transmission fluid (change vs dropping pan)

Manual says 100k miles for trans fluid change but want to do it at 60k miles since I tow my camper from time to time. I noticed that many of you do this service pre 60k but unfortunately I can't go back in time so this is my best option.

Question:
What is the overall consensus on fluid drain vs dropping the pan? Also what is the recommendation for me now at 60k and going into the future. If I do a drain I will definitely do it three times. Thanks for the info.

 

I'm a third pedal guy so no first hand knowledge, but if dropping the pan gives you access to a filter you can change, I would drop it. Otherwise it probably isn't worth the trouble.

 

Why is it that the dealer will do fluid change with their pump but nobody here likes that method?

 

Dropping the pan and changing the filter is not too hard. That being said I won't waste my time on it again. I did wipe down the pan and all, but was actually fairly clean on both 2015 and 2021.
On both I did do drain and refill 3 times when first changing. On 2021, which runs hotter, even when not towing and with same size extra tranny cooler, I've now gone to the spill and fill about every 15k miles. I'm only getting about 2 1/2 quarts when doing so full change will be about once every 75k miles, which considering the standard op temp on 2021 is about as far as I want to push it.

 

Because there is a perfectly good drain plug. No reason to buy a pump when a wrench you already have will do the same job.

 

The benefit of dropping the pan is a visual inspection for big wear metals.
IMO, those should be your choices; to drap the pan or not
Do a full fluid replacement(drain/fill x 3), regardless.

 

Drain and fill 3 times??? Yall think its still 1970 or something? what a waste of time

 

partially price but mainly that I know the job is getting done right. fluid changes can easily be lied about. Although I do find it highly unlikely that a dealer would not do the right thing who knows about a worker trying to cut corners. If the dealer did an actual flush I would consider it, but they are going to do the same exact thing that I am going to do (at least according to the dealer I spoke to locally, if anyone knows of a dealer on Long Island that actually does a proper flush let me know).

 

You only get a small amount of fluid out from the 3rd gen tranny so doing it three times will be almost a complete change.

 

• Pumping would basically do a complete fluid flush, which also includes the cooler and lines.
• Flushing 3 times would do the same, but with more waste.

Are there any other benefits for using the 3x method to warrant the time, money, and oil waste?

 

Do you have the service manual? There's a gear cycling procedure between the drain and fills...

 

It's roughly the same amount of fluid.

One is a factory approved service method.
The other is a dealer and shadetree mechanic expedient method.

You going to walk OP through it and accept liability should something go wrong?

 

My neighbor is a 35 year Toyota Master Mechanic and will do my services after his shift in the bays. He only charges me for parts and I repay his kindness by filling his freezer with fish from Baja three times a year. I used to do my 03 Tundra drain/fills but it had a dip stick to easily refill. I must be getting soft in my old age!

 

I just paid the $260 and had my dealership swap the fluid@60k. Toyota WS fluid at my dealership was $18/qt so would have been that much to do a couple dran and fills and i didnt have to mess with it. Its also done by the dealership and on maintenance record JIC any issues arise in the future.

 

I don't understand your last statement. Why would me inquiring about benefits of 1 method over another infer that I'm giving the OP directions or a recommendation?

 

3 drain and fill(s) will get you about a 60% new fluid. It’s diminishing returns.

 

I read it as more than inquiry; more as compelling.
If your going to sell it, own it all the way.

 

Right...

 

The value is actually 72% replacement for three cycles using 12 qts total new with 4.2 qt of that wasted. Diminishing yes, but the machines are worse. That assumes 10.8 qt total capacity (with aux air cooler), 3.3 q first drain, a 4.0 qt fill and drain, 0.70 qt final overflow for level check, and 100% mixing. Add 2% to those numbers for a 10.2 qt system capacity (without the aux air cooler).

Nope. You do realize the 100% fluid exchange is total marketing BS right? The cooler return just dumps back into the pan and mixes with old fluid. All the machine does is a 1:1 ratio of remove and inject. Many just use two pumps with connected shafts, the old fluid at pressure through one pump drives a second pump injecting the new fluid. So working out the bleed and feed mixing math with 1:1 ratio of 1 fl oz increments, to reach 72% fluid replacement uses 13.56 qts total new with 5.83 qts wasted.

Every mixing problem is the same, it is more efficient (less waste) to do more volume in less cycles, than less volume with more cycles - continuous bleed and feed is the most wasteful.

So yeah, fluid cost is better with drain and fill. Now the machine, how much are those? How much does the dealer charge for that BS?. A wrench, funnel, and some hose is all you need for drain and fill - most DIY folks have that already, so zero cost.

TLDR: Drain and fill is more cost effective, period.

 

Just drive it until it blows up, most likely it will get stolen, totaled in a wreck, frame rots away, or you will roll it while beating the shit out of it on some trail. If it happens to survive long enough that you finally need a new transmission, then just buy one or rebuild it.

Hence totaled Toyota Tacoma, still runs, transmission and drivetrain all works fine.