Help on a fix

Have any of you guys used Fluid Film? I used it near the end of replacing just about my entire suspension and that stuff is unique. I know some users have talked about using it to prevent rust by spraying the frame etc but for breaking down rust it seemed to work reallllly well. I am sure there are hundreds of products out there that do the same but it was just my 1st experience with it an seemed to provide good results, heck I have even went around the farm an used it on all my barn door hinges and after a few days its amazing what it does to metal.

 

Not to hijack the thread but yeah I had a 1987 Toyota pickup that was covered in fluid film. It came from New Hampshire and was religiously sprayed in fluid film twice a year. When I brought it out here to Arizona I couldn't believe how clean the frame was - the stuff really does work.

 

It applies to this thread totally in my opinion because we are talking breaking free rusted, broken and seized bolts. Sometimes something as simple as a spray can save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars! I am waiting to see how long it lasts but I can say hands down its worked where PB Blaster failed it just seems to take more time to work with whatever it does. I applied it to all my suspension bolts, leaf springs, lower ball joints, tie rod ends etc. I do take care to avoid bushings and boots because not sure how it reacts to rubber plastic etc.

 

Check this

 

Trying to separate a ball joint or something?

What's going on with the suggested fix of simply using a socket and wrenching off the extractor bit?

 

I honestly wanna know what socket he would apply to the extractor? I mean yes that is definitely the way to go but my brain is just not picturing what socket to use.

 

Ah didn't realize it was one of those bits; was at work this whole time.

I'd use locking pliers or something on it. An adjustable wrench like he has is supposed to be used but I always fear they round off anything they touch.

 

Yeah if there is one tool I hate its vice grips/locking pliers they round stuff off for me. That looks like a 3/8 in square end on the extractor. A crescent wrench wont hold up for sure.

 

I prefer something locking; then again probably cause I'm using vice grips and clamps all day every day.

 

A tap wrench isn't going to work for this... as you found out. You need an eight or 12pt socket of the appropriate size.

 

Is the extractor at its largest diameter bigger than the hole itself?

 

Those are the ones!! Thanks for sharing

 

also looks like these are an option too:

And might be easier to source (home depot, etc..)

 

Anything adjustable will not hold in my opinion with the force its gonna take I wouldnt buy anything but an exact fit. Thats just me though

 

I tend to agree... I have the previous ones pictured- they have worked great for me in the past.

 

Extractors for this heavy of an application suck in my opinion. They are good for lighter applications and good for HEAVY applications where machines can be used this right in the middle kind are just mostly unsuccessful from what I have seen an read

 

You got this OP. Take your time.

Also wouldn't be surprised if the other bolt is bent. I'd also be careful removing it. Not sure how the 5 lug setup works and if undoing the knuckle/spindle like you are will release the preload on the spring.

 

I believe what he is working on is already broken free from what I can tell but that is a VERRRRRY valid concern if not. That could make for a very bad day. Those strut coils scare the shiat out of me.

 

Ohhhhhh I see thats just one side thats broken so there is just one bolt supporting that compression right now!