Rust Prevention

They sell the attachment hoses to get in there

 

Link? I've tried extending the straw but the can doesn't have the pressure to push it after the straw gets past about 3'

 

Eastwood.com sells internal frame protector with the 360 degree attachment hose only works with there cans. I used their products and I've been a happy camper. Winter is coming .

 

This. I have a Mosin-Nagant rifle (ie not that complex in terms of nooks and crannies) and I am starting to think the residual cosmoline on it is infinite. I don't think you ever 100% get it off except by repeated boiling in fresh water (what I do w AK mags with cosmo on them)

 

I'll check that out. I've seen some universal nozzles with hoses but they always seem to be about 2' long, which is about 3' too short to get to the front of the frame.

 

I've been happy with T9 Boeshield.
https://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-T-9-Gallon-P5.aspx
Boeing developed it for use on planes. You can reapply it over the top of previous coats, it dries and from testing I've seen it is one of the better performing products. You can spray on with a bottle or I use a cheap airbrush with a little compressor to mist it all over to help get it into all the small spots.

I also use it on outdoor equipment like riding mower decks and blades for my Honda whipper snipper.

 

Yep, i later bought one to finish the tough to get spots.

 

When I had my 2010 I used to spray it myself. I actually used motorcycle chain wax (because I had a crate of it left over from my old motorcycle). That stuff worked well.

FWIW, I never qualified for a frame replacement with that old truck (and I live both in the snow belt and near the ocean).

With the new truck, I’m just taking it to my local NH Oil Undercoating place. They have all the equipment and I don’t have to crawl under the truck.

The debate will rage on over what method is “best”, but bottom line for me is any oil coating is better than doing nothing.

 

Stay away..... No RUN away from any of the WAX coating that harden on the frame. I Live in Southern Ontario Canada and its salt salt salt on our roads for 5 months a year. I have a Fluid Film type rust coating applied every year in Late September ( its better done when its reasonably warm for flujid migration into areas and no rain for about 2-3 days after application while it sets) and i flush my underbody really well in the spring. They actually did an initial coating of a thicker spray on when truck was new which cures to the consistency of Vaseline as a comparison. 5 salt filled winters and 140,000 km on my TRD Sport and no rust underneath at all. I chase down all my paint chips 3 times a year , spring, fall and summer so no exposed metal. Just make sure whatever system you get they spray IN the door channels as well The company i go to drills small holes they cap off and spray a thinner creeping oil inside the cavities as well.

Its a link. I clicked it . Its safe. Its just a report. No malware or anything.

 

I've used it to way in the past from spectro, but imo, it goes on way to thin requiring many coats to be effective at least here with the weather we get in new england.

 

FWIW, after I get the NH Oil Undercoating done (I’m not sure blend they use, but I suspect it is mineral oil and lanolin-based), I also periodically touch up the hitch and other exposed areas with cans of fluid film.

I agree, multiple layers are better than one, and one is absolutely better than none.

I ought to just bring my truck and a six pack of beer over to my buddy’s shop. He does commercial plowing and coats his fleet every fall in his shop. He has all the gear and a lift to let the job get done the right way.

 

A friend of has his diesel duramax done by them every fall. It must be similar to fluid flim as it doesn't last more than a year.

 

Just keep an eye underneath every so often and reapply. It goes a long way. The are companies around that will apply it for you.

 

I live in NE Ohio and bought 6 cans at Drug Mart. I did the frame on my new DCLB with less than 2 cans.
It was around $8 a can and the cans came with those red straws that you can put into holes but they're
only about 4" long. I have enough left over to do touch ups in the coming years where needed.
I used to rust proof cars many years ago and was impressed with this products texture and
application. I didn't do any body panels yet, the frame was my main concern before winter.
I don't think this stuff will harden like black undercoating and that's good IMHO.

