6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

I bit the bullet and started ordering the FJ pedal parts and Tilton items to do this swap. My TOB started making a horrible sound this week so it's not long for this world in current form. @Kasbien if you have your custom swap parts available I would gladly purchase a set and help with any additional R&D needed for this project.

 

@Rezkid where did you find the Tilton parts? They are backordered at Summit until next month, I'd love to get these parts sooner than later, thanks!

 

Purchased from Summit but they did say that the HRB setup would be shipping from the manufacturer. Also I did end up having the get the 62-612 piston from Jegs as Summit showed it to not be available.

 

New parts! Exciting! (Not in the sense that your bearing is failing though )

Bear with me. I'm just as impatient as the rest of you over this little kit project getting off the ground finally. Lathe parts should be here this weekend so I can make the quill spacers and start bundling kits up.

 

Highly advisable to order in advance because I think Tilton is still feeling the supply chain issues. Summit or Jegs is your best bet as most smaller independent Tilton dealers likely don't have these specific parts readily available. Kirk from Tilton actually directed me to Summit when I asked to order through him directly.

 

All good and no rush, if Summit's estimate is correct the HRB won't be shipping until early next month.

 

So given the fact that there is potentially the need for a different master, would it be beneficial at all to upgrade to the FJ master over the plastic factory unit? Or should we be looking into something from a Hilux/Hiace application?

 

Well, as I was saying before. A different master is not needed. It will be more of a “enhancement” I’ve been driving on this setup with an OE master for a long time now. It works fine.

If you are going to do the FJ pedal, and you’re currently running the plastic master of the earlier 2nd gens, then I definitely suggest using the FJ master as well. It comes with its own clevis (plastic) but, will work fine.

I was just all about eliminating plastic b.s. when I was doing my pedal. That’s why I made my own metal clevis.

 

when i did my FJ pedal i also was going for all metal and no plastic parts including the master cylinder clevis which in N.America comes with a plastic clevis only, it was necessary to purchase a MC from a 2008-18 Land Cruiser from a mideast parts supplier. this got me the metal clevis i wanted, and the only way to get it was attached to that Land Cruiser master cylinder with a different part number for something like $80. it's the same MC that we already have on our [3G] trucks with the same part number, so we were able to just swap out the plastic clevis for metal from the new MC and keep the original MC in place. so essentially that little clevis cost me $80 which is ridiculous but it eliminated all plastic and i got a new MC along with it.

 

Got it, I definitely plan on eliminating the OEM plastic master and going with the FJ setup.

PN# I found for the 3G trucks is a 31420-60032. I cross referenced that to a Aisin CMT-199 that shows be a replacement for '05-'21 Tacos as well as the LHD Land Cruiser Prado (120/150 Series chassis which is what the 4G/5G 4Runner/FJ/GX470 share).

 

No. you want a 31420-35070 from the Fj. Remember, you don't want the Tacoma master. It doesn't even have a "clevis". It comes with the ball tip deal for the plastic pedal.

 

I simply used the 31453-35010 clevis found on a gazillion older toyotas and extended that 22mm. Ended up being less than $20.

 

Ok, I see what you're talking about in regards to the pedal attachment between the 2. Thank you for the clarification!

 

EDIT: Thanks for clearing this up. This recent clevis discussion had me scratching my head since I thought you already devised a clevis solution.

 

Not sure what you mean here.

 

(See comment edit for improved English)

 

Parts are starting to show up, just waiting on the piston and threaded sleeve to really get going on this project.

 

Well, this is one group I never thought I'd be in....
The "how many times have you dropped your tranny this week?" crew.... but here I am.... thank God for assembly lube - makes everything come apart easier... thank you for this amazing write-up... only regret is that I didn't see it sooner. The Clutchmasters setup blew on day 2...I'll be ordering the parts from page 1 on Tuesday- PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE - if anyone has any input - I'd appreciate the feedback. Warning to any guests - don't be a naive consumer like I was. I cut my own quill off to avoid the "chirp", then I slapped on an "engineered fix"...strike 2 - .200" was supposed to be the gap for a twin disc clutch, but the Clutchmasters kit potentially over traveled, the packing seal felt hard as well, another reason it may have blown...on day 2

 

Seems like you are in the same predicament I once was. I had cut off my quill to run the URD set-up. To be able to mount the tilton unit on the bell housing without a quill, you’ll need to use that URD supplied mount. See post here :

 

Thanks for the reply GarciaV!
How did you secure the threaded shaft to the base plate? The reference with the nuns you saved is awesome, lol