Mobil 1 Synthetic 15k Miles

Im writing about this liquid gold in a bottle because I see a lot of pictures of people doing their oil changes and draining incredibly dark (used) oil.

This is my experience:

I work out of my Tacoma. I put a good 500 to 1000 miles weekly on it. I live in Puerto Rico so the climate is always hot as hell. I carry at least 500 to 600 lb. of weight in my bed all the time, apart from weekends. Thats 5 days of pure weight in the truck, and thats not counting the people getting in.

Each time I do my Oil Change, my used oil does not come out super black. It usually comes out Dark Yellow, turning to brown. There is also no particles in my drain cap. What have I been using? I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic 15,000 Miles. Its supposed to last for 15,000 miles or 1 year, however since I drive the truck a lot, I change it every 10,000 miles. The oil is the same price as almost any other synthetic oil.

So, if any of you are using synthetic blends and changing it every 5,000 miles or less. Try this 15,000 synthetic and see how much money you can be saving and how much time you can save as well, since you'll be able to do it less frequently.

Also, 2 side notes:

I use the D3 Toyota Filter, which is the larger version of the one that comes factory.

This oil is usually included in the specials they throw in Advance Auto Parts, Pepboys, etc when they do their DIY oil specials.

 

Well. Im not going to argue about that since im sure you know a heck of a lot more than me in those fields. Im also not likely to go and do an oil sample test.

However, in the 2 years that I have been using this truck and this oil, ive seen no particles in my drain plug and the color of the oil coming out looks like what I think is healthy. Not too dark, and also not too new (yellow). I agree it would be bad if the oil came out like it did when I put it in.

I have opened that Engine two times to do some cosmetic things to it and have checked it inside and it looks brand new, and my truck has almost 80k miles. I think thats pretty good protection. In a couple months when I hit 100k miles, ill write all about it again most likely.

 

Hmm. Yeah I don't think I would leave it for the 15k miles it says either. But I only say that because of the harsh way I use my vehicle and the harsh environment I use it in. 10k miles has been great up to now though.

 

I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 since first oil change at 3300K works well, I might try this one out on the next change.

- Rich

 

If that were me......I'd contact Mobile 1 and ask them :

"What's the difference between THIS oil and the other Mobile 1 oils??"

What do they put in this oil that makes it 'special' from all the rest??

I'm almost willing to BET, this is the exact same oil as the standard Mobile 1 oils. It's all marketing and they label their products differently just to see how consumers react to it. I've seen this countless times on other products. Same exact products with different labels.

Notice in the picture.... there's an * after the word 'protection'
Scroll down to the bottom of the bottle. There will be some fine print to read.

 

i run amsoil one year solid.......

 

Like Chris4x4 said: they add a shitload of additives, but I can't see it as a bad thing. Mobil1 won't tell you much about what's in their oils as they (and all the others) consider that proprietary information; people have asked and gotten pissed by the runaround they get. Doesn't mean they make bad product, it just means they are (justifiably) protective of proprietary information in a very competitive industry.

But people have gotten oil analysis that tells a huge story: both virgin oil and used oil analysis.

Synthetic oil base stocks are all good enough to last 15K miles (pushing to 25k is a lot more iffy, even Amsoil's) because they hold viscosity grade really well. This is not my opinion, it's well documented independently and you can see proof if you check out UOA's at BITOG. They reason is because they don't have to use VII's (Viscosity Index Improvers) like petroleum oils do to provide low-temp flowability.

The things that deplete over time and miles are 1) anti-wear properties 2) the ability to hold contaminants in suspension, e.g., detergents and 3) the ability to neutralize corrosive combustion by-products. Those properties are provided by additives, a shitload of the right kind means the oil system (it's better to think of it as a system) lasts longer in service.

Mobil1 EP (AND Pennzoil Ultra, certain Amsoil and other brands) adds shitloads of additives to really good fully synthetic base stocks that make little or no use of VII's. Again, not opinion: verifiable by checking out the VOA's at BITOG.

By the way....you can buy oils with NO additives if you want, just look for SAE grade 'SA' oils. That's pure base oil stock, no additives. Useful for older vintage motors that can't handle HD oils.

Wow...be careful...the proof is well documented on BITOG to any who want to go check it out...you'd loose big time!


Still...all in all...I agree with Chriss4x4 that without UOA's running to 15k would be scary. I'm comfy with 10k/1 year, but that's what I do now with M1'sr 'regular' synthetics; for several reasons it works perfect for me!

 

I use Mobile 1 so I don't doubt its abilities.

I doubt the labeling on their 'extended performance' as being anything different (or better) than what the standard mobile 1 already is. Besides...What additives can they possibly put in it that gives it extended wear protection?
Wouldn't that now make the regular Mobile 1 a non-extended performance?
Oh wait....the EP has 50% more supersyn than the standard oil. The proprietary information that they'll probably never tell you.....that it could be the exact same oil.

I change mine at regular intervals (5K miles) which is about twice a year.

 

Based on the VOA's I read...they added a lot to the TBN, bringing it right into the same class as Amsoil's 25k oil. That's a marked improvement on their 'old' oil. I THINK the SuperSyn is their trade-name for PAO base stock...what people think of as 'true' synthetic. Using more of it helps the oil stay in grade even better over the miles, but M1 was still very good anyway (see study linked below, M1 held grade much better than Amsoil).

