Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

damn that was fast. Thank you sir!

 

As Chris said you don't need it. The brakes do the LSD on our 09's and up.

 

so my 08 prerunner sr5 will be good to go with just 3 quarts of synthetic and nothing else correct? or should i stick to dino oil?

 

Either way...It'll be due again in 30K...so it's your choice.
I use dino but I have an LSD...so I have to use additive and not many folks have had luck with synth and LSDs.

 

well no lsd for me just a one wheel wonder. truck doesnt get many miles put on it had it since it was brand new and just hit like 34k i think. so i was thinkin of trying RP or some other syn.

 

Im having a hard time telling if im lsd or not, I have no sticker on my diff? But while offroad and im throwing sand/dirt/mud, I sling on both rearview mirrors? Should I call yota with my vin and ask?

 

^^^ I appreciate it, ill post a pic tomorrow when its light out.

 

Ok so here's something strange. I have 8k miles on my truck but due to a recent offroading trip in which there was some deep water (and I haven't yet done the diff breather mod) I have decided to change the diff fluid. I bought 4 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic (owners manual say 3.16 I think). The diff took all four and it's still not running out the fill hole. Granted I may have spilled some and not gotten all the bottles completely empty. I can feel the fluid with my finger so it's almost all the way to the top but it's not running out. Anyone else experiencing this?????

 

*BEEP* Ok looks like I'm going back outside with my siphon to pull a quart out. And I just got out of the shower.

 

OHHHHHHHH crap ,i did the same thing because i was using a pump in a half gallon jug of oil,so now i need to drain it again and only put three quarts?? what about the front Diff and transfewr case,i did the fill to the top plug on these too.

 

Another great and easy to follow write up. Many thanks to the OPs for taking the effort and time to document this procedure. I only managed to change my rear differntial this past weekend, but plan on completing the front differential and transfer case as well in the next week or so. A few comments:

1. I agree with others that removing the spare tire makes it much easier to squeeze the oil from the bottles directly. I initially tried using an old suction gun I had around but it was messy to say the least. Although, you could get it done without dropping the spare tire with a pump, which I purchased after the fact for the front differential/transfer case.
2. I'm not sure why but others are right about the rear differential oil having a strong odor. My entire garage smelled like it for a few days and I cleaned up the surrounding floor and more following completion.
3. I also went with

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 lube (Coastal) and the 7 Oz GM/TransX Posi-Trac additive from my local Advanced Auto Parts. I saw where others pony up the $ for the pricery RP and others, but I elected to stay with the dino non-synthetic mix since I'll be dumping it every 30K. Besides, who can argue with $6.79/quart when they are all made to the same specs?
4. And the best part, it only cost $30 instead of the $100 I paid to have it done the first time by the dealership. However, my fill and drain plugs were already broken loosen from the dealership the first time so I had no issues with it this time around. I did need to use a hammer though to break the fill plug open.

Lastly, I filled my rear differential to exactly 3 quarts as shown in the specs by the manual and repeatedly stated in this post. However, no oil flowed out when completed but I could see the oil just below the fill plug and verified it with my pinky finger. I forgot to mention that neither of the two local dealerships had the differntial oil and both stated they only get it in barrels and not the individual quarts.

 

Yea, I gotta stop going by my old way of thinking. Thanks for the prompt response yesterday Chris. Saved me a lot of trouble. I ended up using a hand siphon and pulling a quart back out from the top.

 

As much as I respect Chris4x4 I have to disagree here. Gear oil needs to be up to the fill plug regardless how much oil you put in there.
Reason why is that fill plug is above the mid pinion bearings. If level is to low pinion bearings will be starved with oil, especially if you climbing some steep hill. There is a oil catch ring that supposed to keep some oil in but if level is too low it won't catch enough.

 

Chris 4x4 thanks for all the info you give on here,i have some how lost my owners manual but i will go buy another one and do the recommended fills, i dont do any heavy off roading,or climbing so ill try to fing the info on the correct manufactures specs thanks guys.

 

Not sure what you mean by that. Here is the quote from FSM

it needs to be 0 - 5 mm Regardless..
So if somebody puts 4 qt and his level is 10 mm below filler plug he still needs to add oil until its at least 5 mm. Its there because filler plug level is mid ring, half way for carrier bearings and slightly above that oil catch ring in for pinion bearings. if any of this guys run oil level 1 inch below the filler plug they will destroy their diffs for sure.
And if you remove qt from full filled diff that's where level ends up.