New to Overlanding - Initial Questions

The TRD Lift is a 1" block in the back. I replaced the block with the leaf pack. All the quoted height increases from the manufacturers are from the axle.

A couple of other things I forgot to mention: 1) Longer U-bolts with the thicker leaf pack MAY be needed. The TRD lift has longer U-bolts because of the block, so you are probably okay using them for the leaf pack replacement. But it is recommended to not re-use u-bolts. I did a u-bolt flip kit with the DuroBumps, so I needed different ones anyway.

2) I also added a 3 degree angle shim to help with drive line angle. That may not be needed, but I read some people have vibrations at lower speed without shims. There are several threads about measuring the angles and figuring out what degree shim is needed. I just used a 3 degree shim and installed at the same time. No vibrations that I can feel at any speed or load out.

I ordered through Hotshot Offroad @memario1214 Colton was a great help in making sure I had everything I needed. Got the Icons, Durobumps, U-bolt flip kit and extended break lines through him. The shim I ordered through Toy Tec Lifts.

 

I have the icon leaf pack and love it!

 

Hey there, I'm curious about the vertical adjustability of that bed rack. Can you go lower than you have it in your pic? Like more flush to the top of the softopper?

 

As I have it set, it is about 2 inches above the softopper (to the bottom of the cross bar). It would definitely adjust down to sit right on top if the softopper. It could probably go down 3 inches, but that would obviously interfere. And it could also go up at least another 3 inches or more if you wanted. I am guessing there is at least 7 inches of adjustment in height overall.

I'm actually considering going up a little higher. That way I could mount some c-channel to the underside of the cross bars, and use that space to hold a table. Sort of like this, but a lot cheaper.
https://rebeloffroad.com/ROE-XBR-TS-LT-BLK

 

I'm really considering getting that bed rack but it's a tough decision at $1500. If I didn't already have the softopper I wouldn't even be considering it. Any downsides to the bed rack / softopper combo in your experience so far? If you wanted to remove the softopper and just use the bedrack is that possible at all? I know you would have to leave the rails for the softopper installed but could it still work without the canopy?

I like the idea of keeping the softopper on as it's great for keeping things out of the elements but I could technically save $600 and get the RCI 12" rack as well. I'm so bad at making these decisions, do you have any regrets on yours?

 

@tacoma16 will tell you all about his experience without bed stiffeners

 

So I originally bought an RCI 12" adjustable rack and brackets to go over the tonneau cover I had at the time. The rack wouldn't work with my specific tonneau. (Still have that rack I need to get rid of someday.) So I decided to rethink the whole thing.

Got the Softopper, which offers so much more room than the tonneau ever could, and the look is so much better. The RCI rack would not work with the softopper. The RCI does not have enough extension over the bed side to allow the softopper rails to fit.

The UpTop Truss rack seemed like the best option for adjustability, and allowed the softopper to be removed. Although the rack has to be adjusted up pretty high for the topper to fold. It may be possible to remove the topper with the rack low, but it would be a struggle I think. The height I have my bars set, are too low to fold the topper, and I have not tried removing it yet.

There are a couple things I don't like, but not deal breakers to me.
1) The sides stick out really far. (See pic below) The brackets that extend over the bedside could have been a couple inches shorter and made the uprights fit closer to the topper. So anything you mount to the sides sticks farther out. Not as wide as the mirrors, and you can see past them easy enough, but it bothers me. Especially in tight parking lots next to other cars.
2) The side plates are huge and would not really allow access to the softopper if you were in "safari" mode with the sides rolled up. I was hoping that I could access the topper over the bedside, from my RTT's annex, but that side plate would need to be removed or at least moved up high. I'm still tying to decide if I want bedside access, or mounting space. I can't really have both. But that would be with any rack.
3) I don't like that there is no connection front to back between the 3 cross bars. That front to back support comes from the side plates. Without the side plates the uprights could have some stability problems. (So I don't think removing a side plate for topper access is a good idea.) The RCI rack comes with 1 or 2 top bars that connect all the uprights together, in addition to the side panels.

Things I do like.
1) Vertical adjustability. Can adjust to match cab rack height, or go up or down as needed.
2) Cross bars are standard 10 series 80/20 extrusions. Easy to find parts, and accessories from other brands will work with slight modification.
3) Side panels are extremely versatile. I have mounted bike racks, traction boards, leveling boards, rotopax, fold down steps (in pic below) to the sides and they all work with little to no modifications.

In the end, I am really happy with the rack and topper combo.

Another rack I wish I would have known about, is the Xtrusion Overland rack. I love 80/20 extrusions, aka adult erector sets. https://xtrusion-overland.com/ You have to pick a height when you order, and can't adjust it. But that may be okay to some people. That may be a good way for you to go. It would be cheaper depending on the options you go with originally. Then add to it as you figure out what you want.

 

Fellow Utahn here. Bed Stiffeners in the back and a rack that has a front crossmember at the base like the C4 rack is def a benefit, or a 3rd party corner tie in solution. Definitely help prevent structural damage to the bed box. Good friend of mine had enough fatigue in the forward sheet metal that he got a tear in the outside metal starting behind the cab, around the corner to the gas filler flap. Rear had a noticeable gap vs new as well from bed splay.

 

Yup. My bed started to bow. Installed stiffeners but it was too late.

that taillight alignment though

 

So OP, ^ there ya go (bed on 2g is same as 3G).

 

I will say I had a heavier setup. Fibreglass contractor cap, steel rack, rtt, tool box inside the cap with battery system. It was heavy and I did drive agressively off-road (bumped up obstacles).

So my situation may be different then OP. For the price of the stiffeners and what not, I would get them.