TUNDRA BRAKE UPGRADE PROBLEMS?

Hi all, I’m a new member on the thread. I was able to find a couple of write ups for the upgrade it’s self but was wondering if anyone has had issues with the upgrade after install, ie… boosters, leaking, won’t hold pressure, won’t hold truck on descents on/off road…? Any info would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

Not really an issue, but knew ahead of time. I need to press the pedal further down, but found if I do a second pump brakes grab real quick almost an immediate halt. From years ago I think the issues is the diameter of the brake hoses. Other than that just remember the part number used, for future reference.

My son loves how it drives and having the second pump on the brakes. I'm good with it. Before this I had an issue with warped brakes all the time. BTW my son has been driving for 6 months and hates driving my wife's 2018 4runner.

 

I haven't had any issues with the upgrade, and most don't. The most common complaint of people who do "have a problem" is that the pedal feel soft, and then they wonder if they need a different master cylinder...

Generally, I find that those who say they have a MC issue generally don't. Instead, they have another problem and they are just parroting "MC" because they've heard it from others. The most common problems I've seen (in order) are:

1. The person did a poor job bleeding the brakes. It's really important to bleed the brakes well when you do a job like this. Toyota says to bleed from furthest to closest, so Rear Proportioning Valve, then RR, LR, RF, LF is the correct order. Do it until there is no air coming out, and then bleed about 3-5 more cycles.
2. The brake fluid is old. Brake fluid should be a very light honey color - almost clear. If it's a darker green or grey or blue - that discoloring means that it's saturated with water (which it picks up from the atmosphere). Water compresses (and boils) much more easily than brake fluid, causing that spongy pedal feel. Get all that old brake fluid out - which means bleeding a lot through each corner - and things will be a lot better.
3. The brake lines between the frame and spindle are the (usually old/original) rubber lines. With a larger volume of fluid in the Tundra calipers, it's important to reduce the amount of expansion of the lines when you press on the brake pedal. Using braided stainless steel lines and hard lines into the calipers (as the 13WL calipers were designed for) with the TBU is a really good idea. Here's a good kit that includes everything you need: https://adventuretaco.com/product/tacoma-to-tundra-hard-brake-line-kit/
4. Too much brake fluid leaked out when doing the upgrade. This is usually noticeable when the brake fluid reservoir is empty, but the problem isn't the empty reservoir, it's that now there is air in the MC and - if you have it - the ABS control module. Bleeding both of these components is *very* difficult for the typical at-homer, so the only real solution if this happens is to take it to Toyota, where they have special actuators that cycle these components during bleeding, to get the air out.
5. Improper bedding of the brakes. You'd be surprised how much this helps them grab. Here's how to do it: https://adventuretaco.com/guide/step-by-step-tundra-brake-upgrade-on-a-tacoma-or-4runner/#bedding
6. The rear brake shoes are not properly adjusted. These require brake fluid from the system as well, so if the cylinders there need to push further than "the right amount," they are sucking up brake fluid that should be going to the calipers in the front. The rear shoes are *suppossed* to adjust automatically with the parking brake, but a lot of times they get gunked up and don't adjust as they should. You can learn how to clean them (so the parking brake adjustment will work), and adjust them manually, here (note: you don't have to replace them, but the write-up covers that as well): https://adventuretaco.com/guide/step-by-step-tacoma-rear-drum-brake-shoe-replacement-also-4runner/

Lastly, I don't know if you've seen this write-up, but it has a great step-by-step guide (with pics) on the upgrade, as well as links to all the parts needed (at varying price points). OEM is best for the pads, but for the calipers you shouldn't pay the premium. Get them from your local parts store (ideally) or Amazon, which will give a lifetime warranty in case you ever need to replace them.

https://adventuretaco.com/step-by-step-tundra-brake-upgrade-on-a-tacoma-or-4runner/

 

I'm glad this topic came up again. I'll be doing it next week. The write up that @turbodb posted is super helpful and those are the instructions I'm following. I've got all the parts ordered, just waiting on the rotors to get here. I need to remember to bleed the lines waaaay more than I think they need. Also, need to remember the bleed order is RR, LR, Proportion Valve, FR, then FL if I'm not mistaken.

 

Soft brake pedal feel is not normal with this upgrade, no matter what anyone here says. I initially had a soft brake pedal but did a thorough bleed and it went away. I also used the correct hardlines and not the banjo connection to the caliper.

 

I bought my Rotors/pads from Toyota, calipers from NAPA and my upgrade kit from @turbodb no problems over here

 

No problems here. The 13WL upgrade was my first mod on my Tacoma and I'm reporting no issues after 3 years.

 

It sounds like you need to bleed your brakes some more. Mine feel just as good, if not better than my 345mm Audi brakes.

 

Do the rear proportion valve first, then do a backwards Z starting with the passenger rear.

 

Fellas remember rear brakes need adjusting from time to time, when installing the tundra brakes that would be a good time to adjust the rear brakes

 

Thanks, I had them bleed them out and new fluids. With the same results. I always thought this was normal, because of the brake line diameter. .

 

Nah, I bled mine at least 6 times. Always started with the rear load valve, then a backwards Z starting with the rear passenger. I had someone in the truck pump 3 times and then hold it the 4th time, then bleed, then do it again 3 times before moving to the next.

 

Unrelated.. my F150 brakes are squishy af. Stops in approximately 3.14159 football fields. Rotors rutted and warped too. Yes I'm ashamed of myself.

 

The rear brakes are automatically adjusted via the e-brake... What additional adjustments are you suggesting?

 

ehh, that auto adjusting don’t work so good, I find a periodic adjustment results in better pedal feel.

 

You should carry a boat anchor in the ford

 

This is great to hear, I just picked up 06 rotors, pads, shims, and fit kit from Toyota. And plan to buy remmaned calipers from Napa as well as the kit from @turbodb I appreciate your input as well! I’ll post the results here once I get everything in!

 

That's what I did as well. You can use your stock calipers as cores at Napa and get some cash back.

 

Or resell them to someone here to reman themselves (replace the seals). I wish I hadn't turned my OEM calipers in.

 

Good to know! Thanks for the info!