What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

This is an ebc kit I just installed. Haven’t got to drive it yet to get a good feel for it.

I’ll try and snag some more while I’m working on it today

 

Making some progress. Giving it about 30 mins a day after work. I suck at painting as well. Got the channels cleaned out (this step is a ROYAL P.I.T.A.). But the first one is nearing completion. Hoping to get an extension harness built (DIY) for the diode dynamics switchbacks so I can simply wire it with the adapters and not hack in to factory wiring, @daveeasa was a tremendous help on finding the correct connector to make this happen.

 

Not the OP, but yes on my ‘18 with the OEM TRD skid.

 

So, what are you doing exactly? Why not just buy the OEM LEDs and not go through all this? Genuine question

 

I'm a glutton for punishment. Honestly, wanted a few more options and save a little $$ (all in so far about $800). Wanted a different look as well. I actually prefer the look of the projector headlights with BHLM vs the oem LED as well. Halfway thru this project those factory led assemblies are looking a bit better though lol.

 

Looks like he’s doing the blackout mod. I don’t blame him OEM LED headlights are expensive. I’m looking to buy some used headlights I can do this with.

 

Exactly what I did. Purchased a good used set from a member on this site and got to work. This is a long, tedious process, and hope the outcome is worth it.

Also, wife likes this hobby better than me spending $$ at the range every weekend

 

I do every 7500km myself. Oil is cheaper than an engine.

 

I do filter every 5K miles, oil every 10K. Seriously doubt I’ll ever stress the engine to the point of synthetic oil breakdown. If dirt is the culprit then new filter should remedy.

 

Seems like a cool project then to keep you bus, and I’m sure have some great lights after. Ugh range time gets expensive quick and is over too fast

 

Yes, easy to install without removing the skid. Just leave the driver's side wing off until you get the shield attached to the forward cross member. Once everything was lined up, I was able to slot the driver side wing into place and tighten everything down. Passenger side wing should be attached to the shield while you're still on the ground.

I didn't completely remove the cross bars. Just remove the two rear bolts and one of the front and then loosen the other front. You can then swing the cross bars out of the way while lifting the shield into place (I used a small floor jack) and then swing the cross bars back into position to hold the shield in place.

The screws provided with my aluminum version are also aluminum. They are very soft and easy to strip the security-torx heads.

 

Been trying to convince the wife to move to a more rural area out of city limits so I can build my own range. Gets shot down every time (pun fully intended). Endless range time and endless ammo costs

 

Thanks, I already was going to try exactly what you said regarding leaving one cross bar bolt in place. Glad to know that worked. Thanks again!

 

Small stuff. Removed camper shell for third brake light recall retrofit kit install by dealer, polished out and painted a spot rubbed rawdog by the shell, and briefly admired the truck looking like a truck again.

 

Looks great! I have a spot on my front fender I have to touch up from a baseball hitting in causing a chip in the paint. How was the process with that touch up paint? I got the same paint from Toyota.

 

Got the rear differential fluid changed today. I was planning on changing it after changing the transmission fluid last week but the fill bolt for the differential fluid was rusted on. During the week I banged on it with a hammer a couple times and sprayed WD-40 on it each time. This morning it came right off as well as the drain bolt. Three quarts of fluid came out and three quarts of full synthetic fluid went back in. This was great because my transmission took a half quart more fluid in than came out. I was going to take a picture of the sludge on the drain plug but the paper towel that I cleaned it with got messed up with a small fluid spill. At least there were not any metal shavings on the magnet like my transmission had. One of the reasons for doing this now with 54k miles is because I saw a you tube video of someone with only 15k miles whose differential fluid came out almost black. Mine was only a little darker than the new fluid. All in it took less than an hour for an old man. Easy peasy.

 

Thanks. The Barcelona Red touchup paint is OK but sometimes comes out flat and other times sparkly for the metallic. Many people on TW find the color match of Dr Colorchip to be better. I’m also not that skilled out applying it. But here’s a tailgate scratch from bike handlebars I filled in. It blends at some angles and not others at 5’; From a foot or two it’s more obvious.

Here’s a shot of the rub spot I did up close and mentioned earlier. It would look less translucent if I used a primer first, but my truck is so scuffed everywhere I’m not super concerned about that level of aesthetics beyond preventing rust.

 

Yep, the culprit here is the filter. I read somewhere that a normal oil filter starts bypassing around 3-5K miles so now all the gunk gets distributed inside your engine and NOT filtered out. Yes, the newer synthetic oil will last 10K miles no problem but that filter gets clogged and starts bypassing and if it isn't changed often then your engine will have premature wear. Kudos for Synthetic oil; Had a Jeep Cherokee for 19 years. It was a loss leader sale back in 1996 and I drove it off the lot for $14K. Had a 4-cylinder engine. I had used Synthetic oil from day one and about the time I sold it I looked inside the valve cover to see how things looked. I am older and remember the sludge days inside valve covers. Guys the head was so clean I could still read the stampings in the head from the factory.

 

Got my alignment fixed by a dealer that does lifted trucks. Feels much better now

 

Looks good, my truck is “super white” so I don’t think I’ll have to worry about the metallic issue but it’s in an obvious spot so I’m hoping for decent results…if not I may have to place a strategically located decal. I’m more worried about corrosion forming on the exposed metal. There is already a small amount of surface rust, which is to be expected living in rainy Washington.