1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Haltech can output OBDII, just saying...

 

Well I asked about that somewhere else and nobody could give me an answer if it actually did the testing. It supports accessories is all I got

 

subbed.... I'm looking to do a turbo build in the future after I finish compiling all the parts. I currently have an FIC 6 that was slotted to be the tuning platform, but I don't know the first thing about tuning. I would be interested in some Megasquirt info if there is anyone out there running it. Thanks for creating this thread Zane

 

Err my point was that CO testing isn't very strict or consistent across the state like CA is.

@JasonLee there's always the option of driving past the roadside monitor on 3? separate days each year to skip having to go to a station. They publish a schedule online for roadsides

 

Haltech you can remove that MAF section and add a 3.5” tube instead

 

I get what you are saying but unfortunately it's not quite that simple. Sure, it's possible to use a larger intake tube but by default, the Haltech still needs part of the MAF's functions. So as was mentioned earlier, an alternative IAT sensor would have to be added.

There is also the vulnerability of the so called cold air intakes (K&N like cone filters) in the offroad environment. ATM I am inclined to keep the OEM airbox, even with all of it's flaws, for it's ability to use the Toyota paper filters and try to figure out how to best remove, or reduce it's inherent air flow restrictions.

 

Turbo build is always a good choice, there's a lot you'll learn out of necessity and as long as you're willing to do some research it won't be a problem.... most of it is fairly easy but the info you need can be obscure on the taco as a platform. Thankfully a lot of what many of us are doing on here with Haltech will apply directly to MegaSquirt. I am an amateur with MegaSquirt (only helped tweak the setup on a turbo BMW E30 with one) but my buddy who is also a tuner happens to love them and his 700hp 300ZX is powered by a MegaSquirt gold box. So I'm sure I could always run stuff by him if there are specific questions. I know @boostedka used to use a MegaSquirt2 as well maybe he could help us in the future.

 

So we really just don't want any sections of tubing smaller than the throttle body in the intake tract, we can achieve that fairly easy. The MAF is doing absolutely nothing as a mass airflow sensor, only the intake air temp sensor (which is built into the MAF) is being utilized by the Haltech (you are tuned using VE modeling which by definition doesn't need a MAF). I have some things in my garage we can use to delete the MAF portion of your airbox while retaining a spot to put your new GM IAT and keep your stock filter box portion.

 

This seems like a better way to go. Just getting rid of the MAF itself will remove most of the restrictions.

I ordered one of those GM IAT kits btw.

 

Gotta love Haltech, they have the calibration for the GM IAT built right in, I don't even have to make a resistance plot for it. Be about 5 mins of wiring to have it functioning.

 

You don’t need any part of the MAF if you wanted to delete it.
I have a separate wire for the intake temperature from the haltech and haltech has its own temperature sensor.
You can mount that sensor on the out put side of the supercharger for the real temperature going into the engine or the intake tube.

The MAF temperature on a supercharger is completely different than the actually temperature going into the engine by as much as 50 degrees depending.
If you have a temperature sensor on the output side of the supercharger you would see the difference.
Sometimes the output side of the compressed air is as high as 200 degrees

I have not added that sensor yet, my MAF is not used in my situation.

here is a hot summer day around 100 degrees, intake temp at MAF is 114 and supercharger compressed output air is 141 degrees with no load.

 

Where is the sensor your Haltech is reading located, pre or post supercharger? Technically speaking you want them after the boost but that's not easy to achieve with the SC.

 

The 1st gen has casting holes that are threaded that are after and super easy to get to and you can use the haltech sensor

 

Oh the ones for getting to the bolts that hold it on? That makes sense. The Haltech sensor is the GM one haha, both made by delphi, theirs is just M14 instead of 3/8NPT.

 

Not the hold down bolts no,

Here, there are two casting screws block outs, holds nothing but plugs the holes.
One on either side as shown in red, sensor is on the back side.
This area is boosted hot air that can be tapped into IF you the correct temperature.

you don’t have to use a temp sensor if you don’t want too, there is a setting to bypass it,
It’s not as accurate of course

 

I know you can bypass the temp but the tune kinda falls apart in stability. Air density changes a ton with even a 10* temp difference. So the MAP acting alone without a temp sender leads to a tune that's unstable in varying conditions and relies super heavily on the wibeband to correct for changes which is much slower than the temperature correction table.

 

Speedy, I don’t know what size cold side piping you’re going to run, but I ordered this weld on MAF piece so I don’t have to deal with the size difference with the factory MAF tube. I ordered straight from CX. I don’t know if this helps, just thought I would throw it out there.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164458738448

sorry, I missed that you were adding temp IAT sensor.

 

Don't forget you changed the entire engine at one point haha I wouldn't run a K&N for anything I actually cared about if it was doing anything but weekend driving on road. That said the damage potential to sensors is nil with the Haltech since the main thing K&N filters ruin quickly are MAFs, they ruin the engine much slower.

 

That's an interesting piece, I won't have a MAF anymore. but that part raises all sorts of questions. MAFs work by metering flow through a known diameter, if you change the piping diameter you change the reading...

 

No but it does reset the wear on the engine to zero, you swapped the entire engine, that engine doesn't have 700k. The truck does, engine doesn't