Help: 3RZ not starting after head gasket repair

I don't know much about EFI, and I'm looking for thoughts on what to check first.

Tried starting it after replacing the blown head gasket. I think everything went back together correctly. The engine turns over but doesn't try to start. Cranked it several times to give time for fuel to get to the injectors. Not giving it any gas when cranking. Half a tank of fuel that's been setting for 6 months. I'm not getting a trouble code. It had an on-and-off IAC (idle air control) trouble code before the head gasket went, but there were no other signs that there was a problem.

I'm a shade tree mechanic just trying to get my 4Runner going again. I ~rebuilt a previous 3RZ and it ran for years.

I'm pretty sure that the timing chain is correct, but it's possible that it's not. The Haynes manual makes it seem like the 3RZ is an interference engine (someone confirm that it is?). The cam marks were aligned.

I want to start checking air, fuel, and spark. I'm guessing that it's not getting fuel. I'd like to do what doesn't require taking too much apart (and buying new gaskets), first.

I just pulled the #4 spark plug and it's dry of gas, where I'd think it would be wet with gas after cranking it four or more times, if the engine were getting gas. Does that seem like a correct thought?
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I looked over this webpage and maybe I left the fuel pump disabled way back when I checked compression.

https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-you-diagnose-an-engine-that-wont-start-1717491831

 

Are all the sensors hooked up? If I remember right the ecm won’t fire anything if it doesn’t have a signal from the cam position sensor.

 

I think so, but I'll double-check.

 

any luck?

 

No, I haven't got back to it yet. Thanks for asking.

Should I press the gas pedal down when trying to start it?

 

I wouldn't think that's necessary. Need more info on the vehicle though and whats been checked already and whether or not its throwing codes.

 

99 4Runner. The check engine light didn't come on (that's with cranking it over for about 30 seconds probably six times).

The clips broke for the connector that goes to the sensor between the #2 and 3 injectors. It looks like the Haynes manual is showing it as either the knock sensor or the crankshaft position sensor, but for some reason I'm thinking it's the camshaft position sensor. The connector seems to be going on all the way and staying on, but it's iffy. I was hoping that the engine would run and I could secure that connector with tape or something because I'm leery of changing it, if I can get another one. 3RZs rarely show up at the local junkyards, but there is one I know of, but I don't know if it has that connector and if a well used one is the way to go. I haven't looked on the internet to see if specific connectors are available. I imagine they're only available through Toyota dealers.

The two vacuum hoses that go to the power steering from the intake manifold were cracked at the ends and I tried salvaging them by cutting the ends off. They're barely long enough, so I'm going get new hose.

The exhaust manifold (a previous owner replaced it- it wasn't a Toyota part) was cracked and broken. I ordered a cheap one from RockAuto and only one bolt for EGR pipe lined up, so it's rigged with a small C-clamp. It might leak if it runs, but I don't think it's causing the problem. I'm hoping to find a later steel tube "mini header" before too long.

If by checking you mean breaking out a multimeter, no, I haven't done any of that. I probably need to buy a better meter than the cheapest Harbor Freight one that I have.

This feels like a confession about being cheap, dumb, and lazy.

 

Yeah that’s the camshaft position sensor I think. I have a steel header I took off my 3RZ if you need it, (removed for an upgrade)

 

PM sent.

 

Does anyone know of a forum that really gets into helping people with the 3RZ?

Can anyone confirm that the 3RZ is an interference engine? That is, if the timing isn't correct, then the valves and pistons can collide and be severely damaged.

I believe I got the timing/chain correct. General question: The engine's turning over but it's not even trying to start. It seems to me that if the timing were the problem that the engine would try to start. Does this sound correct?

I'm still thinking that it's not getting fuel. One way to check it is to listen for the fuel injectors working while it's running; I can't do that since the engine won't run. I'm starting to dig into the troubleshooting, especially the electrical. Is there a good way to check that it's getting fuel? How about taking the fuel line off at the fuel injector rail?

 

It is an interference engine.

Was it running before you took it apart? If so I’d go back and unplug and replug every connector just to be sure and look for anything that is unplugged.

 

Thanks for confirming.

Yes, it was running before I took it apart.

Good idea; I'll do that and make sure I know what sensors are where and such. The question that keeps coming back to me is: If there was a loose connection, a problem sensor, or a problem with one of the electrical circuits-- wouldn't it be getting an engine trouble code? I'm not getting any codes, at this point, cranking it for ~30 seconds at a time.

 

Think of the OBD codes as more of an emissions testing system, and less of an engine diagnostics. There's a lot if won't tell you.

 

I got it started! It seems to be running well.

A relay (in the interior fuse block) was removed, from when I was checking the compression, many months ago. I usually put things like that back in, or put it in an obvious place, but I must not have. I finally smartened up and tried one of the (not necessary to start) relays from the engine compartment fuse block.