ECU reprograming problem after CA sensor replacement

I posted this elsewhere but I don't think it was the right place and didn't get any responses. So, here's my issue. I replaced my crank angle sensor and remembered that, after doing that, it was supposedly necessary to reset the ECU by going through a series of steps while driving my truck. I remember it going something like this:
1. Accelerate to 45 mph and hold at that speed for ten minutes.
2. Allow the truck to slow to 35 without breaking.
3. return to 45 and then drop back down to 25. 4. Repeat step three four times.

Well, it read something like this. Does anyone know the actual steps? I'd sure appreciate it if you could list them. Thanks in advance, everyone!

 

It sounds like you are describing steps to get the system to go through emission readiness tests. You should not need to reset anything for crank sensor.

 

Steps like that are not necessary to reset (not re-program) the ECU. Simply either disconnect the negative battery terminal, or pull the EFI fuse (if you don't want to loose your radio presets), and wait a few minutes before reconnecting.

There are "monitors" in the ECU which do take time/miles to run/resolve, but those are primarily for emissions purposes. But the process you describe is not inline with those monitors, nor should you need to perform them for the crank (cam position?) sensor.

 

Really you don`t need to do anything If you fixed the problem the code will clear if it does not the truck does not start.

Back to the hunt for the problem.

 

I'm trying to find the page I downloaded out of the FSM for when I needed to get my catalytic monitors to reset for smog testing, but it was this -

The FSM procedure calls for a cold start, fuel tank between 1/4 - 3/4 full, open/close the gas cap then start the engine and let it warm up to operating temp. Then hold the RPMs at 3k for 10 seconds. That is supposed to set the monitors

though I'm not sure why it would be necessary after replacing the sensor, eventually the monitors will reset themselves after so many miles of driving conditions. Unless you're trying to get them to set faster to pass a smog test.

 

Thanks so much guys! I have to say, I thought it was odd that I should have to "reset" the ECU for the new sensor when it required the truck to run in order to do it. Seemed like a bit of a catch twenty two. I'm going to take it for a ride after I bolt the front skid plate back on and see if that fixed the problem or if it's still hitting a wall every time it hits 3000 RPM due to something else, like the dreaded Crank Angle cog and a bunged up woodruff key. Having to buy that 300Lb torque wrench would torque my wallet as much as that nut. Thanks again!