Rust Prevention

Sorry to hear your hood is rusting from the inside. I think I'll squirt some surface shield in there while it's still new. This is the second post I've seen on that area of the hood rusting.
As far as exhaust flanges go I can't think of anything. Too hot for a heat resistant paint to last but I'm all ears on that too.

 

About all you can do for the exhaust is use 316 stainless steel hardware to make it easier to replace the system down the road. Other than that, seems short trips accelerate the rusting process.

 

Ahhh, the memories of Marine Disco and the merry go round bar!! lol

 

The Link is safe. the .gc.ca is a canadian government domain. The tldr of the article is Corrossion Free Formula 3000 is the shit. I have been using over a decade and always impressed with its effectiveness, non-toxic, staying power and continual creeping even after several years. While it seems to stand up to a pressure wash well, it will wash away in areas of wheel wash, control arms, etc... The Blaster Surface shield may be bringing some competition here

 

I'm just suggesting this as someone who works in corrosion prevention and control. I like all the suggestions simply because it's "something" to help prevent it. If you're a navy person, you know that we want everything hot dip galvanized. If not that, we want cathodic protection for anything underground or in water (look it up, it's what we do for pipeline and ballast tanks). Anyway, the next best thing to use other than those previously mentioned imho is a high zinc concentrate spray that will self sacrifice for the frame. Kinda like hot sauce, I use that sh!t on everything! lol. High concentration of zinc is proven and used in paints to "self heal" even. You don't need to cover everything (that's what your fluid film is for). But it will protect what you have. Suggest you use this as a coating in the frames first and then use the fluid film after.

 

Looking at the SDS for Surface shield, looks like the youtoober is slightly inaccurate in his description of the product. It is somewhat lanolin based but also a little bit of everything. The base oil is just a viscous petroleum based oil.




IN comparison, Corrosion Free is only one thing.

 

This is the 3rd recent post I've seen on this issue in the same spot. Isn't rust perforation warranty 5 years? I'd call the dealer.

 

whatever you do don't go near that Ziebart rubberized crap. Stick with some sort of yearly flim spray , fluid film or whatever. In spring flush the underside of the truck and do it a few times over summer to get rid of any dirt or road sand buildup that can hold moisture and promote rusting and more concerning, salts from winter. Then have the oil spray/ rust proofing fluid film re-applied in Fall again. Do it when weathers warm and the film will creep in every nook and cranny.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXvl9nt57Kg

 

take a can of your preferred corrosion protector, and spray into EVERY DRAIN OPENING, around the perimeter of the hood, paying close attention to the very front leading edge. when water gets into the back side of the hood frame, the front edge, is the lowest part, and all the draining water will accumulate there. that, and the front edge has multiple holes to allow rain, wash water etc, into the front leading edge of the hood. all it will take is one void of missing paint to start the rust process up there. Ski

 

If you can find the paint can sized units they are easier to apply. Paint brush or roller. Almost zero drip or mess

 

I've used a similar high zinc spray years ago on a truck. It was very expensive vs cosmoline and didn't hold well. The constant spray of slush, and salt at highway speeds peeled it off. I've tried lots of stuff, but this cosmoline rp-342 wins hand down.

 

Don't get a one time application, see below.