3.4L supercharger

Got everything installed and running! So far I've only got about 150 miles on it but I've got a few questions for those with more firsthand knowledge than myself.

My LTFT and STFT numbers before putting the blower on were +- 5 without a problem. I'm now getting a LTFT number around 14 at idle. Approx. 5-7 when cruising.

I believe this to be ok since the FPR is now boost/vacuum referenced and the computer should still be in a learning mode after the reset.

My standalone wideband shows a good AFR of 14.7-14.9 in closed loop. At WOT it instantly drops to 11.2-11.4 and stays there throughout the RPM range.

Timing is showing 15-18 degrees in boost and 28-32 while cruising at highway speeds.

16-18 inHg at idle. Making 5.8-6.2 lbs of boost at approx. 3100' elevation. Fuel trims get closer to 0 as the vacuum on the FPR approaches 0 when cruising.

Previous mods in preparation for the blower include:
-Motor West refurbished injectors
-Deatschwerks 255lph fuel pump
-fuel filter w/ <5000 miles currently

Many more things but none that should be directly related to fuel or air delivery.

Please let me know your thoughts and I greatly appreciate the feedback!

 

11.2-11.4 At WOT is ideal!

 

Which spark plugs and t-stat are you running?

 

Aah, my apologies.

The Ruthenium HX plugs (FR7BHX-S)
170 degree Toyota corolla T-stat
Been running the aluminum Koyo radiator for the last year. We'll see how it holds up I guess

 

Yeah, all good. Just thinking it through.

No fuel/timing management like a URD 7th or Megasquirt or perhaps a Haltech ecu?

 

Nope, stock ECU is running everything currently. I will need to get a methanol kit for cooling and part throttle enrichment most likely though. The stock computer is pretty dead set on keeping my air/fuel ratio right at 14.7-14.8 while in closed loop. Easy enough to drive around that but I'd rather err on the side of caution

 

Those are the ones I used. I do have a higher flow fuel pump installed in an attempt to pick up some of the slack on the flow rate of these.

With the stock pulley they seem to be working great so far. My guess would be that Motor West is covering themselves since there are people who push boost numbers higher.

 

@1997tacomav6, @Digiratus

I've noticed that if I go into boost below about 3000rpm that my A/F ratio's are around 11.5-11.8 but the higher up the rpm range I go the richer they become.

Still nothing to concern me, just wondering if you guys ever noticed something like this before you went the haltech route. I figure it's a combination of the upgraded fuel pump plus new injectors that actually flow how they should.

I've also noticed that at part throttle and without going into open loop that even though I'm way lean at 14.6-8 for A/F ratio I'm not detecting any knock. My ultragauge shows that the computer is pulling timing until it goes into open loop and then advances it in this scenario. I can definitely feel the power increase once that happens also.

I've definitely read a lot about how some motors like to ping and some don't but figured I would ask those with much more firsthand knowledge than myself lol.

I never scoped the Pistons when replacing the plugs but all my intake valves looked like this set when I did the injectors and valve cover gaskets. All I've ever used is Redline Fuel System cleaner in the past

Really feeling like I got lucky so far!

 

Not sure how helpful I can be, my first experience with the supercharger is with the Haltech.

And FWIW, in the Toyota OEM ECU world (and probably true for all fuel trim readings) a rich reading is prefaced with a minus (-) or negative symbol. A lean reading has no minus symbol in front of it. I couldn't tell from the way you wrote it whether it actually was a rich reading.

Do you run a wideband AFR gauge?

 

You sir are correct, I really messed that sentence up writing too fast. The A/F ratio is 11.5-8 and drops down to a richer mixture as the rpm's climb.

Readings from my MTX-L standalone wideband.

Fixed the original post

 

I’ve had the supercharger on for the last 25 years but didn’t start doing power mods till 7 years ago starting with a smaller 2.2” pulley and now I’m at a stand-alone and a 1.9” custom pulley.
Its been probably 4 years ago or so ago that I added the methanol and my AFR gauge,
So I didn’t have an AFR gauge on before the methanol so I wouldn’t know.
The methanol you can adjust your nozzle size and mixture and start spray time-to get a more accurate AFR for specific rpm areas.
But I was never able to make the open loop and closed loop section happy with stock ECU at the same time with consistent AFR so I had to find a happy middle point that was typically more rich around 10-11 giving up some power.
The stock ECU will constantly be changing the open loop window and is never the same place depending on lots of different factors.
Your saying your running richer as the rpm’s go up and that’s safer than running lean.
The smaller the pulley you go that equation will change and you will run leaner.
So if your wanting a better AFR number at higher rpm’s you probably have room to drop down one pulley size and your AFR will be more lean than the rich side you are at.
With the haltech I don’t need the methanol for fuel anymore because of the FMU and larger fuel pump, that combo and rebuilt injectors was the trick for me. I do have the methanol wired on a separate switch to activate it into the haltech program for cooling for days above 80 degrees and keeping my AFR at 11.5 or so.
If you run the methanol outside of the haltech program it will run rich.
The haltech keeps everything perfect and much better timing number and power on the lower rpm’s, it’s a game changer and
another rabbit hole

 

Ah, that makes more sense now.

