What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

They are flexible rubber. Not unforgiving solid molded like oem. They will not snap off under stress like the oem style. The oem molded are generally fine behind the rear tires but the fronts are more prone to damage in a bind. The flexible types will simply twist or fold out of the way when in a bind and then return to their flat shape. Same concept at RokBlokz but at 1/3 of the price. Used mine over 3 years with no problems.

 

All this talk reminded me on our trip I got a "Pending Trouble Code" on my Ultragauge. It is P0022. Has anyone had this come up before? Alarm went off when it came up. O cleared it. When I started to drive again it came back up. Didn't clear it and it didn't chime at me again. There was no noticeable issue with the truck and we continued to drive over 1000 miles after it came on. Anyone got an idea? I looked up a thread on here that talks about it but there didn't seem to be a resolution other then cleaning the oil control valve.

 

Picked up a new to me bed mat.



My knees already feel better.

 

That seems to be a very rare problem. If it was my truck I would pull and test that one control valve. If it is out of spec then would be worth replacing since it is already removed. Just my 2 cents.

 

That is what I am leaning towards. It hasn't thrown a light either just the "pending" code.

Thats $250 I didn't want to spend on maintenance.

 

VVT is a great thing for both performance and fuel management. It is however a system that can cause havoc especially when there is an oil deficiency. Look at how many Ford trucks, with 4.6 and 5.4 engines, have had major failures due to poor oil flow in the VVT system. Even my daughters low mileage Buick V6 has warnings concerning oil flow to that system requiring full synthetic oil changes between 3k and 3.5k miles. That one is due to pin sized oil ports feeding the valve timing system that gum up with thickening oil. I suspect, after reading the 5 pages in the TW thread "oil control valve location", that your problem is related to gumming of oil in that valve. You could probably buy some time by cleaning it with the right cleaner but I say replace it and forget about it. You would most likely never see that code again. Well not at least until the one on the other side pops a code P0012. I am in my 60's and started tearing into engines when I was 13-14 years old and I am constantly amazed at how much there is still to learn about cars and trucks. These forums, along with the relative youtube videos, are a constant never ending wealth of information and education.

 

Yeah I read over that twice now and sounds like what is going on. If I'm going to take the intake off to check them they are going to get replaced. I'm almost at 180k so for piece of mind I think I will be changing them when I get time to. I'll try cleaning the filters first to see if they are dirty.

 

Installed the McNeil +2 fenders up front. Took about 6 hours in this heat.





Painted the inner fenders black.



Finally done at 11 pm

 

Removed TRD bedside decals.

 

Time for another oil change

 

Received my new inner tie rod and jam nut.
I was able to replace the drivers lower control arm over the weekend and I checked on Monday to see if I can loosen the tie rods so I can align the thing. The passenger came loose but not the drivers side.

Now to find time to replace the tie rod and do an alignment.

 

Finally installed the @CaliRaisedLed push button for the ditch lights

 

I have done about 4k miles on my tacoma and so far so good!

 

Another 44,444 and she'll be broken in.

I'm closer to 255555 miles.

Actually... I'm over that...

 

I've done so much for the truck this summer and my last project was going to be taking care of the rear drums...



Then, I found out why my exhaust sounds so "throaty"!



Sigh...

 

BRRRRRPPPPPP....sounds like a Subaru! and I promise not to tell the wife you used one of the good towels...

 

I put some 4” auxbeam lights in the fog light spot, needa do the anytime fog mod.

and now I needa find some new ditch lights, got brackets otw and a 8 button switch panel


and get new head lights cause I don’t like these

 

Started my suspension and drivetrain upgrade

Jd 2.25 LT with Fox RR coilovers
Lc200 steering rack
Rc Fab clevis and kel-tek made rod arms (dual shear at both ends)
Front diff is getting 4.88s and Air locker
Bigger brakes (gx470)
Rear is going land cruiser 9.5 with 4.88 and Air locker..

Currently have 37s on method beadlocks but debating 40s (I'll probably just run the 37s and decide later)

Upgrading from single arb to a dual arb with a tank and hardlines/regulator ran.

Cleaning up and painting a bunch of stuff, also looking for places to gusset and or strengthen as im going.


Just wish the heat would calm down

 

My rear drums are on the short list. What brand did you go with?

 

RIP oncoming drivers eyes