Official Crawlbox BS thread!

I didn't see them on the website but maybe, I'll check again. Thanks.

Yea that's what I'm thinking may be easiest, thanks

 

it was trail fail not Merlin sorry. They don’t have the ring but have the rails and fork. At that price it’s probably easier to source a donor case from a pick n pull

https://trail-gear.com/top-shift-t-case-conversion-kit.html

 

I think you're right, seen a few full cases going for 150

 

If you can get a rf1a for 150, you better jump on that deal. They average 300 depending on condition.

 

Bent passenger lower link?

 

Yeah both are bent. 2”x.25 isn’t strong enough. Either I’ll get some 2.5x.5 wall and try that or sleep some 2”x.25 wall with aluminum. I don’t remember hitting them either but they’re all scraped up

 

Odd question, do 1st gen tacomas need a speed sensor and kickdown cable to move? Mine won’t have either but still have the auto ecu so wondering if that’s going to cause issues. I don’t need the speedometer to work right away but getting short on time.

 

not sure what a kickdown cable is, but i believe the transmission has it's own speed sensor used for shifting and locking up the torque converter.

 

Yeah I’ve unplugged that before and ran it without that so I know it’ll work with the transmission unplugged. New transmission doesn’t have any electronics or lockup so trying to determine if the ecu will think something is wrong and put it in like limp mode or not send power without the lockdown to the throttle and the other electronics

 

I'm not 100% sure on that for a first gen, worst case scenario you could probably find an ECU from a 5 speed and it would work with no question. But likely that could be a larger project due to pinout changes on different connectors potentially.

 

Yeah I had someone else suggest just finding the wiring for the neutral safety switch and wiring that to always on maki g the computer think it’s in neutral all the time which would work

 

That may work for engine starting yes, here's what I have for the description of controls. I don't think back then there was enough sophistication where the transmission status affected the engine control other than for starting purposes only, but I could be wrong.

 

Thanks for those. Those should come in handy if it doesn’t work how I think it will

 

No problem, that was for a 2000. I know you have an 01 but I'm not sure what year the wiring changed, if it did here is the same schematics for a 2003. Between those two, you should be covered. Toyota usually keeps the functions the same but changes wire colors between years for the same generation. I know for the 2nd gens, there are 3 different years of schematics. Just check your pinouts to see what color matches and you should be good.

 

You won't have limp mode or issues like that, but you will need to do some wiring or else you won't have a starting circuit, reverse lights, or cruise control. When I did my 5-speed swap (not a 1st gen Tacoma but a 3rd gen 4Runner, so I assume it's all the same), I kept the auto ECU in it for a little while before I was able to get the manual ECU working right (immobilizer issues, but that's an entirely different topic). Other than the few CELs the auto ECU threw for "transmission shift solenoid malfunctions" and things of that sort (obviously since the A/T wasn't there anymore), the auto ECU ran perfectly.

For wiring the things above, I created a thread on the 4Runner forum going over all of this, I suggest you read through the first post (link ), it should be pretty easy to get everything working on your rig.

 

What does the starting circuit do? Based off the name I’m assuming that’s what starts the trucks and it won’t start without doing that wiring? I’ve already stripped the cruis control and not worried about the reverse lights and the cel light is always on from no cats and other things so the main thing I’m concerned about is if the truck will drive without any of the electronics on the transmission (new transmission is a full manual automatic) and an auto ecu.

 

Your auto ECU won't allow your engine to turn over unless your transmission is either in park or neutral (hence the name Park/Neutral Safety Switch). To bypass this, it's as simple as jumping the wires at the 5 & 6 positions, just cut those two wires before the switch, and tie them together. Completing the circuit there will tell the ECU it's safe to start, and allow your engine to turn over.



Note - your switch connector may not look exactly like this (I'm really not sure what they look like on Tacomas, this is how it looks on my 99 4Runner), so you may have to check an EWD for your specific vehicle. It should be the two thickest wires though, all the other wires are a little thinner.

 

Can anyone recommend an installer in SoCal for a TG crawlbox going to a 2018 Tacoma?

 

I’m going to be converting my main t-case from a push button 4x4 hybrid case to a full j-shift case during my eco-crawler install. Are any of you 1st gen guys familiar with the wiring required to keep my ADD actuator and 4x4 dash light functioning?

 

for anyone that has installed a NWF ecobox, how noisy is it? my inchworm crawl box with 4.7 gears isnt the quietest thing on the planet and was wondering if the Ecobox is quieter? thought about maybe swapping in the future but would only do it if its not as noisy.