Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

Anyone know if it's 67.5 or 67.75 for DCSB? Looks like we have two different ones based on this post and one found here on pg3.....
One Piece Driveshaft for DCSB 4x4

I was hoping to avoid pulling mine down simply for a number if we already had one determined, but looks like I might need to anyway?...

 

You're talking about a quarter inch difference. Remember, the drive shaft has a slip joint included in it that compensates for the suspension compression and expansion. Meaning, it gets measurably longer and shorter as the suspension cycles. My suggestion to you would be to measure the length between the rear diff flange and the flange on the back of the transfer case WITH YOUR TRUCK AT REST on level ground. Differences in lift will change things here which is why it's a good idea to get your own measurements for that one.

 

Go measure as above because length will vary slightly with rear lift you have if any.
No need to remove anything to measure the flange to flange distance just do bottom end to bottom edge.

 

I came up with 68.3/8" Hope they build in a bunch of room in the slip joint in case I'm off

 

Slip joints are only so long and they set them according to roughly what the compressed length and extended length they need to be according to your suspension. Thankfully leaf spring vehicles don't have near the arc as other suspension styles do.

 

https://pstds.com/custom4x4-b/

Precision Shaft Technologies

Maybe they have the answer for those persistent on staying 2 piece.

 

Didn't feel like reading thru 31 pages. Lol.
Do they have a one piece for a DCLB?

 

TW Rear
Toyota used Type A drive shafts, Type B drive shafts and 2 piece drive shafts stock from the factory. Please note we cannot build drive shafts longer than 75” also, we do not build or balance Aluminum or 2 Piece type drive shafts with the carrier bearing. We do not build drive shafts for 2wd and pre-runner vehicles.

As I found DCSB shafts run approx 67.5" range so you are too long, but get under there and measure as shown below and you will see.
Anyone every actually measure the DCLB shaft length as I'm thinking add 12" so close to 80"?

Measure for length
Figure 8: Measure for length. (See Below for chart on available flange patterns.)

 

I'm replacing the u joint behind the carrier bearing on my two piece drive shaft with a double cardan. Does anyone know the correct part numbers for the yoke and double cardan joint that are needed? My local driveshaft shop can't seem to locate any parts that will work.

 

did you find anything for this?

 

Nope, I ran out of time and had to get the truck back on the road. The shop replaced one of the u joints and balanced the shaft. The take off shudder is pretty much gone and there are no vibrations at any speed. The driveshaft was 1 spline out of phase (my screw up when I changed the carrier bearing). Moral of the story is make sure your driveshaft is reassembled back in perfect phasing if you take it apart.

 

Hey guys, I just thought of something and I feel like I'm the last living advocate for the 2 piece shaft on this thread. Do you think Toyota designed our trucks with a 2 piece because if you strike the tail shaft on an object then the force will be transmitted to the carrier bearing instead of the transfer case, which is expensive?? 1 piece seems better for schlepping around on highways and light stuff. However, a shim for the axle and a double cardon on the carrier bearing side should really take all the vibes out according to this thread. Having difficulty finding a drive shaft shop to make me one.

I contacted PST and they aren't making customs shafts these days unfortunately and actually recommended Tom Woods, but Tom only makes 1 piece... the universe wants us all to go 1 piece I guess.

I did read on TW that someone recommended thedriveshaftshop.com, no responses for my inquiry from them yet.

 

Make sure you steer clear of the shop mentioned in my post here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/single-piece-driveshaft-for-dclb.672397/page-4#post-23635684

Since I have a DCLB, I'll be forced to go the two piece double cardan route. Not that I'm complaining, since it has distinct advantages over single piece shafts. It's just more ass-pain.

 

I certainly believe a 2 pc with a DC joint at the center bearing is the ticket. But I don't want to have a reduction in strength. If a 1350 DC could be adapted I'd be all over it. I'm not certain if rotational inertia is a factor as well as radial bearing load on the transfer case output bearing to make the 2 piece the design that was kept. Seems the tank and crossmember could've been placed differently if a 4" diameter 1 pc driveshaft was Toyotas second option.

 

The drive shaft is a hollow tube though, which means that its the weakest part. The DC or Ujoints in general are cast I believe. I've seen pictures of wound up shafts like a towel. I can't imagine the DC failing before the shaft. If you're bouncing while crawling in 4L through a tough obstacle (which I would avoid), the front CVs or the shaft itself would go first. A 1 piece shaft sounds stronger until you bash it on a rock and it bends and starts tearing apart your body, gas tank, exhaust, and transfer case. Like wheeling a school bus.

 

Thread revival: where does one get a 2 piece made with OEM carrier bearing and a double cardan behind it like what the OP has as option #2 now?

 

If you have a driveshaft shop local to you, they should be able to fab one up and balance it. Here’s the parts list and quote I had put together for mine. I gathered this information as part of my pre-lift install prep, but didn’t end up needing to pull the trigger on it.

 

I thought drive shaft vibration was just something you delt with when you lifted your truck! Lmfao

 

Are your axle shims installed with the fat end forward or towards the rear?

 

Rear