Can see your point about their standard oil: the way to get extended drain performance from that was to add make-up oil and do filter changes. Those top-ups added critical kicks to TBN in particular. I've read a couple real-world tests that got to almost 20K with regular M1, but they followed the regimen above: makeup and filter changes. IIRC, the reason for draining was because TBN finally depleted to much.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

SOoooo...to respond to that then...my opinion is that Mobil1 labels only this as EP because they are more comfortable with such a guarantee considering people DON'T follow such a regimen!

But hell...those people probably don't even check oil level, the main reason auto makers in the US won't go to extended drain interval recommendations in warranty coverage as has European auto makers. Check drain recommendations and oil requirements for VW, BMW, Audi and Mercedes Benz. Read the backs of oil containers looking for compliance with VW502, BMW 'LL' specs (Long Life) and I can't remember the MB specs, required by them for those drain intervals, and you know your getting the best oils possible for extended drain intervals!

 

Yes, that's a good article, among many others I have read, including the Blackstone site. I enjoy these bits particularly, for all you 3,000-mile synthetic-changers out there:

Engine wear actually decreases as oil ages. This has also been substantiated in testing conducted by Ford Motor Co. and ConocoPhillips, and reported in SAE Technical Paper 2003-01-3119. What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it.

...and...

Based on the results we've got here, we'd recommend 8,000 miles between oil changes on an engine that uses no oil at all, perhaps 10,000 miles on an engine that uses some oil, and 15,000 miles or beyond with a filter change every 5,000 miles. This, of course, isn't any kind of guarantee, and you must evaluate for yourself what your engine requires. One thing we're pretty sure about though: 3,000-mile intervals is a huge waste of resources.

(http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html)

In fact, I need to order my Blackstone kit now. I bought my truck used (about 100k miles) and had no idea what oil was in it, and changed it with Mobile 1. I am going to change it at 5k now and send in a sample to see what I can learn. It is possible the synth may have knocked some crap loose, but the oil level has not budged yet and it is not unusually dark (no visual indication of lots of crap in suspension).

My goal is 10k between changes, with filter changes at every 5k to get the particulates and byproducts out. I'll see if the test results support that goal. No point in throwing away a valuable resource that is not expired, especially if it is still doing its job protecting your valuable engine!

 

Spoke to the service manager at my dealership about oil. Toyota recommends changing the oil evey 5,000 regardless of what type of oil you use, be it syntheic or blend.

I've been driving for 45 yrs & firly believe that by changing the oil per owners manual, you engine will last. I don't understand paying for the higher price synthetic oil when blend is recommanded & works just as well.

My .02 cents

 

Yes, that is very common sense, and legally (warranty-wise) sound, too. And it is important to not be suckered by oil-industry hype and marketing about excessively frequent oil change intervals (which empties our pockets and buys them yachts).

My 2001 manual differentiates service intervals for normal (7,500 miles) and severe service (5,000).

I am curious, do the 2nd gen manuals do this too?

 

I don't believe the 2nd gen manuals suggest 7,500 miles, although 7,500 would be the the longest to go before changing oil.

If you wait for 15,000+ miles, your risking engine wear/failure.

 

I am not suggesting anyone go 15k.

You just referred to following the owner's manual, and I was curious if the 2nd gen manual differs from the 1st gen manual with regard to recommending 2 possible service intervals based on vehicle use, "regular" and "severe."

 

Anyone ever think about the oil filter aspect of oil changes? No matter how long synthetic oils can last, post 10k miles i.e. aren't you driving too long with a dirty filter?

 

I use that same Oil, for just some reason I still Change it at 3000-5000 miles. I don't feel comfortable going over 5k. Its Good Oil tho, Been running Mobil 1 Since I got the truck.

 

You know what you're talking about, but you forgot 2 important things about synthetic, the secret is the amount of zinc thats added to synthetic and the type and brand of oil filter you use is very important, (using the wrong oil filter defeats the advantage of using synthetic)
I got in trouble before by explaining oil filter design, but I think you know the 3 top brands of oil filters to use, just continue to use those brands.
I never trust the oil filter, I change the oil every 8000 miles, but I change just the oil filter only at 2000-3000 miles and just add enough of new oil to replace that was lost changing just the oil filter.
It is amazing how many oil experts tell me how stupid I am for doing that, even when I cut open the old oil filter and find it completly full of dirt.
I was doing that and using synthetic a long time ago, I was using synthetic when nobody was using synthetic, I used advice from an old school oil expert and still use that same advice today, I am told today that new technoligy in oil filter design that filters don't clog up with dirt,, really? but where does that dirt go?
I tell the simple people a synthetic is a super high detergent oil, it will do a 10 times better job of cleaning the inside of the engine, so when it cleans more, it also has to find a garbage can for the dirt and the garbage can is the oil filter,,, and that garbage can fills up more quickly and needs changed more.
The simple minded also ask me where the dirt comes from, unbrned hydrocarbon from cheap gasoline, metal filings from normal internal wear and tear, and outside air dirt particals that pass thru your air filter, most air filters are 25-30 micron, dirt can be as small as 2 micron.

 

Before I switched to full synthetic I did aloft of research & one study I read was about how the city of Cincinnati ( ) . They ran all of their city vehicles with full syn for 25 K between changes .After several years they started breaking down the motoers & found that there internal parts still mic-ed at factory numbers !

I run it in everything now . The first start after switching , I can tell the difference !

I do the at 8 k intervals , filter at 4 K s.

BigO