Tiffany the Taco

check this out, came across this connector while adding your list to my Amazon cart.

$13 Michigan Motorsports MR2 3 Pin Alternator Adapter Round To 3 Pin Oval Plug Harness Fitment for Toyota Vehicles

https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Mot...e30-410f-aa7a-ff41093fc12d&pd_rd_i=B07SV4VQD7

 

That would adapt a Toyota alt onto a different vehicle, wrong gender plugs.

 

Ok. I get it now, btw your list is coming in today. weekend project alternator upgrade.

 

The pulley on the altenator should be a 5 groove pulley , correct?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1542667288...MIqenosYv--gIV8SStBh0OGQZZEAYYBCABEgJrlPD_BwE

Link to a harness I believe will work for this upgrade.

 

Had my 2.0 Sway-a-Way coilovers rebuilt by Brandin @Mynameisbrandin in New Braunfels. He changed the compression valving to make it softer for on-road driving. I also had him swap in 550# springs to replace the 650# ones that came on the SAWs.

The results are amazing. For my truck with the 4cyl and no extra weight up front, 550# springs feel perfect. I didn’t lose any ride height with the preload set at the same spot. I did a lot of research and learned that stock Tacoma coils are somewhere in the 550-575# range. Ideally I would get 575, but no one seems to make that spring rate.

 

I would like to knows how you wired it up to the defrost switch? Mine is a 2003 may not be the same location.

 

I just looked at the wiring diagram for 2003 and it is not as simple. Based on the outline of operation, the DEF wire sees voltage in both directions (switching from DEF to FACE and FACE to DEF).

"AIR VENT MODE CONTROL SERVO MOTOR OPERATION When the ignition SW turned on, the current flows from GAUGE fuse to TERMINAL 2 of the A/C control assembly. (Switching from DEF to FACE) The current flows from TERMINAL 17 of the A/C control assembly to TERMINAL 4 of the air vent mode control servo motor to TERMINAL 8 to TERMINAL 21 of the A/C control assembly to TERMINAL 25 to GROUND. The motor rotates and the damper moves to the FACE side. When the damper operates with the A/C SW at FACE position, the damper position signal is input from TERMINAL 8 of the servo motor to the TERMINAL 21 of the A/C control assembly. As a result, current to the servo motor circuit is cut off by the A/C control assembly, so the damper stops at that position. (Switching from FACE to DEF) The current flows from TERMINAL 21 of the A/C control assembly to TERMINAL 8 of the air vent control servo motor to TERMINAL 4 to TERMINAL 17 of the A/C control assembly to TERMINAL 25 to GROUND, the motor rotates and the damper stops at that position."

I'll have to think about it more, but it doesn't seem like there's a simple way to trigger it off that wire (Y-B). You'll need to test with a multimeter to confirm what happens on that wire as well as the G-B wire.

I'd suggest just getting a separate defrost switch or a heated mirror switch.

 

If I use a heated mirror switch then I have to time it somehow. I do have a OEM toyota one that I can use for this retrofit.

 

You don't need to time it, mine just stays on if the defroster is on.

 

Figured out why my elocker wasn’t working. Looks like moisture got inside and corroded everything. I carefully took it apart and cleaned everything and it works again! I made sure to reseal it so hopefully this doesn’t happen again.

 

Randomly scored a bedrug on Craigslist for $10. I’ve been looking for one for years since they are discontinued. It’s dirty, but seemed to be in good condition. I’ll have to clean it up this weekend.

 

Swapped out my aging and paint flaking OEM chrome door handles for T1A metal ones. The swap is pretty easy, just remove the door panel and (2) 10mm head bolts. There are 2 rod clips, one comes off easy like the inner door handle, the other one is nearly impossible to remove without breaking. The nice thing is the T1A new handles come with the plastic clip, so just destroy the original one.
https://amzn.to/3TOjV7P
https://amzn.to/3S0qMJK

 

My leather wheel skins steering wheel cover finally started falling apart. I decided to go with redlinegoods since they make a cover that goes over the spokes. I ordered their color samples and it seemed like saddle brown was the closest match. All the other tan colors were too light. I feel like it’s a closer match than the wheel skins. Also it’s less noticeable in person.

 

Sorry to revive this old post, but where did you find all the mounting points for the wiring coming from the e-locker motor to B1 under the DR seat?

 

On a stock install, the harness merges with the main harness at the frame rail near the driver rear tire. I just made my own harness and zip tied it to the main one.

 

So if my truck is pre-wired up front for the 4x4 ecu and the switch, I should just be able to find where the R diff connectors plug into the frame connector and connect it, correct?

 

I'm not sure exactly. The wires run through the BN4 and or BN1 connectors. You will need to check and see what wires are in your connectors. If you look at the wire harness near the rear axle and you see an elocker hardness plug end, then you should be able to just plug it in.

 

I installed some 4XInnovations sliders a while ago. I don't ever plan on using them as sliders since I don't really go on trails. BUT, they work great as steps to get to the roof as well as preventing door dings from inconsiderate people in parking lots. I welded these with a Primweld TIG, which was definitely a challenge on the frame.

 

I went down to North Padre and Mustang Island over the weekend and did some SUP surfing and driving on the beach.