 

Had Krown coat the truck 3 days after purchase and the last two years have coated it myself with Corrosion Free Formula 3000 Rust Cure. The reviews are legit. 2 weeks ago I removed the spare tire to top up the tire pressure and sprayed that area that had not been done before.. I use 5 to 6 cans to do the job. Cost about $50 and 1 hour of my time.

 

If you did only the frame with 2 cans thats not nearly enough...i used 2 can's of cosmoline just to get at the inner sections of these frame parts, and another 2, or so on the outer frame using 2 coats on either. Idk what that stuff is you used, but you should make sure it heals itself if you get any dings. Make sure you coat the power steering steel lines, and any steel chassis parts up under the air dam, and engine shield where salt spray collects. Don't forget the spare tire/ chain, any steel rear bumper sections in there, and tow hitch.

 

I'm still playing, power steering lines is a good idea. I still need to find a wand to do the inner frame and from
the texture I think will heal itself. Removed the spare and did the mount and all crossmembers too.
On my '04 Silverado I sprayed an oil, kerosene mix with a garden sprayer and it worked good. I may do something like that on this inner frame if I can't find a better way to wand this stuff in there. I'm not nearly done messing around but on the frame I put it on pretty heavy.
The dealer told me the factory is coating the inner frame with something but I saw no evidence to support this.

 

I did some minor 5 minute touchup this spring around the perch's of the rear leafs...i might of miss a couple spots when it originally did with 6 cans...this stuff adheres like iron when dry, but stays waxy to the touch. The rest of the job still looks great. What difference from fluid flim i use to use. This stuff stays put. I still have a couple cans left over...even used some on my trailer thats held up well on the slushy salt covered roads up north.

 

Same here as for any factory rust inhibitor on the inner frame. Only thing i noticed when doing my truck was tiny bit of a light gray grease like substance on the bottom of the boxed in frame sections, but otherwise it looked like only black paint.

 

Couple things I'd like to contribute. I used the CRC rust inhibitor, Fluid Film and the PB baster Surface Shield shown above. I think they all "work". The Surface Shield is similar to Fluid Film as they have a similar smell and texture. The CRC stuff is thinner, more aerosol like, so it should creep more but it seems like it needs to be sprayed more to create that "creep" This may be an incorrect observation especially since it is in an aerosol can so maybe the bulk stuff would function differently. I like the Surface Shield for it's staying power, just as it's advertised. I put it on a couple years ago and I look from time to time and I see no signs of any rust.
One thing about these trucks that it seems Toyota has learned is they have opened up the frames "C" channel unlike my third Gen 4Runner which was also a "C" channel frame but was closed off with a thinner piece of metal on the inner part of the frame. This held in all those nasties with no way to get them out and if the frame drain holes got clogged, it was a breeding ground for rust.
I also don't see the needs to reapply the entire underside year after year. (if that's what people are doing). For example, IMO, if you get a nice coating in those inner frame rails, I don't think it's going to wash away in a year. Other places, like the rear axle area, brake backing plates, front suspension areas, might need more application, even more then what's specified.
Furthermore before I sprayed the rust application, I painted the problem areas with Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. Problem areas really were any shiny metals starting to show rust, like brackets, hose ends, bolt heads and exposed threads, etc. There's some spots under the rear bumper that were starting to show rust. I think I spent the most time in the area behind the rear axles and the leaf springs.
One thing I personally don't like about the "runny", shiny rust treatment is that I can't tell if an area might be developing a leak. The CRC is good in this area. I personally don't know how people can use used motor oil or the like.
One more thing, one area I just recently noticed the area on the corner of my hood right above the light. The paint started to bubble, obviously rusting from the inside. I sprayed the PB Surface Shield in there and water came out when it became displaced by the Surface Shield. Before this, my 4Runners and my Tacoma really showed no indication of any body panel rust. I think that's a Ford thing.
Oh and lastly, if anyone has any idea how to keep the exhaust flanges, especially the one right after the cat, from rusting into nothingness, I'm all ears.