

I’m not sure if the TPS had anything to do with that but I do know the ECTS-I system is very temperamental Based on the issues I already have experienced with it I’d rather make sure it’s not a factor.

mad far as the TPS is concerned the setting menu does seem to indicate it’s need for fueling. But I’m not sure if that only specific to the tip in or if it’s also relied on for the fuel map as well.

Hex file z107 simply does not work. I’m using z104 right now. I have not really tried z110 but I don’t think its going to work any better based on other Toyota platforms not jiving well with it.


Based on all my testing the only way I could get the O2 map is using voltage mode, high level drive, and imputing the voltage rather than using the “easy AFR” feature.

It goes to 3v from 16-17 then to 2.5v 18-19 and then 2v on up all the way across the RPM range.

Fueling is much more difficult. The last value I used was 3% starting around 16pisa all the way up and across. This seems to keep my trims near zero after the initial STFT dump from the FIC suddenly changing the voltage to the AF1.

So the issues persist in the transition area, just fluctuating. Unless I’m well into boost.

I did try to smooth from 0% at 15pisa to 3% 4-5 rows up to see if a smooth transition would help. But the ECU ain’t easy to slip past.

I’m now considering just getting a RRFPR to keep fueled.

Im sure there’s a way to get it all jive but I think it would take some work on what the signals look like going in and using resistors or other electronic black magic to make it mirror the input.

I will add that despite SplitSeconds headaches and limitations their “AFR box” is much better at producing a smooth and repeatable result.

 

I'd have to look at my laptop, I can't remember everything. Mine is narrow band tho, so can't give a direct comparison. I dont think I have fuel added until a couple rows up, was able to pull off part throttle low boost with Offset mode. -.400, -.406 -.411 if I remember correctly, as the rows rise above 15psia.

Also you might need to input the O2 high and low voltages in the Settings table. High level drive is correct for your stock sensor.

I am not viewing as Afr either.

Good luck on this!

 

I can post my file if you want to try it. Truck runs smooth all the way thru. Just the intermittent idle fluxuation. I'll do a log of data also.

 

Sounds good to me. Thank you.

 

My cal file is pretty simple.

 

Thank you. I’ll give it a go.

 

Where are you guys finding the AEM 30-1910 F/IC 6 these days, nowhere has them...

 

Been discontinued for years now. eBay but be extremely careful as there’s a ton of fakes.