TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

The current lubrication system and setup is pretty bulletproof as it is. When do you hear about supercharger drive gears wearing out? On our setups, never. Those gears will wear out long after our trucks have been either sold, junked out, or crashed, so wear protection is really a non factor here. I think the main selling point of this would be drag reduction, but given how little the current oil for ours and similar setups is used, I really don't see it helping a ton.

If someone wants to try it out and be the test dummy and prove me wrong with a notable SOTP gain, then I'll be happy to add it. Given that it's not endorsed by any of the major manufacturer players currently and there is just no data on it at this current moment outside of the mfr themselves, I am reluctant to add it as of yet.

 

Any fresh oil is better than 75k old oil, right?

 

Yes on the modified TRD supercharger tune. I don't know the specifics of the calibration ID or what changes or stays the same. All I was pretty certain of was that my truck was going to pass the emissions portion of the test. And that I did my best on concealment for the visual portion of the test.

My TRD Gen1 intake is the one that is made by aFe and comes with the intake lid stamped with AFE. I've always used the TRD lid made by @Coupe for the aFe intake system and I'm pretty sure the smog techs just assume that it's part of the TRD supercharger system, which comes with the CARB EO#.

 

I'm totally fine with this as passing (and I plan to continue to keep my truck CARB legal even though I'm not in CA), it's the cat removal and such that actually increases emissions that I find questionable. an ECU calibration to reduce how rich the TRD tune is should be encouraged by CARB (at the "risk" of the owner running lean).

I get it though, after the whole VW scandal, where an ECU is smart enough to tell that something is watching on OBDII / CANBUS it reverts to the EPA-approved tuning, but then when it's not being watched, all hell breaks loose and it is just spewing crap all the time... To enact a catch-all law like the calibration ID one makes sense.

 

bummer to hear but glad someone will take it.If i had an older tacoma id be all over it.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Much appreciated, thanks.

 

Given this thread sees more of the practical, reasonable, and advanced performance folks than the rest of the entire forum, I have an opinion question for you all... what brand and weight gear oil do you like to run in the differentials? I have the need to drain both front and rear diffs... looking for opinions on synthetic vs standard, high end brands vs basic, and the lower weight vs the heavy weight stuff. For reference, 2005, 170K miles, ARB diffs in both axles. Shop did the upgrade work about 50K ago and I don't know what fluid they used and they are not around anymore to ask. I had to pull my front axles for re-boot, and going to be taking the rear axles out as well so need to change the oil in front and rear. Might just drain the transfer case and do that while I'm at it, depending on the responses. Thanks in advance.

 

Redline heavy shockproof or 85-140 Lucas if on a budget are what I would go for.

 

Here's ECGS' opinion on the subject since their experience in this field/area is extensive. Take it for what it's worth in helping you make your decision. I would think the weight of the gear oil will ultimately depend on climate, environment, usage of vehicle and maintenance schedule. Good luck.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation1.pdf


(I use Lucas non-syn 85w-90 in the rear diff. I don't tow, my truck isn't weighed down, and I live in a moderate climate.)

 

for regears, places like ECGS recommend Lucas Dino. That is what I run now I used to run Mobile 1, or Amsoil but have kept my warranty up and just stick with Lucas which is solid. For the transfer case I use the Toyota spec (supposed to have a different formula)

 

85-140 Lucas dino - synthetic is not needed.

 

Thanks fellas, all of your info is basically the same.. and is what the PDF from ECGS recommends. I think I will look into Lucas 85-140 dino oil. I am in the southwest, so not extreme cold by any means.

Edit: Would you use the same in the transfer case, or since there is no actual gearset in there like a diff, would you use something else as @nudavinci64 has suggested? Maybe something thinner, synthetic is better there so the 4wd actuator and low range work better when cold? just thinking outloud...

Edit #2: Anyone know off hand how many quarts are required for a front and rear differential? and what about transfer case? Can look it up but I figure you guys probably know how much needs to be purchased off the top of your heads...

 

5 quarts will take care of both diffs.

I use Lucas 80w-90 (I think) synthetic in my transfer case. 3 quarts, IIRC.

Last time I bought gear oil, I ordered it from O'Reilly's - free shipping to the house, and 10% discount. Check for their ads.

 

I run lucas as well in my trucks.

 

seems the consensus is to use something different in the transfer case. I see Lucas has synthetic in 75w140 and 75w90. Thinking that since I am heavily loaded, and in generally hot climate, the 75w140 synthetic in the transfer case, 85w140 dino in the diffs. Any opposition to this? I guess the 75w90 wouldn't hurt either, that is probably more aligned with what the factory used...

 

I have kept with the Toyo spec, which is supposed to be slightly different but close to 75w90. I can't recall, but I read somewhere that it's good to have it since it has some additional properties.

 

I think Ams Oil does a better job for those colder temps compared to Redline.

 

i run the redline shockproof too. did in my old truck and its held for 20 years.

 

I know the GM track crowd runs AMSoil in their diffs. It's actually been proven by them to lower temps by like 10- 12 degrees or so over other oils so for whatever that's worth.