2007 Acting Up, Can't seem to Fix the Issue

I have a 2007 with roughly 223,000 miles on it. I have a reoccurring issue with it shaking while idle and if I don't accelerate in time, most cases it just stalls out and shuts off. Within the last year or so I've changed the following:

Spark Plugs
O2 Sensor
Fuel Filter & something else dealing with the fuel, I cannot remember at the moment
Battery
Alternator.

I changed the battery and alternator roughly 3 months ago and I though my issue was resolved. I was wrong. I feel as though the more things I fix on it, the more issues I have with it.

I do drive long distances for work 4 out of the 5 days. Roughly 2 hours and about 50 miles. I've been driving these for the past 2ish years. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it or not.

Hoping someone can help me with this issue, or is it time to just give up and trade it in? :/

 

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor and put a new air cleaner in?

 

I have not tried that yet.
I've brought it to the mechanics multiple times. I just feel they would catch these things, but I will try that and see if it works/ helps. Thanks

Edit: I have changed the MAF sensor about a year ago. i have not put air cleaner in.

 

Sounds like it could be a dirty throttle body, if you haven't cleaned it that would be a good first step to try.
Make sure you disconnect the battery when cleaning it and when your done reconnect it and allow the truck to idle up to operating temp to relearn the idle.

 

Naw best to do it yourself, go through the truck make sure things are tight, make sure that on the back of the airbox the small vacuum tube that runs to the fuel pressure regulator is connected and not cracked.

+1 Do that and clean the MAF.

 

Thank you guys so much! I'm pretty vehicle illiterate when it comes to things being broken or messed up so I appreciate the help! I'm definitely going to try doing whatever it is I can. I would hate to get rid of my Tacoma. I love it!

 

Could also be a vacuum hose leak

 

@batt700 I also thought this is what it could be because I haven't explored that option yet and on another thread with similar issues someone mentioned that as well. I know that it could be a number of things. My biggest issue isn't the problem its self. The problem keeps coming back after I fix things and I can't seem to pin point what it may be.

 

Yeah really weird. Rough idle means it has be an air/fuel ratio or related problem. No codes or anything?

 

@batt700 which is typically what fixes it for the time being. I've changed the sensors, fuel pump & I believe the line itself and the problem hasn't went away. I am not getting any codes. Usually when this starts to happen I don't get any lights. After a few days it will come on, or in most cases it won't come on at all.

 

Bad fuel injectors also won't throw a code and could cause the issue as well. I would recommend testing for vacuum leak as a vacuum leak will throw off air/fuel ratio and cause the mentioned symptoms. Second would then be to check the injectors. As well as all the already mentioned stuff such as MAF sensor cleaning and Throttle body cleaning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAFOm8b3x80&t=204s

Far stretch but if the car lurches forward and stalls only when put into drive but it is fine while in neutral/park that would be a sign of a failing torque convertor

 

I have that stutter after I disconnect the battery. Usually corrects itself after a few hundred miles

 

@batt700 it will stall in park if I do not accelerate in time. Meaning, if it's idle or for instance if I am stopped in traffic and it starts to shake and I do not give it some gas within a few seconds, it will stall out on me and shut off.

@JPT4x4ac It's been acting normal for about 4ish months since I've changed the alternator, but now the problem has surfaced again. I'm not sure if me driving such a ways for work everyday is what causes it to do that or not.

 

A few things to inquire about.

• Where did you get your plugs? Counterfeit have been a problem on Amazon, Ebay, etc.
• Did you change plug type (copper vs. iridium)? I don’t recall seeing your motor type but the V6 uses copper and the 4-cyl iridium. Have seen mixed reports regarding the V6 and iridium plugs.
• Do you have a OBD2 scan gauge? Might be useful to see idle fuel trims when it’s happening.
• When you replaced the alt/battery, the removal of power cleared the ECU and it had to re-learn its idle. You can try doing that again and see whether that cures it for a time. Don’t do this until you grab those fuel trims, tho.

Even if the re-learn “solves” the issue, it’s not something that should keep occurring as you describe. Check carefully for a vacuum leak, verify the PCV valve is working properly, and clean the throttle body. Try not to actuate the flap in the TB by hand when cleaning, there are reports of damage being caused by doing so. And use the proper TB cleaner, not plain ol’ carb cleaner.