Unfortunately the ecu won't stay in Open Loop and will force the AFRs higher (leaner) and pull timing. As John mentioned, this is danger zone for your engine.

This is the beauty of the Haltech. No more Open/Closed Loop crap and full control over fuel and timing.

 

That all makes sense.

I plan on adding a water/meth system before jumping down the haltech route but that's still down the road a bit.

My guess is that without having a noticeable detonation issue, at least for now, the biggest issue I'm looking to avoid with the closed loop lean boost issue is the spike in EGTs causing sensor damage/melting cats correct?

I'm sure there are other issues that would be caused by the excessive heat of running lean but those are the most immediate I can think of

 

For anyone needing one, the OEM Toyota 3.4L TRD Supercharger dynamic tensioner (OEM) is available (w/o bolt) from ToyotaPartsDeal.com for under $50 right now.
The part number is Part No.: PTR30-35041 TENSIONERWPUL 3.4SC
I just got 2 yesterday for $114.xx shipped.

 

My vacuum T that split the vacuum line between the boost gauge and the URD box broke yesterday. I thought it was odd that my boost gauge was reading 0psi consistently. Got it fixed up today with a brass fitting so hopefully this won’t happen again! I added some zip ties for good measure after I checked that it was working again.

 

Anyone selling a 2nd gen supercharger for a decent price?

 

I have a few of those on my truck and they work great, I actually went to get another one from Napa and they no longer carry them.
Where did you get yours from?
Ace hardware?
And if you remember the size?

 

I got it from Napa…

 

Just installed this last month 500 miles ago and a dyno done yesterday to show how well it’s working
Lean Issues?
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR,
FMU FOR SUPERCHARGER WITH STOCK INJECTORS, HALTECH,
A solution that works for me.

Vortech FMU INSTALLED

FMU are not talked about here maybe because others have not tried them or don't know about them

Here is some information for those that are having ping issues..

I have had my supercharger since new in 1998 and have over 700k miles on it. It came with the TRD FMU that replaced the FPR. The Trd fmu had a built in fpr in it also. The trd fmu is close to a 3:1 rise rate but it's not a very consistent FMU.
It has worked pretty well most of its life and has allowed me to run a 1.9" pulley with stock injectors and now a 340 AEM fuel pump and a haltech, But inconsistent fuel pressure.
I've never needed the 7th injector because I have the fmu for added fuel.
With the 1.9 pulley and stock injectors and stock ecu 340 AEM I had no ping issues at 6000 feet.
With the haltech I have no ping issues either with the 340 AEM, stock injectors and 1.9 pulley,
I have 40,000 plus miles with the 340 AEM pump, stock injectors and haltech running perfectly, no issues except inconsistent fmu pressure.
Trd fmu being inconsistent is one WOT AFR is 11.5 another pull same condition is 10.5, usually runs rich.

Gabe Salazar from snpspeed.com has been doing some testing on the stock injectors and he found an ideal high quality FMU and now has a kit with fmu, the precut fuel lines, vacuum line and clamps needed
This kit I got from him 500 Miles ago and I'm very happy and pleased with its results. I have added a dyno pull done today with the new FMU to see below.
The AFR from this FMU is very consistent now unlike the TRD FMU.
Trd stopped using the TRD FMU and rerouted the vacuum hose to the FPR coming off the boosted side of the supercharger giving the fpr a 1:1 rise rate. Unfortunately it doesn't perform as well as a 3:1 actual fmu unit hence some lean issues are found depending.
FMUs have been around for years and are active when boost starts.
If you have a haltech and want to keep the stock injectors because of emissions this is an excellent solution,
If your supercharger is pinging this FMU might solve your lean issues without 7th injector or methanol.
With any supercharger its highly recommended to
1) get your injectors cleaned because each one had a fuel filter,
2) new fuel filter
3) a high flow fuel pump,,
4) 2 stage cooler plugs

Alot of people don't do this and immediately think they need a 7th injector or methanol

An FMU will add more fuel pressure to the injectors once in boost 3 to 1 riase rate for this specific fmu and a 270cc injector becomes a 340cc with the add pressure as it rises slowly per pound of boost

Here is a flow test done by Gabe Salazar below.
Ideally you want larger injectors but the FMU can cover the spread for stock injectors.
For me the FMU over the last 700,000 supercharged miles has been a great solution for no lean issues without having to reinstall injectors for emissions.
My fmu situation that works is 6000 feet, 340 AEM fuel pump, you can use a smaller one, 1.9" custom pulley, injectors are stock that have been rebuilt.
Puts out 282hp and 305lbs torque at rear wheel.

Gabe Salazar is selling these vortech FMUs as he is an authorized dealer for them.
There are lots of fake, take offs FMUs available but with the original vortech you can count on the performance and quality,
Installation is pretty easy but the supercharger needs to be removed to access the stock fpr,
You need to replace that hose with the High pressure hose and the higher pressure hose clamps that are part of the kit. NOT a pressure clamp or screw type clamps. The new FMU is installed in series.
So if you're having lean issues at the boosted rpms this might be an easy solution,
This vortech FMU can be rebuilt and you can change discs for different rise rates

 

I’m on my original cat at 720,000 miles all supercharged so I’m not sure if that will be an issue as long as you keep your AFR in a happy spot.
You should look into adding an FMU if your having lean issues still.