Norcal Spotted and BS Thread

Lmao... the first time I had to winch my truck I was 2wd. That was, literally, the driving force behind my 4wd swap.

 

I keep forgetting you're on 33's. You def don't look it! Do you have a body lift? Maybe since the 1st gen body is slim the 33s look larger than they are.

 

I don't have a body lift... yet...

Well, I actually have a 1 inch body lift sitting in the garage, that I have been going back and forth on for about 6 months.

The body lift is going to depend on how the tubbing goes. I don't want to lose my factory fender flares. I'll cut the firewalls how ever much I need to cut, but if I have to cut the fenders, I'm going to do the body lift (hopefully instead of cutting the fenders)... if that makes sense.

 

I'm always wary of BLs whenever we are super top heavy. It looks awesome though. What are your wheel specs? Are they for sure going to make contact with your firewalls? Mine rubs like crazy but thats due to my spacers (either I rub on firewall or I rub on UCA).

 

I have 4.75 back space on the wheels. I run 1.25 Spidertrax to bring me to 3.5. I have to run the spacers, with these wheels because of my spindle gussets.

 

I'd be warry of the BL if it was more that 1 inch. I don't think 1 inch BL would really make that much of a difference with the top heaviness.

Most of the weight of my truck is still, really, between the frame rails. The RTT is up at cab height, but it only weighs 115 pounds.

 

If you're not limiting your uptravel, I don't think you're gonna be able to get away with not cutting your fenders in some fashion. I haven't seen a build on 35's that hasn't cut their fenders. It is possible to keep the flares though like @jubei, but you'll still have to cut them a bit.
I'm with ya though. I don't wanna loose my flares either when going up in tire size.

 

Did @jubei slice the back of the fender near the front of the slider? I'm absolutely not opposed to stuff like that. I just want to try not to lose them all together... like top of tire rubbing the fender type of stuff.

I'll cut what has to be cut. But if I can avoid losing the flares, it's my first choice.

 

It's definitely do-able keeping the flares. Check out his build thread. How he did it is in there. Basically just using the top clips to hold the flare, but the whole bottom side of it is cut out and the fenders themselves cut up a bit closer to the clip holes

 

I'll check it out. You remember off the top of your head if he's running a body lift?

 

Hmm not 100% sure, but I think he might be iirc.

 

Been reading through his thread. Looks like he WAS running them, but took them off before he tubbed.

 

If you want to keep the flares it can be done by drilling new holes and cutting them up a bit. Why though? If you want to wheel harder, which is most peoples reason for 35's, body damage becomes the norm. The flares will end up getting ripped off eventually.

 

Lol... First of all, I just don't want to deal with CHP if I don't have to. A couple inches of tire poke is one thing, 6 inches... my luck, I get pulled over first day.

Plus, it just looks better with the flares. I'm going to pretty much copy exactly what @jubei did. His turned out really clean.

BTW...

Shit bout to go down.




Thank you @foxrcing07, for helpin me out this evening

 

Lol. 35s and poke. Is that a thing ?

 

I absolutely did NOT want to limit my uptravel, so I ended up cutting the outer fenders quite a bit. In the end, I cut out quite a bit more than some of the other guys did, but I also had basically a stock alignment at the time, so my tire was quite a bit further back than most, probably. I also used a factory bump for tubbing that was cut to half its height, which pushed the tire up further as well and increased the amount of metal I removed for some added margin. When it was all done, I was into the door hinge and the body mount, and there was maybe a 1” wide strip of fender left at the very bottom near where the front of the slider would be.

When I did my tubbing, I wasn’t running the 1” BL that I’m running currently. You’ll encounter some knee-jerk hate for them on TW, but IMO that’s warranted for 3” BL and all of the headaches that come with it, not to mention the added shear/moment between the body and the frame with one that tall. But most of the sane and non-dogmatic folks on TW will agree that a 1” is no big deal. For me, it bought me a bit more total lift, but more importantly, it created some space to work with for eventually running triple shifters and possibly a clocked rear case. I’ll still have to hack the cab floor a bunch with the BL, but it shouldn’t be nearly as bad as without it. I may not even go clocked since I’m not looking to beat the ever living fuck outta my truck. I just want the better gearing and control.

 

Right on man. Thank you for all the info.

I think my plan is to basically do exactly what you did. Cut without the BL and then... go against the purists... and put on the 1 inch BL.

The BL will offer a bit more clear for the top of my 2nd battery, make working on the top of my coilovers easier, possibly lead to bigger rear shocks, as well as make a crawlbox/double case (what ever I decide) easier. I just don't buy the whole "center of gravity" arguement on a 1 inch body lift. I'm sure it makes a difference, technically... I'm also sure that difference is absolutely not a noticable, or tangible, difference.

 

No problem

I had totally forgotten about the extra inch you get with the BL for your upper shock mounts in the rear. That translates to extra height for the lower mounts and more clearance below them.

As for the COM argument, moving the body up 1” has to be pretty negligible when the vast majority of the total mass is between the frame rails like you said. My RTT isn’t on my truck permanently anymore, but it’s a big bastard and you can definitely feel it on off camber stuff, but not much more than without it on there. I know a few dudes locally that run RTTs on 4Runners that have it way higher than mine and they have no problem getting after it.

If you have any questions once you start tubbing, feel free to tag me. It’s a shit job, but it’s so nice when it’s done. And honestly, cutting some extra isn’t horrible once you’re already in it. Once you see that fresh 35 spinning freely at full stuff and lock, you’ll be smiling like an idiot and it’ll all be worth it

 

FTFY

 

Rear is done. Cycles all al way with no rub. I also think I may have fixed my e-brake while I was in there (bonus).

The rear was really easy, seeing as I had already cut 8 inches off the fender behind the wheel lol.