Sway bar removal or quick disconnect.

I'd just be worried about a quick swerve due to an obstruction in the road, pothole, or deer. Seems it could get a little western with those knee-jerk reactions.

edit: I also wonder about towing.

 

Honestly the quick reaction things are
My only concern(socal traffic) I don’t tow and the only thing I load in the back is light gear and a dirt bike a couple of times a year.

 

I had a few, serious emergency swerves. No issues. I've run canyon roads fast enough to make my own self car sick with no problems. Caught up to sports sedans and such. Either peeps don't know what they got or . . .


For towing is the only reason that I have not recycled the SB. If we ever get a travel trailer, I will likely put it on when towing and maybe even get quick disconnects for comfort when unhitched. The Sport springs / suspension is actually really great . . . without the SB. With it, it is harsh AF.

 

Yup, unfortunately no quick disco’s due to the suspension design. I’ll try it and I’ll get back with you guys

 

have had my sway bar off for 6 months now. no regrets and if anything rides nicer now on streets. zero feel of tipping

 

It is super easy to do. Wheels on the ground.


There is a QD design that used sliding hiem joints and pins. The person used to make them in small runs. Not sure if they still do. Probably the best way that I saw for modding the existing SB. There are other methods that are good for different configurations but nothing that I'd like to do with ours as a mod.

 

Found the thread.

Pics:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sway-bar-links.470412/page-2#post-14608189

Product Link:
https://overlandcustomdesign.com/collections/sway-bar-links/products/sliding-front-disconnect

 

I keep getting dyslexic on this one too.

From memory I think its the sport that has the 650 springs, but makes up for it by stiffening the shocks. I think the OR has the loosey-goosey shocks but compensates with a higher spring rate.


I dunno. Ive gotten that one backwards a few times now.

 

I thought Sport had stiff everything. My Toyota Owners access is still screwed up, so I can't get to the Parts page. I really need to call and get it sorted out.

I can say that the Sport without the SB rides and corners like a stock OR but with less brake dive. Sampled them both back to back.

 

I kept mine installed on the Sport shocks. I didn't like how it towed the camper without.

I just installed 6112s and am now revisiting the idea. The few posts that I can find on the subject, one person liked it, another said that "truck never felt settled" with that combo. I'm about to work on the truck this weekend anyway, I might just pull my bar and take it for a ride.

 

I tow our travel trailer without a front sway bar and have had no negatives to report. If your tow setup is doing what it should removing the front sway bar doesn't make a huge difference. If you were towing a trailer with no wdh then it may be a bigger issue as you are only loading weight on the back of the truck and making the front end even lighter.

 

I tow a pop-up. No WDH, for reasons that my campsites are often off-pavement, and I'm too lazy to get out and disconnect before going off camber.

 

That is my thinking. Just keeping everything tight. Not so much about swerve control and such, but keep the wagging down and no overcorrections.

The size that we would likely get would definitely need a WDH. Just for sway control and such on my side of things, I would run the SB until I was sure that things were GtG, esp as I have never towed anything in that weight range.

 

If you had to guess what is a realistic hitch weight? and how much do you load into the bed? Our old pop up was very light on the tongue and we barely felt it but some of these newer pop ups are really heavy.

I use an Andersen WDH, they are kinda quirky but it seems to work very well with varying loads. I've never experienced wag from our setup, the whole truck moves as a single unit. The tricky thing about pulling a "bigger" trailer with a tacoma is the venturi effect when you are getting passed by big rigs. When you pass or get passed by a big semi the truck and trailer are often sucked into and then pushed away from the draft they create. Once you get used to it it isn't as big of a deal but it's something that I do experience quite a bit. Driving down I5 in Oregon the trucks are constantly passing slow traffic and other trucks. It feels like a giant game of frogger and trucks continually pass and then get passed by other trucks. It can get annoying after a while as you get sucked into and pushed away from every truck as they pass.

 

Thanks! That's a great reccy.

Oh yeah. I feel that sitting at stoplights on faster roads, and might have felt that for the first time on my bike last night squeezing through danger close on I-5. I was in a mood.




My wife will not like that feeling, but as long as it doesn't upset the towing situation, life will be fine. Still a couple years down the road, but I'm looking forward to it.

 

I keep meaning to get an accurate tongue scale.

If I had to guess it's in the 400 pound range fully loaded. I converted the battery bank to lithium which helped immensely, but the winch, propane, and front trunk makes it a bit of a pig.

So I'm guessing 400 plus a solid 200 in the bed.

 

@tonered if you ever want to hook up to our trailer for a little test run sometime just lmk.

@Rock Lobster that's where i would still feel comfortable without a wdh.

 

Hmmm, I’m thinking about doing this. I know it will do so much better off-road.

I do have 2” OME lift, about 500 of added weight and 33x10 tires. I spend a lot of time driving through mountain passes at maxed out payload doing 70-85.

Wondering if it’s a good idea or not.



Pics for attention.

 

Ohhh! I would like that. Just need a brake controller. Been meaning to pick one up just in case.

Thanks!