Allenfab’s 2008 5-lug SAS and LS swap

Whatever tire size you need to where you don't need a tent and can just camp under it.

 

I don’t really have a number in mind, kinda just gonna wing it and where it sits when the springs are put in place, is what it’s gonna be. 20” frame height would be cool though, if not an inch or two lower than that

 

Damn that would be nice. Are you going spring under?

 

Spring over. I’m going to do the rear suspension first since I already know what the height will be from seeing other trucks with 63s, then I’ll build the front to match

 

Haha, you took my idea for the OGT rear bumper and ran with it, I see.

I still have the steel, the receiver tube, and the shackle mounts. I want to do something similar with the OG4's rear bumper. Think I would go a little more outboard though to match up with the fender flairs and a a base to weld something to cover up the stuff the OEM bumper covers on the rear corners.

 

Back from vacation, managed to get all the old brackets cut off (minus trans crossmember). Got the front 63 hangers welded on, still have to cut and drill the shackles for those. I am going to have to get crafty to make some clearance for the steering up front with trying to stay so low

 

Sick pinion angle bro!

 

Gotta make sure that front pinion bearing gets no oil

 

Chevy 63s are done. Got the front frame rails all cleaned up and a 4x2” crossmember welded up that will be the foundation of the spring hangers, winch mount, and bumper mount. Ran out of 1/4” plate and welding gas today so I’ll have to re-up on that stuff this week. I’m going to have to figure out how to create 800lbs of shit to put in the engine bay to mimic the weight of the powertrain so I can set these front springs.

 

Monica!

 

Lol

 

All frame plating up front is done. @Timbo's Customs gave me some frame plates he had laying around so I used those and added to them so they’d go all the way to the front crossmember. I was able to push the steering box forward a ton and notched the bottom of the frame so a flat pitman arm will clear.

 

Bet not having a motor in there is making it so easy lol

 

Yea, it’s unbelievably convenient to not have a motor in your way lol. I might not build a truck again with a motor in it

 

Been incredibly busy lately so I have just been tinkering with the truck here and there, but I'll have almost every weekend free from here till next year so time to get back to work on it.

I managed to build some motor mounts and FINALLY get my knuckle back from Weaver Fab. I had him machine/drill/tap for a crossover arm and it turned out perfect. Very excited to stay with all GM TRE's with this build... at least for the drag link.

Also gutted some things from the engine bay that weren't going to be needed. ABS, assorted brake lines, Air Injection module, air injection pump, a/c lines (saving those for later), an other stuff were removed. Next, I am going to cut down the chassis harness under the hood to get rid of any wires that I no longer need, like ABS wiring, air injection pump wiring, wheel speed sensor wiring, and some others. I want this LS swap to look as clean and as "factory" as possible so taking my time with this one.

 

Frame notched for the frenched shackle mounts. I was able to get those welded in somewhat before work. I am going to cut off excess material to make it look better and plate/gussets a couple spots where the factory holes were in the frame...

 

Front springs are DONE! Reinforced the shit out of the frenched shackle mount, made shorter front hangers, and built new body mounts. Next up is removing all plugs and wiring under the hood that will no longer be used and clean up the engine bay, and then getting the motor and trans mounted

 

How come there's not a matching hole on the inboard side for the upper shackle bolt? I would suggest adding one and turning the upper shackle bolt around so the nut is on the outboard side which would allow you to drive the bolt out from the outboard side without having to figure out how to get something up in there to drive it out with the engine and exhaust in the way.

 

When you take the weight off they come right out like every other leaf spring bolt.