5VZFE Turbo

Great to hear! I always stuck with 16PSI is about as far as the stock motor will go

 

That sucks for sure. I bet it was fun to drive before it grenaded though. At least there is some data to be gained from this

 

I got mine up to 23 psi in 4th, (with IK22's) before it blew.

I've got IK24's now.

How hot was it outside when he popped it?

 

No idea but he is in AZ I think so probably in the 90s. I don’t know the guy at all I just follow his insta

 

Green grass, green trees... too green for AZ.

 

I don't know the guy either. I don't know how he's treating the engine post tune. I can make a lot of assumptions but I will try to be on-the-level here. Anytime you pass 15 psi on the 5vz with stock internals every variable becomes that much more critical. I tune my own engine and can tell you the 5vz doesn't give you a magic pass because some tuner god fiddled your maps. I hope this dude was exercising caution and didn't hoonigan this motor into RIP-ville. You can sip from the boost gods but you can't drink it all post 15 psi. All I'm saying.

 

I “heard” he’s actually in Mississippi and outside temperature was in the high 90s and humidity was 90 plus too. Turbos don’t like humidity.

The back firing was not when the engine blew.
It was Back firing from the spark plug blowing out and apparently
he was running the wrong plugs for that much boost.
Skyler wanted to try and hit 420 hp as his goal and wanted to keep going.
They stopped at 415hp because of heat and humidity.

The engine cut out when he was driving home and the oil light was flickering on and off.

he was a few miles away from home and decide to keep going.

so the oil pump might have failed or an oil coupler for the turbo might have bleed out or possibly a spark plug broke.

Im sure we will get the rest of the story soon,

Regardless that sucks and alot of work to start over again and a lesson about where to stop adding boost.

 

You right you right. I was too focused on the truck to notice

 

Tuning for closed loop boost now. I had the target set at 10 psi with a 2 psi overboost cut. Near redline the wastegate would open abruptly and all boost would disappear. Since then I have fiddled with the base duty map, turns out that it was overboosting and at that point the ecu cuts the pulse to the solenoid to get the boost under control. When this happens, the ecu will not start controlling boost again until it reaches the control point, in my case 3-4 psi (I have the lightest spring possible in my wastegate so that I can dial the boost down in winter, it does snow a lot here and I want it tame for winter driving). Drove the truck to work today for the first time since installing the turbo, boost was stable at around 8 psi so more tuning to do. Might have felt the clutch slip on a hard pull so my question now is what clutch to buy? Installing the W/M setup in the next couple of days also.

 

Lce has a few clutches available rated at different levels. I'm running the "pro" rated at 300ft/lbs. Very drivable, no heavy pedal feel.

 

Shit happens, sometimes you blow an engine. Still the cheapest part of our trucks these days, I could swap 2-3 5VZs before I reach the cost of replacing the suspension haha.

 

Thanks for that. LCE is where I was looking earlier. Not too many choices out there. Probably go with the dual comp. The clutch in my truck is an Aisin replacement that has about 30k on it.

 

Also look into Spec Clutch. I had the stage 3 on my 1j drift car back in the day. Very durable clutch, no problems ever and I was always clutch kicking it.

 

I was going to look at another Marlin Clutch when my stocker starts slipping, loved the feel on my 3RZ truck

 

My clutch seems to be holding. My tach was acting weird for a bit and I saw it rise suddenly and thought the clutch was slipping. I may need a clutch down the road who knows. Boost is stable at just below 10 psi, and I am now setting up the PIDs a little at a time. Water injection is operating now also, I have it set to spray whenever the rpm is above 2800 and manifold pressure is 2.8 psi or above. Injecting straight water at this point. I can switch to water/methanol with a fuel correction table later if I want to. I really just want it as a safeguard and not to add power for now. Its got enough power I think. Haltech is the shit

 

Glad you have made such good progress and especially with the haltech, I'm running the adjusted table for methanol off a switch for temperatures above 65 degrees.
It does help a little.for the supercharger. Intake temperature. Now that fall temperatures are coming down in the evening to 60 degrees or so I will turning it off soon. I've racked up over 30k miles on the haltech and can't say enough good stuff about it. It is a challenge to tune if everything isn't perfect on one's truck.
The fall cooler temperatures are definitely giving it more kick.

My tach was acting weird when I first installed the haltech, it wasn't staying with the true rpms.
The fix for that was a new Ignitor which is on the passenger side inner fender.

 

The Haltech has been really complicated to set up but it’s capabilities are really good. I finally figured out my high idle issue, 100% a settings issue all along again. The thing is you really have to utilize all the available columns/rows in each table to fine tune to the fullest. The last two coolant temp columns in my idle table were set to 194° and 220° with the 220° column at 1200 rpm. My truck runs around 205° at operating temp so the idle was always at near 1000 rpm because it was too close to the 220° column. I added another column to the table set at 206°/800rpm and that fixed it.
Also the rotary switch is very nice too as now I can switch between boost levels and fuel/ignition maps whenever. Daily driving I have it set to no boost control so its using strictly wastegate spring pressure which is roughly 4 psi, and a leaner fuel map for economy. I have 3 other boost levels to choose from whenever some dork in a stock camaro with shitty sounding exhaust cutouts wants to flex lol
https://support.haltech.com/portal/en/kb/articles/flick-of-the-switch-ecu-control-at-your-fingertips

 

That rotary switch looks like a cool add-on option,

I’ve actually noticed my gas mileage is actually a little better with the haltech if I stay off the pedal because I can run in 5th gear so much easier now in the mountains with the new torque numbers in the midrange and not needing to down shift as much

any thoughts of getting your engine temperatures down a bunch with a different radiator and stat?

I’m running a 170 stat with a custom radiator and rarely ever gets over 180 degrees in the summer even when it s 100 degrees outside.
I know there are larger radiators available

 

I will probably start with a different thermostat. A new rad isnt in my budget right now. The turbo is water cooled which is probably adding to the temp also

 

I suspect you can lower your coolant temps quite a bit with just a t-stat.

I am running a traditional Denso replacement radiator with the 170° t-stat. With the jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position I typically see 160-165° on the warmest days.