New Tacoma - Suspension advice!

Hey all! I’m brand new to the Taco community. I traded my 2011 Ram for a new Tacoma SR5 a few weeks ago, and so far, loving it. (I didn’t realize how much easier a Tacoma would be to park, lol.)

I’m in need of some suspension advice.

My plan is to add Bilstein 5100s to level the front and likely a tapered block at the back, to keep some rake. Nothing to extreme, just enough to accommodate 275/70r/17 tire.

What are the pros / cons of replacing the front two shocks, as opposed to replacing all four (front/back)? I’ve seen people do both in the forums, but haven’t been able to understand the rational for spending the addition $$.

Thanks!

 

Highly recommend doing all around, especially going economical with Bilsteins. And 275s will require a CMC, plastic, fender cutting. GL

 

If your only goal is to raise your ride height, I think you should consider some small spacers up front. I see little reason to upgrade your shock absorbers if you see no benefit.

 

Solid, thanks for the tips. The rational behind the 5100’s is future adjustability / keeping travel. I had spacers in my last truck, they worked fine, but obviously they were static. As far as the tires, yeah I’m reading mixed things about their fit. Some say they fit fine, other say they will rub. I’m fine with trimming the fender but would like to avoid anything UCA or CMC related if I can help it

 

Maybe find a local shop that sells tires and wheel, tell them what you want and they can figure out what size will fit without spacers.
Some wheels have different offsets and changing the offset can get the tire away from the UCA, so yes it may take more than just tires.
Do you know your wheels offset? 2wd or 4wd?

Professional "free" advice is always good, if what they say will work and you like it, you're done.
If the advice they give does not fit or you don't like it,... you can always say, thanks for your time. While paying nothing.

 

275’s don’t require any cutting or trimming if you set the truck up right. 3 degrees of caster and 0 offset wheels will fit them just fine. This will, however, require the purchase of UCAs.

 

so the plan is to spend $4-5k on suspension, wheels, tires but skimp on a $140 cab mount chop? Not sure I agree with this, as a CMC adds piece of mind, is a minor 1 hour job, and opens yourself up to going bigger or more aggressive offset down the road.

 

OP has a 22. Why void warranty if it isn’t needed? You claimed it was “required” but it isn’t. It will definitely make things easier but not required. And if suggesting a chop, why not go all the way and relocate so you can eventually get 37’s under it?

 

because a relocation kit is exponentially more expensive and more intrusive. CMC will not void your warranty. Ymmv

why not go solid axles and run 40s

 

Toyota will not replace body mount bushings under warranty if you have cut and welded a cab mount. Ask me how I know. Relocation kit is $400 installed. No point in suggesting something be cut that isn’t required.

 

I live in an area where there aren’t specialized car shops. From what I’ve read, a CMC shouldn’t be too complex, should it? Just wondering if a ‘normal’ local shop would be able to do the job well.

The wheels I’m looking at have 0 offset (once they’re back in stock) but this is the first time I’ve heard of caster adjustments. What’s that about?

 

Also, thanks for the replies everyone. Love this forum

 

The lift has no bearing on fitting those tires, they'd fit just fine on stock height suspension. If you want a lift then go for it but you don't need to spend the money if you just want to have some larger tires.

 

just do what he says, go 0 offset, buy some good quality UCAs, push caster all the way forward, don’t worry about a CMC and hope for the best running 275s.

 

im with you on this. Unnecessary.
I run my truck pretty hard and fast on the trails and have never needed this. Why go a wider tire, especially a 275 with very few options because it’s an oddball size? Might as well go 285’s and eat the weight and performance loss…doesn’t mean better…also doesn’t necessarily look better when the tires stick out past the fenders. Function over form

 

oh, so you did a CMC, but don’t recommend it to someone else trying to fit bigger tires. Got it..,

 

I would probably check out this page as you weigh your options and what you want to do.
I found it very helpful as I was trying to build out something on paper.

YouTube Page >> https://www.youtube.com/c/TinkerersAdventure

For me and for now, I'm going to be running the below and should be in the clear as far as not having to do any trimming.
(Hopefully I don't have to put my foot in my mouth)

Accutune A-Arm
Tire> (33.5" x 10.6)
Wheel>Method 701 Bead Grip Matte Black

It's cheap, but it should get me started in the right direction.

Hopefully that's helpful!

 

Nope. I didn’t do it. Didn’t need to. Nothing is cut at all on my truck and my tires are an inch taller and just as wide as the OP wants. No rubbing what so ever.

 

congratulations

 

A good alignment shop can get about 1 degree of caster from the cam bolts with stock upper control arms. This might be enough to clear the 32” tires you are looking at. If not, aftermarket upper control arms will push the top of the spindle forward a little more, thus giving you another degree or two of caster and pulling the tire forward a little more to keep it off the cab mount.