The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

What's the argument?

 

Is it worth the extra cash to REM/cryo your 5.29s or not

 

“Worth” and value are highly subjective. It was more about the statement of cryo/REM do nothing which is very objective.

 

If this is about me using the word "nothing" a little too loosely, I'll take that heat. Bad phrasing. Clearly what I meant was that ECGS is backing the parts and labor for 5 years, have no reason to tell customers NOT to do REM/cryo other than saving them money, so it doesn't seem like a good use of my money. For the record I pushed the sales guy a few times on this and he kept telling me I was wasting my money if I cryo'd the gears.

No one disagrees that the treatments "do something", the question is about the value of those treatments as it relates to the application.

 

x3, obviouly even worse with a 15' canoe strapped to the bed racks lol

 

My understanding is that the main reason for REM is to avoid having to perform break in. To me, break in is nothing REM polish is a waste. Cryo treatment strengthens the metals. Cryo is worth it if you see yourself putting the gears in to extreme situations constantly. If you have the money to do this process, I'd suggest it, especially for the rear diff as it is the work horse. There is only a handful of cryo treatment places that I think would do the job correctly. I have contacted some local places here, and they don't seem to know the process, so if you want cryo done, you'll have to ship the parts off. That is, unless you're local to these good places.

 

I personally disagree with this given my limited experience talking REM polishing with ZUK. I do not claim to be a gear guru but I did talk extensively with ZUK who lives 15 mins from me & who set my gears and Harrop locker when I regeared. There is a reason ZUK advocates for rem polish & IIRC it was only about an extra $120 at the end of the day. If a REM job increases strength & durability & we are regearing our trucks for strength and durability especially in the rocks… it’s a no brainer. So glad I did it. ZUK probably knows more about gears than any of us and he is a huge advicate of REM polishing - probably for good reason. This man is a mad scientist

http://gearinstalls.com/JP_Harrop2017Tundra.htm


http://gearinstalls.com/index.htm

 

Notice I said main reason, there are other reasons of course, and not many folks take them in to consideration.

 

Ya its pretty low cost considering many are paying upwards of $3k-$4k just to regear without lockers so what's an extra $120 for REM or an extra $200 for Cryo.

 

I've got a stupid question

I'm reading a lot of people saying 5.29 auto and 4.88 for manual

I understand the MT 3rd gens are geared at 4.30 and the auto is higher like 3.90 or something.

Why would it make a difference to gear an auto or manual differently if that is exactly what you are doing is changing the gearing...

Is it the transmission that creates the difference?
Thanks for any clarification on this

 

The final drive ratios are a product of the differential ratio and the gearbox ratios. Basically compare the differences in gearbox ratios for 5th and 6th for auto and manual. 5th in manual is nearly the same ratio as 6th for the auto.

 

Awesome. Just want to make sure I understand this better.
I watched a short YouTube video of exactly the same truck as me with 285s and he was idling but crawling forward and even up over a small hill without any gas or effort. It was kinda nuts. Seems very low gearing. I’m wondering if this is daily drivable. I’ve heard most say yes.

 

It's working just fine for me. And yes 4lo is pretty impressive with the new gearing. I assume the video you watched was with the guy running in 4lo, right?

 

This I am not sure of. It seems to me that this video is just 2H to demonstrate the 5.29 torque.
Here is the video, tell me what you think since you actually have these gears and what sounds like a MT too
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/tBeZPt_DId4

That's also why I am considering the 5.29, is for 4lo. Just about every trail I'm running out here in CO I immediately go into 4lo. Makes it easier.

edit: do you have any videos of your truck in 1st gear 2H? Would you be interested in sharing any? I really am curious how these gears are and its impossible to tell over the internet. Videos won't give me the feelings of it but Id like to get as close as possible.

 

The video doesn’t show anything to tbh. What exactly are you looking for? You can compare rpm’s in an rpm calculator then just go drive those rpm’s. Won’t really be able to “feel” torque

 

it is showing a Tacoma with 5.29s walking up a mound. With no context, yes so the point of the video is lost.

I haven’t ridden in a Tacoma with aftermarket gearing so I guess I’m trying my best to figure out what I’m after without having to redo this again in the future.
Thanks

 

The jump to 4.88 for manuals is much smaller than the increase derived for autos. But some manuals do run 4.88 and tons of autos run 5.29.

If you're just wheeling in CO with 35s, go 5.29 and don't look back.

 

How many miles is the break-in period to change your oil in the rear diff? My installer is recommending 1000 miles before changing the oil. Paperwork from Revolution says 500 miles and so does everyone else. What do you guys think? Also do you guys do anything for the front diff during the break in?

 

Do it at 500. It's not difficult enough to warrant trying to wait to 1000.

 

Follow manufacturer guidelines