Drain, refill or flush

I’ve been digging through the transmission threads and really haven’t found a solid answer. Tons of great information though.

2013 4.0 automatic w 188k with unknown transmission maintenance history. I’m assuming it’s either never been done or it’s been awhile. I want to service the transmission, but I’m not sure if I should just perform the multiple drain and refills or do the full DIY flush, filter, refill.

The transmission shifts fine with no shudders or slipping. I’m just paranoid seeing as our used 2012 Avalon just shit the transmission to the tune of $4,500...

Should I just perform the check procedure and see the condition of the fluid first?

 

Don't flush, just do a series of several drain and fills like every other week until the fluid starts coming out red again.

Don't know if there is one but I might look into wether or not there's a filter than can be replaced by dropping the trans pan, if not I wouldn't worry about it and just do the drain and fill series.

 

There is a filter and magnets in the pan.

Pan drop, clean magnets, and replace filter.
Refill and Drive it.

I seriously doubt you’ll have any issues if a flush is done CORRECTLY.
If you have problems after a flush, there was a problem before the flush. (Unless you messed up doing the flush)

 

if you have no idea as to when it was done but its shifting well. Do it right, Drain pan, drop pan, clean magnets, replace filter and put pan back on. Fill up trans pan with 4 quarts then push another 8 through the system in 2 quart intervals. Do check procedure and call it good.

 

Drain and fill. I’m ok with pulling the pan - but I had a flush kill a tranny once so
I’m done with those. My experience

 

Drain and fill. Clean everything in the process.

 

I’m on team drain, drop the pan , replace the filter , however if you are in a rust belt area be super careful with the drain pain bolts they love to snap off in the transmission housing ......

 

That was probably due to a forced flush machine and likely the pan wasnt dropped to be cleaned and filter wasnt replace... thats what killed your trans

The proper way to "flush" is to use the internal pump to push old fluid out like stated AFTER one drops the pan cleans it and replaces the filter.

 

Drive.

It's going to die when it's going to die. Changing the fluid won't change that, in fact it may speed up when it dies. For all the internet chatter about changing AT fluid I've never seen any documentation that supported the idea that changing the fluid prolonged transmission life. The guys who run the local transmission shop tell me the same. They have guys who insist on changing the fluid religiously, and other guys who drive the factory transmission fluid until the transmission dies then have it rebuilt. They don't see any difference in when that rebuild happens. But the guys who drive them till it dies save a lot of money long term.

My dad started driving in 1936, I started in 1974. Neither of us has ever changed the AT fluid in any vehicle we've ever owned. Dad worked in sales and averaged about 40,000 miles/year and kept his cars to 250,000 miles. I've put 200,000 on several, currently at 226,000 on my Tacoma. There are nearly 1/2 million combined miles on the vehicles sitting on my driveway as I type and there have never been any transmission issues.

If I have to put in a new transmission next week I'm way ahead financially.

 

On the Team Drain train too. At 82,000 miles, I drained, filled, then drove 500 miles. Then drained and filled again, drove another 500 miles before draining, dropping the pan, cleaning the pan and magnets and replaced the screen (filter) before buttoning it all up. While doing the two drain and fills I sprayed PB Blaster on the pan bolts prepping for the pan drop. Also make sure the fill plug can be removed before you drain. 'Cause it would suck if it didn't and you already drained out a couple of quarts.

 

This process below is what I do but this is assuming you have the factory trans cooler. This works best with a helper.
1. Disconnect the hose from the cooler that comes from the trans.
2. Grab an empty 1 gallon jug.
3. Insert the hose into the jug.
4. Have your helper start the truck. This will push the fluid from the trans into the jug. Once full, turn the truck off.
5. Replace the same amount of new fluid back into the pan.
6. Repeat until the fluid comes out clean.
7. Get the trans up to temp per Toyota's specification. Leave the truck running, remove the check bolt and let the fluid run out until it stops.
8. Reinstall the check bolt and your done.

Hop this helps.

 

thank you everyone for your input. It's been an Arizona truck from new- late 2021 so hopefully, the bolts won't shear off. I plan to drop the pan, clean it, and change the filter & fluid. The last service I did was on a GM TH400, which was a while ago.

 

That's pretty much how I did mine. Except I used my remote start fob instead of an assistant. Worked great.

 

Thanks for that heads up! I got a filter and was headed this way but the heads on some of my pan bolts were too bad to try and would likely round off which would require damaged bolt removal techniques at a minimum. But I did not expect that some could also break off. Wouldn't that just be special. So, I did the flush and refill and ordered a set of bolts. I'll get to that filter when I have the time to tackle what these bolts throw at me. That isn't now... but the trans is shifting smoothly and perfectly.

And to provide the OP with data I did that at 99,000 miles, now at 127,000 miles.

 

bought my '13 with 35K miles on it in 2017, did a complete flush at 40K when I installed a

$58 Hayden 679 Universal 11” Rapid-Cool Add-On Transmission Cooler to Enhance Cooling (not for direct replacement of the factory unit)

Hayden 679 trans cooler & switched to Valvoline Maxlife. I do a drain & refill ~3qts every oil change, currently creeping up on 120K with zero issues. I drove it across the states (central PA- western ID) and back last year. In the spring/summer I pull a trailer every week, either with mowers/small tractors, my small skidloader (~2400lbs), or loaded with firewood.

 

While you are not hurting anything. I think you are likely spending unnecessary money if you are draining and filling every oil change. What OCI are you running?

I do every 5K.

 

well, I am a bit of a maintenance whore lol, 5K oil change, grease u-joints & tire rotation. spark plugs, diff & t-case oil every 30K. for me its peace of mind knowing its maintained. I also keep a maint. log of everything I do to the truck. But I also do that with all my equipment (mowers, tractors, generator etc.)

 

I plan on bringing it to my buddy's shop today and using his lift. Any ballpark idea on how much fluid to expect to come out when I drain and then drop the pan? I want to make sure I have enough fluid on hand. I bought a sixer of WS, I've read on here that ranges from 2.5-5 quarts...that's a pretty big swing. Should note, I do have the factory tranny cooler on my truck too.